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Questions about working on 351C engine
#1
Before I start flexing my hands around the engine maybe you guys have some tips on how to get to the distributor bolt for tuning. I have a 71 Mach 1 351C with the A/C compressor and there is hardly any room. I was hoping that this car had more space for working on the engine, but things are fairly cramped under the hood.
Other tips on difficult to reach bolts?
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#2
There is a special tool for it, perhaps you don't have one.

They look like this:


Attached Files
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.jpeg   wrench.jpeg (Size: 115.9 KB / Downloads: 179)

If you don't have time to do it right the first time, you sure as Hell don't have time to do it right the second time.

Dutch uncle
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#3
There is a special wrench for reaching the dist bolt on AC cars.
It's pouring rain out otherwise I can take a photo of mine
But I got it at sears.

It's bent like a big C so you can clear the AC compressor and turn the bolt.

As for clearance many times you need to pull the distributor and move it one tooth then reinsert so you can move the distributor for more advanced timing.

I've had to use claw foot wrenches, and so pm special extension hexes to reach some bolts or get the torque just right.

The exhaust manifolds are hard to get at.

Removing some parts requires pulling steering linkage then you have to feed some parts from underneath the car.

Pulling the oil pan will require pulling the motor at least up 3" which means poping motor mounts.


tony-muscle;195142 Wrote:Before I start flexing my hands around the engine maybe you guys have some tips on how to get to the distributor bolt for tuning. I have a 71 Mach 1 351C with the A/C compressor and there is hardly any room. I was hoping that this car had more space for working on the engine, but things are fairly cramped under the hood.
Other tips on difficult to reach bolts?
  Reply
#4
The intake manifold does not have any water passages. There is no need to drain the engine if you are removing the intake. Some of the 'discount auto store' manuals will include the draining step. Many older fords did have water passages in the intake.


Also, you are aware of the differences between the 2v and 4v designation? Wrenching is the same but not all parts interchange.

'Mike'
73 Convertible - 351C/4V CC heads/4bolt/forged flat tops/comp 270/rhodes/mallory unilite/tri-power/hookers/glasspacks/c6/3.50 limited slip/Gear Vendors/Global West sub frames, strut rods and shelby style traction bars/ Rear sway bar/tilt steering (not original)

Pics of modifications included in:
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#5
They have a Valley Pan under the intake manifold to keep hot oil off the intake and 2 barrel heads and gaskets are different(smaller) than the 4 barrel versions. That pan can be hard to find but felpro makes it and do not go without it should you pull the intake for any reason.
I used a 1/4 inch drive with a flex attachment to loosen the bolt on mine.
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#6
InjectedMach;195783 Wrote:They have a Valley Pan under the intake manifold to keep hot oil off the intake and 2 barrel heads and gaskets are different(smaller) than the 4 barrel versions. That pan can be hard to find but felpro makes it and do not go without it should you pull the intake for any reason.
I used a 1/4 inch drive with a flex attachment to loosen the bolt on mine.

Not in agreement here.

It's a luck of the draw if you can get those aluminum valley pans to sit right upon installation, and if you get it wrong, you'll wind up with a phantom vacuum leak.

Better off installing the FelPro gaskets with the heat riser blockoff without the pan. This may or may not be an ideal solution for colder climates, but it works in South Florida.

-Kurt

[Image: satellite-valiant-mustang-license-tags-signature.png]
How to buy a '71-73 Mustang:
Rule #1: Assume all classic car sellers are guilty until proven innocent.
Rule #2: No classic car dealer is ever innocent; thus, they are all guilty.
Rule #3: Buy from trustworthy people: Fellow forum members. Visit 7173Mustang's For Sale forum.
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#7
I have always had good luck setting the pan in place under the guide pins on the heads, little more tricky with Aluminum heads with no pins. Also I never use the paper gaskets or "silicone" but a product called right stuff its in the same tube form but is genuine elastomeric rubber ...permatex makes it.
Either way its good info to know you can get by without it Kurt, thanks
joe
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#8
the turkey pan is worthless if you go aftermarket with a performer intake anyway.

those pans really are a total pain to deal with.

the feltpro gaskets are complete hit or miss also. 9 out of 10 you lay a thick bead of permatex everywhere and lay the intake in a pool of silicone then say a prayer.

i've had feltpro gaskets start going for a walk after a while and cause a leak then you have to pull everything and start over.
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#9
Did not know so many had trouble with the turkey pan....
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#10
This thread has taken an interesting turn into intake manifold gasket installation. All this info is very useful because that's one of the upgrades I may plan for the future. I was a bit lost when you guys where talking about "Turkey Pans", but after looking at a few pictures in the internet now I know what it is. While I was looking at intake manifold gaskets I read a lot about some people suggesting to not use the heat risers while others opine towards keeping them. I was not able to understand what's the heat riser had to do with the intake manifold gasket. I thought the heat riser was the flex tube coming off the exhaust used to heat the air into the air filter, but I am assuming there is something else related to the intake manifold. Please enlighten me because I am a bit lost.

Another question. One of my future plans is to add headers. In my engine I see that the engine hooks are attached to the iron exhaust manifold. Now, once the headers are installed, where do those hooks attach to. Still to the manifold's bolts or is there something else? Also, to install headers, do you lift the engine out, or can it be done in the little space between the block and apron?
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