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Proportioning Valve Leaks
#1
I am approaching my wits end on this one.  I cannot get the line that goes from the rear of master cylinder to the top of the Proportioning Valve to stop leaking.  Of course it HAS to be brake fluid that eats paint too!!!

I bought Stainless Steel lines and the reproduction Daniel Carpenter Proportioning valve.  I finally figured out that the culprit is the line where it goes into the top of the proportioning valve.  I cannot get it to seal.  Today I even tried disconnecting the line and re-seating it in that fitting.  It is still leaking.  Not sure what to do except to purchase a new line and see if that will seal.

Do any of you have any suggestions for sealing these things up?  I am lost!!


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#2
Get rid of the stainless lines! They are a nightmare to get to seal properly. Way too hard of material. I always use a nickel copper alloy . It’s much softer and seals way better.
But if you must use the stainless, your going to have to really really torque on them to tighten them enough not to leak.

Kevin

1971 Mach 1
408C Stroker
C4 w/3,000 stall
8.8" Rear w/3.73's
Disc brakes all way around.

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[+] 1 user Likes turtle5353's post
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#3
Stainless lines can be a bear. Take a really close look at the double flare and see if it is cracked.

I might have a pair of regular steel lines that I can part with, can't use them with the master cylinder I am using.
[+] 1 user Likes Bentworker's post
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#4
Inspect the flare to make sure it is not split or deformed. If slightly deformed you could give it a touch up with a flaring tool.

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#5
Wow, thanks for the response!

So the next question is this.  Do I just need to replace the one from the MC that is leaking?  I would bet it is cracked as I have it VERY tight and it leaks without pressure on it.(Not pressing the petal.)  I have no other leaks at this time, and the whole car was done in Stainless Steel lines.  I figure the proportioning valve is the only place we are seating the flares on Brass, as all the wheel connections are steel.

I am kinda dreading a complete replacement of lines on the car now that the power train and exhaust are in, but if I need to do it I better do it now.

kcmash
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#6
I used a locktite hydrolic sealer on a fitting to stop a small leak.I was not cheap but better than replacing the whole line.

LOCTITE 569 Hydraulic Sealant Thread Sealant is a high strength, low viscosity thread sealant designed for the locking and sealing of plastic and metal pipes and fittings, including pneumatic and hydraulic fittings. It prevents loosening and leakage from shock and vibration.

1973 H Code Convertible - Medium Copper Metallic - June 8, 1973, Built Ford Marketing Sales Vehicle
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#7
They sell some copper seals/washers that are used in HVAC systems that seat between the tube and socket. I have no idea if it would help but I found them when I was looking to alternatives for my steering system. They may not make them that small. Let me see if I find a link.

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1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump
Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes
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#8
Look at this link. This may or may not work. I am posting it as an idea. You will have to do some research in regards to sizes and angles.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/4pcs-3-8-Copper...1438.l2649

        [Image: 20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg]

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump
Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes
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#9
Also check the copper seal below the upper thread in fitting on the proportioning valve. I bought one of the aftermarket replacements and the copper seal on top was leaking. I had to find a copper seal that size and replace it. When I looked at the one that came off the proportioning valve it had a blemish from the stamping process that caused it to leak. Same thing, I had to repaint everything around the prop valve!!! Good luck!!
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#10
Guys,
One of my other car buddies builds hot rods for a living and uses stainless steel lines on everything. He has a line tool that cleans up the seating surfaces that was made especially for stainless steel. I would google it and I'm sure you will come up with it.
Thanks, Jay
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