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quarter skin replacement advise
#1
next week I'm going to to start replacing the quarter panel skins on my 72. I have a plasma,  cut off wheels,  air body saw,  electric body saw and an air flanger. I'm trying to decide if I want to line it up,  trace and cut half inch down then flange to set the new panel in.  or trace cut and butt word or attache the new panel and cut them togather and but weld that way.  have never done this type of body work but i'm no fool, so I'm asking for opinions and ideas in how this can work the best for me.  I've already replaced the floor in the car,  and the engine is solid.  the quarters are all that's left to start young the paint prep to the car.  thanks guys!!!!
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#2
Practice on another piece first. There is a good tutorial on panel replacement here
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showt...p?t=182565
DO NOT USE THE FLANGE method. You want to but weld the panels. Check out the thread I included here
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#3
I would butt weld it. It's a little harder than overlap but when done right makes for an invisible repair. I just did this on the 71 I'm working on. First trace with a sharpie how high your new panel is up the car. Then cut with cutoff wheel few inches below your line. Do this all way around. Fit the panel again and get it where you want it and hold it in place with self tapping screws. I then use a air powered body saw and cut through both panels at same time. This will make for a perfect seam. Remove panel and punch holes at front, back, and wheel well. Grind and prep for weld. Make sure you move around a lot so you don't warp the panel. I even keep a wet rag with me to cool the welds. Bounce around a lot or you will warp it. Same thing when grinding. Move around and don't overheat the metal. That's biggest mistake most people make. I even climbed inside of the trunk and ground the weld down on inside and you would never know that quarter panel was replaced. Let me know if you have any questions. There's lots of ways to do this, but this way works for me. You can also check out my build thread for all the pics of replacing the panels. https://www.7173mustangs.com/thread-new-...-71-mach-1
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Kevin

1971 Mach 1
408C Stroker
C4 w/3,000 stall
8.8" Rear w/3.73's
Disc brakes all way around.

[Image: 28ivsix.png]




                                                                                             
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#4
YES!!!!! THIS IS EXACTLY WHAT I WAS LOOKING FOR!!! thank you so much!!!
[+] 1 user Likes Casperfast's post
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#5
As Kevin and NG8264723 said, "butt weld" is the way to go.  I flanged mine, and it shrank the edge of the factory sheet metal so bad, mine were a surfer's delight once I finished welding them up.  So bad, that on the passenger side, I ripped the skin back off, ordered a new one, and 3M glued it back on (which I liked better, to be honest - and since mine's a restomod that I'll never sell, I didn't really care how I got it back on).

Kevin's pics are the best, but if you want to see an example of what not to do (with the flanger), click on the FB album link in my signature and scroll down about halfway through the 400 pics to the quarter panel replacement 'section.'  Wink

Can't say enough how awesome that came out, Kevin.  thumb

Eric

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#6
Never do the flange and overlap a panel if you want it to be invisible. Butt is the only way to go or replace the entire panel. I think entire panel is easier myself. When you do the overlap after a few years you can see it in the paint and always see it inside the car. With butt you can grind and dress both sides and it is not there. Full panel puts all work where the factory did it and nobody knows.


When a man is in the woods and talks and no women are there is he still wrong??
Tongue
David
[+] 1 user Likes Carolina_Mountain_Mustangs's post
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#7
turtle, I noticed that my panels are also too short overall length like the one you installed. I did like where you split it and filled. seems to be the best spot. any other advise you can remember I would appreciate. I read your build thread of that yellow car. great work man. you make this look easy.... I can already tell it's not. I've only got one side half done.
  Reply
#8
(06-07-2017, 07:17 PM)Casperfast Wrote: turtle,  I noticed that my panels are also too short overall length like the one you installed.  I did like where you split it and filled.  seems to be the best spot.  any other advise you can remember I would appreciate.  I read your build thread of that yellow car.  great work man.  you make this look easy....  I can already tell it's not.  I've only got one side half done.

Post up some pics of your progress. We will take a look and see if we can give you anymore pointers. Main thing with a quarter panel is to make sure you have it where you want it before you cut or weld!! Make sure your gaps are good at door and your body lines line up properly. Self tapping screws and clamps are your friend during the fitting process. DO NOT put too much heat to the panel. It is thin and will distort easily. That's one of the hardest things for new guys to get used to when doing butt welds. But if you move your welds around on the panel a lot and don't grind the crap out of it you should be good. I carry a wet rag with me also and after each tack weld I cool it with the rag. Once you get the hang of it its pretty easy. Your just cutting and welding! If I remember right I had 2 evenings in replacing the rear quarter. Post up some pics, take your time, have a beer. You got this! Let me know if you have any other specific questions! thumb

Also another thing I forgot to mention is to make sure you also fit you quarter panel extensions. You don't want a mis alignment back there either. Once I had mine pretty close I finished the welding and grinding. When it came time for mud work, I installed the quarter panel extensions and ran my mud all the way back over the joint/seam of the panel and extension and block sanded everything perfectly level. This way ensures that they are matched perfect. Once they are perfectly level, I unbolt the extensions and give them a little tap with my hand and break them loose carefully. Then use some fine paper to touch up  and round the edges slightly. Once its painted and assembled it fits perfectly. Not sure if this is how others do it but it works for me.

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Kevin

1971 Mach 1
408C Stroker
C4 w/3,000 stall
8.8" Rear w/3.73's
Disc brakes all way around.

[Image: 28ivsix.png]




                                                                                             
[+] 1 user Likes turtle5353's post
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#9
Very Very Impressive!

mustang7173
  Reply
#10
I also noticed that the lower front panel needed to be cut and bent in to fit correctly
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