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Radiator Support, Aprons
#1
Hey,

I messed up again. Rip and read. I should have read some of the tear downs before I started mine. I bought new aprons and radiator supports. I should have measured to the shock tower bolt holding the shock off of the back edge of the radiator support. Now I'm not sure where they are suppose to line up. I bought aprons not realizing that they are not exact. Does anyone have these measurement? Shouldn't they be standard? (72 Mustang) Should I use a square to make sure the aprons and radiator support are square?

I was thinking of using a few metal screws to dry fit everything in and make sure the hood fits and fenders. Did anyone else take this approach. I'm nervous about pulling in the radiator support too much. I think I may have the same issue as shown on Saturday Morning Garage video (which I think is great by the way). Some of the aprons may be too short. The old ones are all rotted and don't have much use as a measuring device. I'm afraid when I put the hood back on the twist locks won't line up.

Don't be afraid to start something you don't understand...you can always jump off a bridge later.

Chasing Rust
  Reply
#2
Darren 72;13919 Wrote:Hey,

I messed up again. Rip and read. I should have read some of the tear downs before I started mine. I bought new aprons and radiator supports. I should have measured to the shock tower bolt holding the shock off of the back edge of the radiator support. Now I'm not sure where they are suppose to line up. I bought aprons not realizing that they are not exact. Does anyone have these measurement? Shouldn't they be standard? (72 Mustang) Should I use a square to make sure the aprons and radiator support are square?

I was thinking of using a few metal screws to dry fit everything in and make sure the hood fits and fenders. Did anyone else take this approach. I'm nervous about pulling in the radiator support too much. I think I may have the same issue as shown on Saturday Morning Garage video (which I think is great by the way). Some of the aprons may be too short. The old ones are all rotted and don't have much use as a measuring device. I'm afraid when I put the hood back on the twist locks won't line up.

Don't be afraid to start something you don't understand...you can always jump off a bridge later.

Darren the best way to fit the rad support..frt aprons..is with the fenders on the car ..If you notice i didn't install the rad support frt aprons on my car yet..for that reason..(I can't get the fenders on till the car is off the dolly) You will need the bottom rad support brkts.. the lowers locate the distance of the rad support from the frt crossmember..Once you have that, you can rough in the rad support with the fenders & hood on..Then x measure for square from each shock tower (use one of the 3 bolts) to the fender bolt hole on top of the rad support.
As far as the rear aprons you need to install the hinge to the cowl extension & the rear apron... see what you get ,that pretty much sets where the apron has to go...If your drivers side is like mine was & short to the firewall then you have to do what I did & you will need 2 aprons to make it happen nicely..My passenger side fit pretty good just a little trimming on the back bottom corner to get to sit flush to the frame rail & the top where cowl lip comes through to get it far enough back to sit flush to the firewall You are correct mock everything up with a few sheet metal screws ...then fit the fenders & hood. Just so you know & don't go crazy when you line up the fenders..I have the factory assy manual..Shims are used at the lower 2 attaching points to the rocker as are they used at the top mounting points under the fender..Do yourself a favor, & get some 1/16" shims & some 1/8" shims...Trust me on that..

Scott


LOVE OF BEAUTY IS TASTE..THE CREATION OF BEAUTY IS ART
  Reply
#3
Darren, I am in the same boat. but, all that was already off when I bought the car.
I'm thinking that there has to be a common measurement from a shock tower bolt to the rad support..at least to get close.
Maybe someone with a good car will take that measurement for us.
I can't even find a set of lower radiator supports, but I think I could make something if I knew the distance between the front X-member and the rad support.
I am going to NC Saturday where a guy has lots of parts cars and I will measure while there also.
  Reply
#4
don29163;13936 Wrote:Darren, I am in the same boat. but, all that was already off when I bought the car.
I'm thinking that there has to be a common measurement from a shock tower bolt to the rad support..at least to get close.
Maybe someone with a good car will take that measurement for us.
I can't even find a set of lower radiator supports, but I think I could make something if I knew the distance between the front X-member and the rad support.
I am going to NC Saturday where a guy has lots of parts cars and I will measure while there also.

