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Pulling Engine and Transmission
#1
Anybody able to tell me if I can pull the engine and transmission at the same time on a 71 Mach I with 351C and FMX transmission. Want to pull together but need to know if its possible.

Thanks
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#2
Definitely possible, but it'll be messy and you'll need lots of maneuverability (along with spotters/movers) to keep the tail-shaft housing from bashing anything important on the way out (and back in, I'm assuming). Make sure to plug the output shaft housing - you'll never get ALL the ATF out of the FMX by simply draining it flat, and when you crank up the angle, it'll go everywhere you don't want it to.

I wouldn't do it that way personally (because I've never done it like that before), but if you're comfortable with it, it certainly can be done.

I remember watching the 'experts' on Desert Car Wars struggle for an hour to remove a 351C/C4 from a '70s Torino, and then struggle trying to stuff it back into a same-year Ranchero for their auction. Took them almost an hour to get it out, then even more time to get it into the Ranchero. I just shook my head watching them fight with it... they didn't even empty the fluids or anything (how ghetto is that?).

I had my FMX out in about 10 minutes from underneath, and the 351C/2V out in 15 minutes (with the torque converter still attached to the flywheel because the engine was seized). It took me less time to drop the 351C back in than it did to find the chain for the engine hoist (5-10 minutes), then all of 5 minutes to pop in the AOD (that replaced the FMX) from underneath. I was fortunate enough to have a lift at my disposal, though.

Eric

[Image: mach1sig2.gif]
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#3
Plus 1 to what Mister 4X4 said. I pulled my 4 speed toploader out in 20-25 min. And then pulled the cleveland out in about 15-20 minutes. All of this was done by myself. Thats with everything unhooked. I considered pulling it out in one piece, but after talking to a few members I decided to do it in 2 pieces. The real problem with pulling them out as one is the clearances you need. The car will need to be up higher to get the angle needed to get the tranny out. And with that, the ceiling in the shop must be high enough, and with that you must have a lift that goes high enough. Plus at least 2 people.
And yes, drain the fluids. Ask me how I know !!AngryDodgy I put a cap on the tail shaft of my tranny, dropped the end down, broke the cap off that I just put on, then I was wearing a qt of gear oil on my chest !Blush

1973 Mach 1 Q code, 4 speed toploader w/3.70 traction lock
Freshly rebuilt with boss closed chambered heads, flat top pistons, adjustable roller rockers, Erson flat tappet cam, ARP bolts thru out, 10/10 crank, port plates, edelbrock performer intake, Holley 4160 750cfm duel feed, Hooker Comp. full length headers, custom h-pipe to dual Hooker mufflers. Specs out to 415 H.P.[quote]In the words of Ricky Bobby, " If you ain't first your last" Ha, Ha, Ha Tongue
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#4
And, the engine lift has to be extended way out, which makes it very front heavy and subject to tipping. But if I was doing it without a lift, I would pull both at once.
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#5
Ahem! 351M with C6 by myself
   

[Image: 2rr7aiv.png]

Just cruising along minding our own business when BAM!!! The LAWS show up.
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#6
marks73;103854 Wrote:Ahem! 351M with C6 by myself

I've done it both ways by myself. If you have access to a good transmission jack and you can get the car high enough then separately is probably "easier" but will take a little longer. Whichever way you go a load leveler is highly recommended.

73 conv. 460, D0VE large valve heads, Performer RPM manifold, Voodoo 227/233 cam, Holley 950 HP carb, C6 trans, 3.25 trak-loc.
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#7
Took out the mcode with fmx all in one, rebuilt the engine/tranny/engine bay and put back in as one piece ...no issues at all...
We used a good crane (1T) extended to 3/4 max and an engine leveler (must have).

[Image: Image3.png]
Jim
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#8
If I am going to service the transmission anyways I pull them both at the same time. The angles get a little crazy like the guys noted above.

If I am only doing engine work I leave the tranny in the car.

I don't have a lift, this is all done on the floor...

'Mike'
73 Convertible - 351C/4V CC heads/4bolt/forged flat tops/comp 270/rhodes/mallory unilite/tri-power/hookers/glasspacks/c6/3.50 limited slip/Gear Vendors/Global West sub frames, strut rods and shelby style traction bars/ Rear sway bar/tilt steering (not original)

Pics of modifications included in:
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#9
I have pulled both at the same time many times by myself. Even when I install mine I bolt up the motor tranny and headers all at same time and it all fits nicely.

Kevin

1971 Mach 1
408C Stroker
C4 w/3,000 stall
8.8" Rear w/3.73's
Disc brakes all way around.

[Image: 28ivsix.png]




                                                                                             
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#10
When going back in with everything it as alot easier putting the engine and transmission in together as a unit, but I'm sure you already know that.

351w - Ford racing GT40X 178 cc aluminum heads - Ford racing(crane) 1.7 roller rockers - Comp Cams 280H magnum cam .544" / .544" lift - ARP fasteners - hedman longtubes - magnaflow exhaust with X pipe -  MSD digital 6al box - MSD coil - optima red top battery - tuff stuff 140 amp alternator - ported weiand stealth intake  - edelbrock 1406 600 carb  - edelbrock rpm fuel pump - march pullies and brackets - Be cool fan controller - derale electric fan - FMX trans - motive 3.50 gears - traction lok - competition engineering subframe connectors - lakewood traction bars.                                            










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