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Quarter window roll down conversion - alignment issues
#11
(05-20-2020, 12:58 PM)TheDude Wrote: Well this is turning out to be a lot more complicated that I had thought. The passenger window went in and fit fine the first go. Now I've spent a few hours on the driver one where I actually knew what I was doing and it still doesn't work well. Tony, I do know what you are talking about with the L notch. Tried a few different things there and really didn't get anywhere productive yet, but I'll keep trying.

David, on the shims, I assume they go behind the bracket on the bolts that mount it to the car, is that right?

Thanks

If you need more range try lengthening the groove to gain more adjustment if that works.

[Image: 20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg]

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump
Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes
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#12
(05-20-2020, 12:58 PM)TheDude Wrote: Well this is turning out to be a lot more complicated that I had thought. The passenger window went in and fit fine the first go. Now I've spent a few hours on the driver one where I actually knew what I was doing and it still doesn't work well. Tony, I do know what you are talking about with the L notch. Tried a few different things there and really didn't get anywhere productive yet, but I'll keep trying.

David, on the shims, I assume they go behind the bracket on the bolts that mount it to the car, is that right?

Thanks
Yes if you needed to move the upper part of the window guide over you would put between the bracket welded on the inner and the window track. They use horse shoe shape so they can put in without taking the screw out you can use regular washer also.


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David
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#13
Dude, you should have close to and inch movement in / out and forward / back on the glass 
You should not need any shims, unless something is bent.
I have never found any shims under the tracks
Here is a few pics of the adjustment areas

Pictures are mixed up first and last ones are the upper mount



[Image: 004.jpg]

[Image: 006.jpg]

[Image: 007.jpg]

[Image: 010.jpg]

[Image: 011.jpg]
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#14
Thanks for that. Spent a couple more hours messing with it and still having trouble. I've had the whole thing in and out a bunch of times, loosened and moved things all over. It's better now, but not great. I can get the window closed and the top edge looks OK. The lower edge is still too close to the body by the door and too far at the rear. Up front I was able to get it better by adding a washer behind the bolt nearest the top front edge. The back I just can't get right no matter how much I mess with it. It all works now, but it will leak like crazy in the back and will ruin the seal up front. Not really sure how to adjust it closer to the body as shimming seems to make everything go the other way.

To make this more weird, there is a pretty sizable gap between the quarter window and the door window so that doesn't seal at all either. Not really sure how to deal with that last one as the window is seated well in the back.

Some of this can be probably made better by using new rubber all around. I had just replaced the belt line felt and managed to ruin it as it the glass was too tight up against it. I would say the car is the problem, but of course the quarter window was fine before I decided to do this 30 minute window swap.

Maybe I'll grab some pics of what I'm dealing with so you can all have a chuckle at this.
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#15
If you adjust the upper studs in or out , shim is not needed
When this was going down the assembly line, there was no time for shims so it is very adjustable

If you have someone who can help you
Loosen the top two and bottom nuts on the main plate
Have them help you hold the glass where it needs to seat when closed
Take a light and look at the 3 mounting points to see where you need to go adjustment wise to get it close

The front of the mounting bracket has the L slot in it and that will allow you some tilt if you are not vertical with the door glass
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#16
Many thanks to OMS who took the time to PM to point out that the upper studs are actually adjustable with a hex key. For some reason I managed to miss that staring at them 4" away and from the pics. While still not perfect, that got me very close. Close enough to call it good until I get new weather strips as that will likely change things again. Now starting to put the interior together throughout the car.

Thanks again to OMS and everyone else that helped out.
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