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Pulling motor
#1
For my 72 Mach 1 can the motor and transmission be pulled and installed as a unit or do they need to be separated? Removing the grill and radiator support make things any easier?

The hood of course is a given.

Thanks
Wade

Thanks!
Wade
1972 Mach 1 351 cj 4speed
"We confide in our strength, without boasting of it; we respect that of others, without fearing it."--Thomas Jefferson

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#2
Can be done both ways. No need to remove rad support
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#3
scgamecock;283543 Wrote:For my 72 Mach 1 can the motor and transmission be pulled and installed as a unit or do they need to be separated? Removing the grill and radiator support make things any easier?

The hood of course is a given.

Thanks
Wade

I pulled and installed my motor and MANUAL trans together, but I am not sure about an automatic. It probably can be pulled as one. Others will comment I'm sure.
Things you need to watch for or do first;
Get a hoist that is at least 2 ton and has adequate reach and lift height otherwise you will need to strip the entire front right to the rad support. I say this because all I had the last time was a 1 ton hoist and could only just get clearance over the rad support.
Watch for the center drag link and make sure nothing catches on it as you lift the motor up and forward. Ask me how I know??
An engine leveler is a great idea, but you will need that extra lift height. In my case, I had to work from the front, but I think it can be done from the side over the fender. That would save stripping all the front end down other than the rad.
Pulling the motor is really quite easy, just make sure everything is disconnected, linkages, clutch Z bar if a manual, etc. etc.
For my install, I used a low profile jack ( you will need it to get under the tailstock) While one guy was lowering the engine in, I was lifting the tailstock so it all went in level. Depending on your exhaust, you may need to get it out of the way. Mine is an H pipe and just cleared.
Again, this was with a manual trans and only took about 20 minutes to get it in.
Hope that helps and good luck.
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#4
Yep, that's how I do mine all the time. I have a 1/2 ton electric hoist in my rafters. Used a carb plate to hook to. Heres a pic of how I dropped mine in....
[Image: 2rrv1qa.jpg]

Kevin

1971 Mach 1
408C Stroker
C4 w/3,000 stall
8.8" Rear w/3.73's
Disc brakes all way around.

[Image: 28ivsix.png]




                                                                                             
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#5
turtle5353;283551 Wrote:Yep, that's how I do mine all the time. I have a 1/2 ton electric hoist in my rafters. Used a carb plate to hook to. Heres a pic of how I dropped mine in....
[Image: 2rrv1qa.jpg]

!/2 ton hoist in the rafters! That's doing it the easy way. Unfortunately many don't have that luxury.
Good point on using a carb plate. Using the lift plates on the exhaust manifolds and chains can be a pain and damage the valve covers if not removed first. Again, ask me how I know!!
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#6
Don't forget to seal up the back of the auto transmission if you have not drained it ahead of time. Freezer bag and several wraps of strong tape around the tail shaft works.
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#7
Do get a proper hoist with a long enough reach. One time I borrowed a smaller hoist and I ended up pulling the front bumper to it close enough to the engine. Between the bumper and how far back our engines sit there is a long reach. (I have a 73 which probably makes it a bit worse).

'Mike'
73 Convertible - 351C/4V CC heads/4bolt/forged flat tops/comp 270/rhodes/mallory unilite/tri-power/hookers/glasspacks/c6/3.50 limited slip/Gear Vendors/Global West sub frames, strut rods and shelby style traction bars/ Rear sway bar/tilt steering (not original)

Pics of modifications included in:
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#8
Can be done with a C6 trans. Pulled engine and trans as a unit out of my Mach. make sure to drain the trans. found out the hard waywhistling
+1 on a long reach hoist.
Jim

drive it like you stole it
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#9
At the factory they did install the dressed out engine and transmission together. They had special lift to attach to the engine lift brackets that are usually missing from our cars. You don't have that special lift that allowed one man to drop engine and trans in the car in about 5 seconds. I prefer to put the engine in and then the transmission from under the car. If you are working by yourself there is so much stuff to bump into, scratch, bend on the way in or out is why I just do the engine then the trans. A leveler is a must. An A frame always seems to work better for me than the rolling engine lifts. I use a Yale chain fall on the A frame. I also have a 2 ton engine lift.
Watching some of the old video of the assembly lines is embarrassing to see how quick they put one in.


When a man is in the woods and talks and no women are there is he still wrong??
Tongue
David
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#10
will e;283558 Wrote:Do get a proper hoist with a long enough reach. One time I borrowed a smaller hoist and I ended up pulling the front bumper to it close enough to the engine. Between the bumper and how far back our engines sit there is a long reach. (I have a 73 which probably makes it a bit worse).

That was exactly my problem last time. Had to strip it right down to get close enough, What a pain in the ass!
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