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pulsing vibration
#1
any guesses on a pulsing vibration that lasts about a second starts at 1800 rpm and increases with speed and rpm? I'm thinkin driveshaft balance. input? all the mounts are new, not to say they couldn't be bad, I believe they're rubber as well.
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#2
How old are your universal joints and do they need greasing?

May be the needles starting to wear into the caps. shrug shrug

Adelaide

73 Mach 1
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#3
everything on the car as far as joints, and fittings is brand new, trying to work the bugs out after complete restoration.
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#4
Have you checked the bolts on the mounts? Motor, trans, etc? If they come loose will cause vibration.

'73 Grandé H Code. Headman long tube headers, T-5 Transmission, 3.70 Traclok, Lowered 1" all around, Aussie 2v heads w/ 2.19 intake, 1.71 exhaust, screw in studs, full roller cam 608/612 lift 280/281 duration LSA 112, Quick Fuel 750 CFM double pumper, AirGap intake.

'73 F code convertible. Bright red. Needs total restore. (IE HOT MESS)

- Jason
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#5
I'll recheck but its got less than 150 miles put on it since it was completed so loose that soon isnt likely.
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#6
(11-06-2018, 12:53 AM)libram Wrote: I'll recheck but its got less than 150 miles put on it since it was completed so loose that soon isnt likely.

Perhaps a loosen crankshaft damper bolt - forgotten to tighten with correct torque or a busted bolt thread. That drove a guy nearly crazy until he found that out... Has exactly your symptoms.

Tim

Never drive faster than your guardian angel can fly Angel
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#7
driveshaft balance or joint
transmission mount  (I have the prothane changed back to original rubber = problem solved)    Chin
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#8
(11-05-2018, 11:51 PM)libram Wrote: any guesses on a pulsing vibration that lasts about a second starts at 1800 rpm and increases with speed and rpm? I'm thinkin driveshaft balance. input? all the mounts are new, not to say they couldn't be bad, I believe they're rubber as well.

Did you check your pinion angle and or wheel balance? Also I found a bad pinion yoke on my car that caused a vibration. These are a couple of checks along with the other things mentioned. If you have a local company that works on big rig trucks around, most of them can check/balance driveshafts.
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#9
First thing to determine is whether it's engine RPM or speed related. Easy to check, just rev the engine to 1800+ in park and see if the vibration occurs. If it doesn't, then it's probably speed related, not RPM. You can also drive up to the speed it occurs and drop it into neutral. If the vibration goes away, it's engine related. If not, it's speed. If the vibration stays, put it back into drive and find a long flat stretch of road. Get it to where it's vibrating and cruise along at a steady speed. If you feather the gas lightly in between acceleration / coast / deceleration modes, you can normally get a u-joint related vibration to change or go away momentarily.

Speed related vibration can be anything from driveshaft & u-joints to tires, bent rims, bad bearings in the diff etc.

Engine vibration can accessory related, or some sort of balance issue, or even an ignition misfire. First thing to check on the engine side is to pull the accessory belts. If the vibration stays, it's balance or ignition related. If not, it's something in the accessories, most likely the fan.

https://www.tirerack.com/images/tires/vibechart.pdf

https://www.ericthecarguy.com/faq/determ...vibrations


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#10
You said complete restoration, did that include ring and pinion gears. Those are a possibility in addition to all of the above. Tip-in vibrations are those that vary with acceleration, coasting, and deceleration, and can be caused by a variety of drivetrain issues, from the flywheel/flexplate to the wheels and tires.



“If you can't explain it simply, you don't understand it well enough.”
--Albert Einstein
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