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Radiator
#1
runninpony 
Just got the Stang started after 7 years, but my radiator is leaking.
It is leaking along the seam between the radiator cap, past the transmission coolant lines toward the lower radiator hose. Someone JB welded it. Can a radiator shop fix this or do you suggest a new one?

Brian Kulis
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#2
it can be fixed, but finding an actual radiator shop anymore is nearly impossible.

I bought a Griffin Aluminum radiator and it was virtually a drop in, with only a slight lower hose modification needed. They also have a universal that is a bit cheaper that looks like it too would just drop in. They aren't nearly as expensive as you might think and cost about the same as a brass radiator

https://www.griffinrad.com/load_details4...id=8-00087

[Image: 1_01_07_15_8_53_18.png]

"I love my Hookers!" and "Get some Strange" probably have a different connotation to non automotive enthusiasts!
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#3
Jeff73Mach1;170283 Wrote:it can be fixed, but finding an actual radiator shop anymore is nearly impossible.

I bought a Griffin Aluminum radiator and it was virtually a drop in, with only a slight lower hose modification needed. They also have a universal that is a bit cheaper that looks like it too would just drop in. They aren't nearly as expensive as you might think and cost about the same as a brass radiator

https://www.griffinrad.com/load_details4...id=8-00087
+1 It can be fixed but as jeff said...radiator shops are getting scarce
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#4
There's a national chain that does very good work called Performance Radiator. There appears to be one in Little Rock, not sure exactly where you're located. http://www.performanceradiator.com/aboutUs.php

These guys are very good. After 10 years of service, the Ford Motorsport aluminum radiator in my old 5.0 Mustang was showing its age (wasn't cooling well anymore). Took it into PR and they rodded it out for $75 and it was good as new again.

1971 Mustang fastback: 10.3:1 C90E 408W hydroller - CDAN4 EEC-V w/EDIS8, girdled, lowered and caged
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#5
blkulis;170269 Wrote:Just got the Stang started after 7 years, but my radiator is leaking.
It is leaking along the seam between the radiator cap, past the transmission coolant lines toward the lower radiator hose. Someone JB welded it. Can a radiator shop fix this or do you suggest a new one?

If it's leaking in one location on the seam chances are pretty good it'll soon be leaking in other locations, but a good radiator shop should be able to advice you of your cost choices.

Jim

M code 71 Mach 1, 351 4V Cleveland, Ram Air (not factory), C6 Trans, 3.5 rear
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#6
I would go new. 200 at auto zone for a replacement. Backed by a warranty can't beat it
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#7
It's a shame you're not closer to me here in SoCal. There's a shop here in Van Nuys that made me a new radiator, for about $160, with a 3 Year Warranty. They literally made it same day, took about 3 hours, using measurements from my old stock radiator. This one is a thicker Aluminum radiator and it's been great since I installed.

A radiator isn't a good thing to cut corners on, without it you're hosed. I'd suggest that if you can just get a new one and take rest in the peace of mind that brings you knowing you don't have to worry (as much) about it failing on you in the middle of a drive.

2013 Ford Focus SE Flex Fuel 5spd - Daily Driver
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#8
Any good radiator shop will be able to recore an existing radiator, if the end tanks are worth keeping. Cores found in turbo-diesel equipment are pretty burly and make a good high performance option if going that route. In the case of my Ford Motorsports radiator the end tanks are composite and reusable under most circumstances.

You have to keep in mind that most new stuff is crap. It's often not American made either. At least when you go into a rad shop to have a recore performed or have a new unit custom built, it's being done locally.

1971 Mustang fastback: 10.3:1 C90E 408W hydroller - CDAN4 EEC-V w/EDIS8, girdled, lowered and caged
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#9
like others have said it can be fixed, or easily replaced. question is up to you if you want to keep it.

repairing it will cost more however a good radiator shop can use that opportunity to make an old rad better.

for example you can recore the rad with a high efficiency core. a HF core has more veins and the columns are closer together
it allows you to pack the cooling capacity of a 3 or 4 row radiator into the space of a 2 row.

so you can make a stock part work better without having to change shrouds or fans if you want a more concourse look.

The transmission cooler can also be upgraded making it cool better.

finding a local rad shop that is good might be a problem.

in my case i never had the original radiator. I had a made in china that was cracked on the upper hose and leaked, a buddy gave me a trashed 72 rad and i found a local guy that did good work. I told him i wanted a HF core and upgraded trans cooler but keep the frame because of the part number stamp.
so i paid about double what another made in china replacement would of cost me. but i was limited in space to a 2 row configuration and this allowed me extra cooling capacity with my car. add to that a .60 over cleveland and A/C and the temps can sky rocket when its 90 out in the summer.

nothing wrong with the aftermarket, you can get aluminum rads too.

you could keep the original rad on the side install a cheap after market and just keep going later on if you really want you can have it boiled or recored and repaired this way you can drive the car for now.
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#10
The one word of caution I will raise with the aftermarket units, and I don't know if this is a universal or isolated issue, but watch the location of the Trans Cooler Lines. On my radiator the top port was about 1" lower than it was supposed to be compared to the stock unit. I didn't notice until I had it sitting in the car and was trying to hook everything up. I simple bent my lines to fit, but you may not want to. So be picky, ask questions, and request measurements. Worst they can do is say no!

2013 Ford Focus SE Flex Fuel 5spd - Daily Driver
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