Snap me a picture of what measurements you need and I will take them tomorrow. Cant promise they are correct but they have not been replaced on mine.
  Reply
#5
don29163;13936 Wrote:Darren, I am in the same boat. but, all that was already off when I bought the car.
I'm thinking that there has to be a common measurement from a shock tower bolt to the rad support..at least to get close.
Maybe someone with a good car will take that measurement for us.
I can't even find a set of lower radiator supports, but I think I could make something if I knew the distance between the front X-member and the rad support.
I am going to NC Saturday where a guy has lots of parts cars and I will measure while there also.
Don, I guess you didn't see my reply to your post
http://www.7173mustangs.com/thread-what-...4#pid13604


Tnfastbk;13937 Wrote:
don29163;13936 Wrote:Darren, I am in the same boat. but, all that was already off when I bought the car.
I'm thinking that there has to be a common measurement from a shock tower bolt to the rad support..at least to get close.
Maybe someone with a good car will take that measurement for us.
I can't even find a set of lower radiator supports, but I think I could make something if I knew the distance between the front X-member and the rad support.
I am going to NC Saturday where a guy has lots of parts cars and I will measure while there also.

Snap me a picture of what measurements you need and I will take them tomorrow. Cant promise they are correct but they have not been replaced on mine.
Tn That will help too ! he needs from any of the shock tower bolts diagnal to the first fender bolt on the rad support...How's the e-brake & clutch going ?


LOVE OF BEAUTY IS TASTE..THE CREATION OF BEAUTY IS ART
  Reply
#6
Nope, I missed the post.
Still learning my way around this forum.
Thank you
  Reply
#7
Qcode351mach;13938 Wrote:
don29163;13936 Wrote:Darren, I am in the same boat. but, all that was already off when I bought the car.
I'm thinking that there has to be a common measurement from a shock tower bolt to the rad support..at least to get close.
Maybe someone with a good car will take that measurement for us.
I can't even find a set of lower radiator supports, but I think I could make something if I knew the distance between the front X-member and the rad support.
I am going to NC Saturday where a guy has lots of parts cars and I will measure while there also.
Don, I guess you didn't see my reply to your post
http://www.7173mustangs.com/thread-what-...4#pid13604


Tnfastbk;13937 Wrote:
don29163;13936 Wrote:Darren, I am in the same boat. but, all that was already off when I bought the car.
I'm thinking that there has to be a common measurement from a shock tower bolt to the rad support..at least to get close.
Maybe someone with a good car will take that measurement for us.
I can't even find a set of lower radiator supports, but I think I could make something if I knew the distance between the front X-member and the rad support.
I am going to NC Saturday where a guy has lots of parts cars and I will measure while there also.

Snap me a picture of what measurements you need and I will take them tomorrow. Cant promise they are correct but they have not been replaced on mine.
Tn That will help too ! he needs from any of the shock tower bolts diagnal to the first fender bolt on the rad support...How's the e-brake & clutch going ?

Not sure, slow to stopped. With the flash floods we had on Monday, things picked up around the garage from cars being flooded to include my uncles Dakota. But hopefully will see some progress over the weekend. Clutch is about the same, each time I ask, almost ready to test fit, same answer for two weeks now.
  Reply
#8
Qcode351mach;13925 Wrote:
Darren 72;13919 Wrote:Hey,

I messed up again. Rip and read. I should have read some of the tear downs before I started mine. I bought new aprons and radiator supports. I should have measured to the shock tower bolt holding the shock off of the back edge of the radiator support. Now I'm not sure where they are suppose to line up. I bought aprons not realizing that they are not exact. Does anyone have these measurement? Shouldn't they be standard? (72 Mustang) Should I use a square to make sure the aprons and radiator support are square?

I was thinking of using a few metal screws to dry fit everything in and make sure the hood fits and fenders. Did anyone else take this approach. I'm nervous about pulling in the radiator support too much. I think I may have the same issue as shown on Saturday Morning Garage video (which I think is great by the way). Some of the aprons may be too short. The old ones are all rotted and don't have much use as a measuring device. I'm afraid when I put the hood back on the twist locks won't line up.

Don't be afraid to start something you don't understand...you can always jump off a bridge later.

Darren the best way to fit the rad support..frt aprons..is with the fenders on the car ..If you notice i didn't install the rad support frt aprons on my car yet..for that reason..(I can't get the fenders on till the car is off the dolly) You will need the bottom rad support brkts.. the lowers locate the distance of the rad support from the frt crossmember..Once you have that, you can rough in the rad support with the fenders & hood on..Then x measure for square from each shock tower (use one of the 3 bolts) to the fender bolt hole on top of the rad support.
As far as the rear aprons you need to install the hinge to the cowl extension & the rear apron... see what you get ,that pretty much sets where the apron has to go...If your drivers side is like mine was & short to the firewall then you have to do what I did & you will need 2 aprons to make it happen nicely..My passenger side fit pretty good just a little trimming on the back bottom corner to get to sit flush to the frame rail & the top where cowl lip comes through to get it far enough back to sit flush to the firewall You are correct mock everything up with a few sheet metal screws ...then fit the fenders & hood. Just so you know & don't go crazy when you line up the fenders..I have the factory assy manual..Shims are used at the lower 2 attaching points to the rocker as are they used at the top mounting points under the fender..Do yourself a favor, & get some 1/16" shims & some 1/8" shims...Trust me on that..

