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Questions on Front end rebuild.
#11
The one I posted from summit is correct. I’ve used mine for 40 years. Had to cut the threaded shaft shorter to squish my 900+ pound short springs on my road race Mustang.

Get one of those. You are then all set.

Link to my 72 Q code: pics added 2/16/19
https://www.supermotors.net/registry/28719/88030-2

Link to my now sold 72 H.O
https://www.supermotors.net/registry/5858

My 70 Boss racecar
https://www.supermotors.net/registry/6520

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#12
I bought the one that Jowens posted and it worked perfectly. After compressing the spring, remove the upper control arm, the spring will stay in place. If you want to remove the spring as well, then simple back the torque nut off as if you were disassembling it and once tension is fully released, the spring will be at full length and safe to remove by hand. Installing, I changed out the rubber bushing on top of the spring, put the spring back in place, slipped the compressor back in through the shock tower and reconnected the spring saddle to the compressor, and then tightened it enough to install the upper control arm.
I did find that my upper control arm mounting bolts that go through into the engine compartment was a millimeter or so off and I had to use a step bit to open the hole slightly for the control arm to mount in place. Not that big of a deal but good to know if your new arm won't mount properly. Good luck.

Tom
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#13
thank you guys!

"I drank what?" - Socrates
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#14
1)  you do NOT need to compress the coil spring to remove the lower control arm. Should you support the upper arm - YES.

2) I don't trust those home made spring compressors that people are buying off eBay.

3) The internal spring compressor that Danoh1 posted work, but are a PITA. I've used them plenty - still a PITA.

https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/perf...lsrc=aw.ds

4) The original Ford dealerships style compressor is the easiest to work with, yet the aftermarket versions are pricey.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/otc-7...XcEALw_wcB

5) The best compromise I've found is the internal with the "fork". You can use it like the four finger units, or you can flip the fork upside down and compress the spring against the top of the shock tower. I have the Snap On version of this tool and it works very well.

https://www.autozone.com/loan-a-tools/lo...555573_0_0


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#15
This is the one I have and love it. Same as Autozone above.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/oes-2...nwQAvD_BwE

Jeff T.

When I die I want to die like grandpa, peacefully in my sleep... not screaming, like his passengers.
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#16
Have removed coil springs many times, unfortunately... Have always used a quality exterior coil spring compressor. In fact, I use two, on on each side of the spring. I take no chances...

"Yes dear", has kept me in the hobby a long time...
[+] 1 user Likes 7173Vert's post
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#17
I got the one off ebay. It looks pretty stout. It also came with an instruction page. One thing I like. You remove the shock, bolt on the tool, tighten up the top nut. then raise the car. The spring will already be compressed enough to remove the lower control arm. So that makes it pretty simple. Cant wait to try it out on saturday.

"I drank what?" - Socrates
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#18
jowens1126 Wrote:I got the one off ebay.  It looks pretty stout.  It also came with an instruction page.  One thing I like.  You remove the shock, bolt on the tool, tighten up the top nut.  then raise the car.  The spring will already be compressed enough to remove the lower control arm.  So that makes it pretty simple.  Cant wait to try it out on saturday.
That's the one I have. It works great.

73 Grandé H Code. Headman long tube headers, T-5 Transmission, 3.70 Traclok, Lowered 1" all around, Aussie 2v heads w/ 2.19 intake, 1.71 exhaust, screw in studs, full roller cam 608/612 lift 280/281 duration LSA 112, Quick Fuel 750 CFM double pumper, AirGap intake.

- Jason


[Image: 082-hot-rod-power-tour-2017-1970-1970s.jpg]
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