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radiator removal
#1
In working on the car (351c, auto, no AC ) recently, I drained the radiator and noticed some rust etc on the tubes. I thought of taking it to a radiator shop and getting it cleaned out.

From the shop manual, it looks fairly straightforward to remove.
Is it just the removal of the top and bottom brackets and shroud to get it out? When unscrewing the auto transmission lines, Is there going to be transmission fluid pouring out that I have to be ready for?

Has anyone used a radiator filter ( Ganno, Tefba, Aero_flow  )and are they worth it to keep junk from flowing around the engine and passages?

Thanks!
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#2
(05-28-2018, 09:12 AM)SteveO_71 Wrote: In working on the car (351c, auto, no AC ) recently, I drained the radiator and noticed some rust etc on the tubes. I thought of taking it to a radiator shop and getting it cleaned out.

From the shop manual, it looks fairly straightforward to remove.
Is it just the removal of the top and bottom brackets and shroud to get it out? When unscrewing the auto transmission lines, Is there going to be transmission fluid pouring out that I have to be ready for?

Has anyone used a radiator filter ( Ganno, Tefba, Aero_flow  )and are they worth it to keep junk from flowing around the engine and passages?

Thanks!

Drain the radiator. Just remove the top brackets, disconnect the top and bottom radiator hoses, the Trans lines ( yes you may have some trans fluid leak out but not much. Cap these two holes on the radiator otherwise trans fluid will drain out when you lay the radiator down), remove the air deflector on the top of the radiator, if you have one, remove the two top fan shroud bolts. You do not need to remove the shroud from the car, just lift out to the bottom clips and lay it back against the belts/water pump.

The radiator should just lift out now.

If you take it somewhere to be refurbished, be sure to remove your overflow tube and the two fan shroud clips on the bottom. Have the shop test your Radiator cap to be sure it is working properly.

Sorry I no experience with a filter. I would worry about it reducing water flow and clogging over time, but I really don't know anything about them.

1973 H Code Convertible - Medium Copper Metallic - June 8, 1973, Built Ford Marketing Sales Vehicle
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#3
runninpony 
+1 on rackerm ! I actually have used a Gano coolant filter in the past for years and there were no leaks and it worked fine. Downside is you have to cut the upper radiator hose, the filter clogs up once a month or so...but I don't recommend it.
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#4
Thanks for the tips! I finally wrestled it out and got it cleaned and pressure tested.

When installing it, is there anything I have to do special related to the transmission lines and cooler? Once they are re-connected and fluid is back running thru them, is there air in the system since it was all open or will running the car get that all out? Probably doublecheck the transmission fluid level once its warmed up? Also im assuming no thread sealer is needed since those are flared fittings and just need to be tightened?
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#5
(05-30-2018, 08:03 AM)SteveO_71 Wrote: Thanks for the tips! I finally wrestled it out and got it cleaned and pressure tested.

When installing it, is there anything I have to do special related to the transmission lines and cooler? Once they are re-connected and fluid is back running thru them, is there air in the system since it was all open or will running the car get that all out? Probably doublecheck the transmission fluid level once its warmed up? Also im assuming no thread sealer is needed since those are flared fittings and just need to be tightened?

Make sure your trans line flares are clean and not damaged, otherwise they may leak. Check your fluid level. That's it.

If you end up with a leak, I have used Loctite 37482 545 Pneumatic/Hydraulic Thread Sealant with some success.


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