Scott

Thanks Scott once again. I feel like I can pull this off with this info.

Ordering Rust Bullett and Blackshell in the near future. Are you going to put Rust Bullet on your new aprons and Rad support? If so are you going to sand blast the cheesy black paint that's on there when it's shipped on the new panels?. I can't remember what was on your video.

I noticed that Rust Bullet doesn't work as designed if you put it over paint. It's only as strong as the paint and can't adhere to the metal. I am going to put the Blackshell over the two coats of the Bullet inside the cowl and the front chassis. I was planning to use epoxy primer over the Bullet on the aprons and the top of the cowl and then paint maybe semi gloss. If the Blackshell looks good I may just do the whole thing with it after I put two coats of the silver grey Bullett on.

I agree with your philosophy about less money. The POR-15 has too many procedures and drawbacks.

Just looked in my Body Assembly Manual. I see what your talking about with the shims.

Thanks,
Darren

don29163;13936 Wrote:Darren, I am in the same boat. but, all that was already off when I bought the car.
I'm thinking that there has to be a common measurement from a shock tower bolt to the rad support..at least to get close.
Maybe someone with a good car will take that measurement for us.
I can't even find a set of lower radiator supports, but I think I could make something if I knew the distance between the front X-member and the rad support.
I am going to NC Saturday where a guy has lots of parts cars and I will measure while there also.

Hey Don,

Thanks for the reply. I just bought lower rad supports from Mustang Unlimited in CT. They are on line and have a decent catalog. 71-73 Models 1A193 at $32.95. I don't think they have the rubber insulators. I have had pretty good luck with them. They just let me return a kickdown cable that I purchased in Aug. So far so good.

Chasing Rust
  Reply
#9
Darren 72;13952 Wrote:
Qcode351mach;13925 Wrote:
Darren 72;13919 Wrote:Hey,

I messed up again. Rip and read. I should have read some of the tear downs before I started mine. I bought new aprons and radiator supports. I should have measured to the shock tower bolt holding the shock off of the back edge of the radiator support. Now I'm not sure where they are suppose to line up. I bought aprons not realizing that they are not exact. Does anyone have these measurement? Shouldn't they be standard? (72 Mustang) Should I use a square to make sure the aprons and radiator support are square?

I was thinking of using a few metal screws to dry fit everything in and make sure the hood fits and fenders. Did anyone else take this approach. I'm nervous about pulling in the radiator support too much. I think I may have the same issue as shown on Saturday Morning Garage video (which I think is great by the way). Some of the aprons may be too short. The old ones are all rotted and don't have much use as a measuring device. I'm afraid when I put the hood back on the twist locks won't line up.

Don't be afraid to start something you don't understand...you can always jump off a bridge later.

Darren the best way to fit the rad support..frt aprons..is with the fenders on the car ..If you notice i didn't install the rad support frt aprons on my car yet..for that reason..(I can't get the fenders on till the car is off the dolly) You will need the bottom rad support brkts.. the lowers locate the distance of the rad support from the frt crossmember..Once you have that, you can rough in the rad support with the fenders & hood on..Then x measure for square from each shock tower (use one of the 3 bolts) to the fender bolt hole on top of the rad support.
As far as the rear aprons you need to install the hinge to the cowl extension & the rear apron... see what you get ,that pretty much sets where the apron has to go...If your drivers side is like mine was & short to the firewall then you have to do what I did & you will need 2 aprons to make it happen nicely..My passenger side fit pretty good just a little trimming on the back bottom corner to get to sit flush to the frame rail & the top where cowl lip comes through to get it far enough back to sit flush to the firewall You are correct mock everything up with a few sheet metal screws ...then fit the fenders & hood. Just so you know & don't go crazy when you line up the fenders..I have the factory assy manual..Shims are used at the lower 2 attaching points to the rocker as are they used at the top mounting points under the fender..Do yourself a favor, & get some 1/16" shims & some 1/8" shims...Trust me on that..

Scott

Thanks Scott once again. I feel like I can pull this off with this info.

Ordering Rust Bullett and Blackshell in the near future. Are you going to put Rust Bullet on your new aprons and Rad support? If so are you going to sand blast the cheesy black paint that's on there when it's shipped on the new panels?. I can't remember what was on your video.

