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question on strutrod bushing
#1
I picked up some Moog strutrod bushings but they don't look correct. Not the same shape as the old ones. Plus there seems to be an extra piece? The part number is correct on there site though. Any input is appreciated.


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#2
ya they dont look right.

http://www.mustangsplus.com/xcart/1967-7...hings.html
http://www.mustangsplus.com/xcart/1967-7...hings.html

1972 Satin Black Coupe, turns better than average, goes vroom with 303 RWHP.
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#3
http://www.7173mustangs.com/thread-strut...ent?page=3

73 conv. 460, D0VE large valve heads, Performer RPM manifold, Voodoo 227/233 cam, Holley 950 HP carb, C6 trans, 3.25 trak-loc.
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#4
Good Morning sdstang,

They are more of the generic versions that one will find. The cup lying down is the centering cup that goes into the back side of the frame. Can you take them back and see if you can get the ones that I listed below?

To install the ones pictured,

You would insert the washer with the bevel bowl side towards the back adjusting nut. Slip the hollow tube on to the thread rod part of the rod. The small cone side will mount towards the washer. Next, the centering cup will slip on to the rod with the large side of the inner bushing fitting into the cup. Insert into your frame, insert the other bushing with the Large diameter part of the bushing towards the frame. Place the washer, bevel bowl side away or outward, along with the nut and tighten.

These instructions are just FYI to give you an idea how they work.

I located these Moog Bushings at your local Advance Auto Parts.

1973 Mustang Mach 1 351 engine

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/...d+bushings

I also found on another forum, someone up loaded the original instructions of the Moog Bushings.


[Image: 28k7tb7.jpg]

Let us know what you do and if we can help you further.

mustang7173
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#5
mustang7173, All,
This is the same part number I have.

Part No. K8157


I think its just a matter of figuring out how it goes. The extra piece looks/seems the be the piece that it already on the back side of the crossmember. It seemed like it was welded there and non-removable. Perhaps is fused by rust?

I will follow the other link to see it its clear on the direction of install.

Thanks

-Jim












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#6
Jim,

On my car that extra piece was already welded to my frame from the factory.

Jeff

sdstang;160728 Wrote:mustang7173, All,
This is the same part number I have.

Part No. K8157


I think its just a matter of figuring out how it goes. The extra piece looks/seems the be the piece that it already on the back side of the crossmember. It seemed like it was welded there and non-removable. Perhaps is fused by rust?

I will follow the other link to see it its clear on the direction of install.

Thanks

-Jim












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#7
Jim, And why are you replacing the bushings that are on the car? They look new to me.
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#8
mach71351c;160759 Wrote:Jim, And why are you replacing the bushings that are on the car? They look new to me.

New is better Big Grin
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#9
Wrench 
All,

I was trying to find an image of the 10852 -Member - Front Floor Cross -D0OZ-6510852-B for this thread. Jeff8877, I believe what you are referencing is part of the forming of sheet metal when they made the cross-member. Look at the first and second picture and you can see the extruded lips are of the same design. The metal cup is designed to replicate the original alignment of the bushings to the cross-member.

sdstang- One reason that I recommended the bushings via the instruction sheet is that they are a two piece assembly that fits really nicely. Please keep us posted.

mustang7173 Big Grin
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#10
sdstang;160815 Wrote:
mach71351c;160759 Wrote:Jim, And why are you replacing the bushings that are on the car? They look new to me.

New is better Big Grin



Ah not always especially with the quality of replacement materials today
if those new bushings are POLY instead of the rubber i would throw them out and put the originals back on.
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