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psgr door "in-out" adjutment
#1
Just replaced door seals on both doors. The driver's door is ok, the psgr door has to be SLAMMED to close it. This door was not the original door and had no seal when I bought the car. Is there an adjustment by loosening the torx fitting in the door frame? I haven't changes anything except the seal. When it is closed there is no in and out play in the door, (like the seal is compressing), and opening the door, it feels like it is tight on the lock assy. Everything else lines up in the front, the back is about 1/8th inch from faired when closed.
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#2
If you move the striker the door will not close flush with the quarter panel, as it moves out so does the back of the door. The seals should compress... some.

Post some photos maybe something will show up.

Jeff T.

Low buck, touring style, '73 Convertible "rolling restoration", 351c, 2v heads with a shave and a haircut, Performer intake, Holley 650(ish), roller rockers, screw in studs, guideplates, stainless valves, Duraspark / Motorsports MSD, T-5 conversion. 1-1/8" front, 3/4" rear swaybars KYB shocks and some home brewed subframe connectors. Future plans; JGC steering box, Cobra brakes and... paint, interior, etc.

When I die I want to die like grandpa, peacefully in my sleep... not screaming, like his passenger.

[Image: 1_12_09_14_10_15_11.png]
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#3
droptop73;121107 Wrote:If you move the striker the door will not close flush with the quarter panel, as it moves out so does the back of the door. The seals should compress... some.

Post some photos maybe something will show up.
I need the door to move "in" on the back just a little. The door closed easily with no seal, and had slight in and out play. Now, with the new seal, there is NO play and the door must be slammed to close. I thought there would be an adjustment on the aft door jamb fixture.
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#4
Danno;121098 Wrote:Just replaced door seals on both doors. The driver's door is ok, the psgr door has to be SLAMMED to close it...

I had the same issue when I changed the seal on my drivers door a few weeks ago, even after I would get it shut by slamming it, the edge of the door stuck out almost a quarter of an inch. Probably not the right solution but I adjusted the striker in. That helped and I've noticed it's getting much easier to close as the seal compresses, plus it's not sticking out anymore...but it still takes more effort to close it than it should. I'm sure someone will come along with the proper solution but that's what (kinda) worked for me.

Jim

Jim

M code 71 Mach 1, 351 4V Cleveland, Ram Air (not factory), C6 Trans, 3.5 rear
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#5
Jim and Jutta;121110 Wrote:
Danno;121098 Wrote:Just replaced door seals on both doors. The driver's door is ok, the psgr door has to be SLAMMED to close it...

I had the same issue when I changed the seal on my drivers door a few weeks ago, even after I would get it shut by slamming it, the edge of the door stuck out almost a quarter of an inch. Probably not the right solution but I adjusted the striker in. That helped and I've noticed it's getting much easier to close as the seal compresses, plus it's not sticking out anymore...but it still takes more effort to close it than it should. I'm sure someone will come along with the proper solution but that's what (kinda) worked for me.

Jim
That was gonna be my "bandaid" too, don't really want to start fooling with the hinges just yet.
My seal, (that came with the car), was about 1" too long too, so I re-drilled the attach points on the front end of the door. Have you ever heard of that?
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#6
Play at the rear means your striker is on the way out..look at the plastic bushing..if its worn that will cause play..moving the weather strip up because it was too long will also cause issues..The door should have 2 clicks on the latch to fully shut..The best way to adjust the striker is to do it from inside the door..there is a hole in the latch assembly that lines up with the striker head..with the door closed & held in the exact position you want insert a Allen head wrench through the latch hole..you can then tighten move exactly where you want it. & it will be in perfect alignment to the latch

LOVE OF BEAUTY IS TASTE..THE CREATION OF BEAUTY IS ART
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#7
Qcode351mach;121322 Wrote:Play at the rear means your striker is on the way out..look at the plastic bushing..if its worn that will cause play..moving the weather strip up because it was too long will also cause issues..The door should have 2 clicks on the latch to fully shut..The best way to adjust the striker is to do it from inside the door..there is a hole in the latch assembly that lines up with the striker head..with the door closed & held in the exact position you want insert a Allen head wrench through the latch hole..you can then tighten move exactly where you want it. & it will be in perfect alignment to the latch
I think I have a torx fitting on my striker. I understand about the hole in the latch that lines up with the striker with the door closed, but with the door closed and the tool in the striker, do you loosen/tighten it then? I think my '66 had a serrated plate under the striker. You loosened 2 screws and moved the striker to a different serration, then retightened the screws.(That was years ago and I may be mistaken) I have my car gutted and can see a plate on the other side of the striker. I am assuming I should soak this with PB Blaster before I attempt any adjustment. I just don't want to break the torx socket off in the striker.
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