I noticed that Rust Bullet doesn't work as designed if you put it over paint. It's only as strong as the paint and can't adhere to the metal. I am going to put the Blackshell over the two coats of the Bullet inside the cowl and the front chassis. I was planning to use epoxy primer over the Bullet on the aprons and the top of the cowl and then paint maybe semi gloss. If the Blackshell looks good I may just do the whole thing with it after I put two coats of the silver grey Bullett on.

I agree with your philosophy about less money. The POR-15 has too many procedures and drawbacks.

Thanks,
Darren
Darren..DO NOT REMOVE THE CHESSY BLACK PAINT ON NEW PARTS !!! That is e-coating..It's a rust preventive treatment / semi type primer...All you need to do is scracth it up with a red scotch brite pad..You can do the whole enginge compartment in rust bullet /blackshell..I did my engine bay in epoxy primer (check the vid [email]http://www.7173mustangs.com/thread-friday-s-with-q-prime-time-video[/email] ) Because I'm not sure if I'm painting the engine bay the body color or blackshell.. I'm smoothing out welds etc in the engine bay so I prefer my plastic work to be done with the epoxy as a base...once thats done I can decide & then prep accordingly All inside the frame rails/ rockers is done with rust bullet...The underside of the car is gonna be 100% rust bullet/blackshell...You should do a "test panel" first before you commit to the black shell as your top/finish coat in the engine bay..There's plenty of other parts it can be used on..I just did the rear end using blackshell. http://www.7173mustangs.com/thread-rear-...hing-paint



LOVE OF BEAUTY IS TASTE..THE CREATION OF BEAUTY IS ART
  Reply
#10
Tnfastbk;13937 Wrote:
don29163;13936 Wrote:Darren, I am in the same boat. but, all that was already off when I bought the car.
I'm thinking that there has to be a common measurement from a shock tower bolt to the rad support..at least to get close.
Maybe someone with a good car will take that measurement for us.
I can't even find a set of lower radiator supports, but I think I could make something if I knew the distance between the front X-member and the rad support.
I am going to NC Saturday where a guy has lots of parts cars and I will measure while there also.

Snap me a picture of what measurements you need and I will take them tomorrow. Cant promise they are correct but they have not been replaced on mine.

Scott gave me some good advice. I will take a pic and show you. If you don't mind it would be interesting to see how close I come to the original measurements. Don't go out of your way. It appears it's not an exact science.

Qcode351mach;13953 Wrote:
Darren 72;13952 Wrote:
Qcode351mach;13925 Wrote:Darren the best way to fit the rad support..frt aprons..is with the fenders on the car ..If you notice i didn't install the rad support frt aprons on my car yet..for that reason..(I can't get the fenders on till the car is off the dolly) You will need the bottom rad support brkts.. the lowers locate the distance of the rad support from the frt crossmember..Once you have that, you can rough in the rad support with the fenders & hood on..Then x measure for square from each shock tower (use one of the 3 bolts) to the fender bolt hole on top of the rad support.
As far as the rear aprons you need to install the hinge to the cowl extension & the rear apron... see what you get ,that pretty much sets where the apron has to go...If your drivers side is like mine was & short to the firewall then you have to do what I did & you will need 2 aprons to make it happen nicely..My passenger side fit pretty good just a little trimming on the back bottom corner to get to sit flush to the frame rail & the top where cowl lip comes through to get it far enough back to sit flush to the firewall You are correct mock everything up with a few sheet metal screws ...then fit the fenders & hood. Just so you know & don't go crazy when you line up the fenders..I have the factory assy manual..Shims are used at the lower 2 attaching points to the rocker as are they used at the top mounting points under the fender..Do yourself a favor, & get some 1/16" shims & some 1/8" shims...Trust me on that..

Scott

Thanks Scott once again. I feel like I can pull this off with this info.

Ordering Rust Bullett and Blackshell in the near future. Are you going to put Rust Bullet on your new aprons and Rad support? If so are you going to sand blast the cheesy black paint that's on there when it's shipped on the new panels?. I can't remember what was on your video.

I noticed that Rust Bullet doesn't work as designed if you put it over paint. It's only as strong as the paint and can't adhere to the metal. I am going to put the Blackshell over the two coats of the Bullet inside the cowl and the front chassis. I was planning to use epoxy primer over the Bullet on the aprons and the top of the cowl and then paint maybe semi gloss. If the Blackshell looks good I may just do the whole thing with it after I put two coats of the silver grey Bullett on.

I agree with your philosophy about less money. The POR-15 has too many procedures and drawbacks.

Thanks,
Darren
Darren..DO NOT REMOVE THE CHESSY BLACK PAINT ON NEW PARTS !!! That is e-coating..It's a rust preventive treatment / semi type primer...All you need to do is scracth it up with a red scotch brite pad..You can do the whole enginge compartment in rust bullet /blackshell..I did my engine bay in epoxy primer (check the vid [email]http://www.7173mustangs.com/thread-friday-s-with-q-prime-time-video[/email] ) Because I'm not sure if I'm painting the engine bay the body color or blackshell.. I'm smoothing out welds etc in the engine bay so I prefer my plastic work to be done with the epoxy as a base...once thats done I can decide & then prep accordingly All inside the frame rails/ rockers is done with rust bullet...The underside of the car is gonna be 100% rust bullet/blackshell...You should do a "test panel" first before you commit to the black shell as your top/finish coat in the engine bay..There's plenty of other parts it can be used on..I just did the rear end using blackshell. http://www.7173mustangs.com/thread-rear-...hing-paint

Good stuff. That will be my plan. I will test the black shell inside the cowl. That will be a place that will be hidden unless someone takes the grills off and looks in.

I'm glad you told me about the paint on the aprons and rad support. I wasn't sure if it was just a quick spray to prevent rust during inventory holding and shipping.

I was going to pressure wash the front end but I think the way to go is just sand blast it and then start sealing it with RB.

I'll watch the vid again. Have a good weekend!
Darren 72;13954 Wrote:
Tnfastbk;13937 Wrote:
don29163;13936 Wrote:Darren, I am in the same boat. but, all that was already off when I bought the car.
I'm thinking that there has to be a common measurement from a shock tower bolt to the rad support..at least to get close.
Maybe someone with a good car will take that measurement for us.
I can't even find a set of lower radiator supports, but I think I could make something if I knew the distance between the front X-member and the rad support.
I am going to NC Saturday where a guy has lots of parts cars and I will measure while there also.

Snap me a picture of what measurements you need and I will take them tomorrow. Cant promise they are correct but they have not been replaced on mine.

Scott gave me some good advice. I will take a pic and show you. If you don't mind it would be interesting to see how close I come to the original measurements. Don't go out of your way. It appears it's not an exact science.

Qcode351mach;13953 Wrote:
Darren 72;13952 Wrote:Thanks Scott once again. I feel like I can pull this off with this info.

Ordering Rust Bullett and Blackshell in the near future. Are you going to put Rust Bullet on your new aprons and Rad support? If so are you going to sand blast the cheesy black paint that's on there when it's shipped on the new panels?. I can't remember what was on your video.

I noticed that Rust Bullet doesn't work as designed if you put it over paint. It's only as strong as the paint and can't adhere to the metal. I am going to put the Blackshell over the two coats of the Bullet inside the cowl and the front chassis. I was planning to use epoxy primer over the Bullet on the aprons and the top of the cowl and then paint maybe semi gloss. If the Blackshell looks good I may just do the whole thing with it after I put two coats of the silver grey Bullett on.

I agree with your philosophy about less money. The POR-15 has too many procedures and drawbacks.

Thanks,
Darren
Darren..DO NOT REMOVE THE CHESSY BLACK PAINT ON NEW PARTS !!! That is e-coating..It's a rust preventive treatment / semi type primer...All you need to do is scracth it up with a red scotch brite pad..You can do the whole enginge compartment in rust bullet /blackshell..I did my engine bay in epoxy primer (check the vid [email]http://www.7173mustangs.com/thread-friday-s-with-q-prime-time-video[/email] ) Because I'm not sure if I'm painting the engine bay the body color or blackshell.. I'm smoothing out welds etc in the engine bay so I prefer my plastic work to be done with the epoxy as a base...once thats done I can decide & then prep accordingly All inside the frame rails/ rockers is done with rust bullet...The underside of the car is gonna be 100% rust bullet/blackshell...You should do a "test panel" first before you commit to the black shell as your top/finish coat in the engine bay..There's plenty of other parts it can be used on..I just did the rear end using blackshell. http://www.7173mustangs.com/thread-rear-...hing-paint

Good stuff. That will be my plan. I will test the black shell inside the cowl. That will be a place that will be hidden unless someone takes the grills off and looks in.

I'm glad you told me about the paint on the aprons and rad support. I wasn't sure if it was just a quick spray to prevent rust during inventory holding and shipping.

I was going to pressure wash the front end but I think the way to go is just sand blast it and then start sealing it with RB.

I'll watch the vid again. Have a good weekend!

Just watched all your posted vids again. When you repaired the hat on the cowl, it looks like you sealed with RB first and then used the Flex #12 over the RB. If so can you prime or use Blackshell right over the Flex?

Chasing Rust
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