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Proportion valve
#1
Hello

Im going for rear discbrakes.  Im currently having disc in the front and drums in the rear. Should change the block with built in propotion fixed valve, or just buy an adjustable valve and connect it on the rear brakeline ?

[Image: brake2.jpg]

[Image: brake1.jpg]

Regards Rob

For knowing your limit you have to pass it thumb
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#2
Robsweden,

I would go with the second one. It has the pressure switch connector. The first one would be used more in a track environment that would provide more granular control over the pressure from front to back.

Thanks,
mustang7173 Thankyouyellow
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#3
From what I did to my car, still with drum rears, I have an adjustable valve on the REAR circuit only, meaning I have 2 separate circuits. These cars are soooo light on the rear end, they lock up the wheels way to easily, even with a trac-loc dif. Mine happens to be an open dif, but without being able to adjust the pressure, the left wheel (un-driven) locks up in an instant. With disc brakes on the rear, I would think they could lock up even easier.
Another reason I like having 2 separate brake circuits is personal. I have had TWO major brake failures in my lifetime, one being in my 72 Q code Mach 1 which could have been fatal if not for quick reactions on my part. Fortunately I saved the car from wrecking. I would have had a chance to stop the car if I only had braking to the rears.
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#4
What I did...

Personally I run an adjustable prop valve on everything I have that does not have ABS brakes.
[Image: 0_AFD6_E96_BCE0_46_E7_B061_70794334_F976.jpg]
  Reply
#5
I kept the stock combination valve/distribution block and added the adjustable valve. The only reason I kept the block is to keep use of the idiot light. However, I removed the proportioning plunger of the stock combination valve so not to have two adjusting valves acting in series.
See thread:
https://www.7173mustangs.com/thread-conn...ock?page=3

        [Image: 20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg]

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump
4-wheel disc brakes
  Reply
#6
(02-15-2018, 01:30 PM)tony-muscle Wrote: I kept the stock combination valve/distribution block and added the adjustable valve. The only reason I kept the block is to keep use of the idiot light. However, I removed the proportioning plunger of the stock combination valve so not to have two adjusting valves acting in series.
See thread:
https://www.7173mustangs.com/thread-conn...ock?page=3

 That's more or less what I did, but I found the idiot light switch no longer works, light on all the time. I left it un-connected. So, would removing the prop. plunger fix that issue? All I did was plug off the rear line connectors on the block.
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#7
(02-15-2018, 02:06 PM)Stanglover Wrote:
(02-15-2018, 01:30 PM)tony-muscle Wrote: I kept the stock combination valve/distribution block and added the adjustable valve. The only reason I kept the block is to keep use of the idiot light. However, I removed the proportioning plunger of the stock combination valve so not to have two adjusting valves acting in series.
See thread:
https://www.7173mustangs.com/thread-conn...ock?page=3

 That's more or less what I did, but I found the idiot light switch no longer works, light on all the time. I left it un-connected. So, would removing the prop. plunger fix that issue? All I did was plug off the rear line connectors on the block.
I don't know if removing the plunger/spring will make the switch work. In mine it always worked, but I had to be careful when assembling it that it was centered. If you disassemble the valve and move the switch manually, does it work? Also, you say that you just plugged off the rear line connector. Did the light switch issue started after this? The light switch works on pressure differential so if you plug the rear line connector I wonder if the switch is not self centering to turn the light off. It may be staying displaced to one side, and such, keep the light on.

        [Image: 20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg]

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump
4-wheel disc brakes
  Reply
#8
(02-15-2018, 03:00 PM)tony-muscle Wrote:
(02-15-2018, 02:06 PM)Stanglover Wrote:
(02-15-2018, 01:30 PM)tony-muscle Wrote: I kept the stock combination valve/distribution block and added the adjustable valve. The only reason I kept the block is to keep use of the idiot light. However, I removed the proportioning plunger of the stock combination valve so not to have two adjusting valves acting in series.
See thread:
https://www.7173mustangs.com/thread-conn...ock?page=3

 That's more or less what I did, but I found the idiot light switch no longer works, light on all the time. I left it un-connected. So, would removing the prop. plunger fix that issue? All I did was plug off the rear line connectors on the block.
I don't know if removing the plunger/spring will make the switch work. In mine it always worked, but I had to be careful when assembling it that it was centered. If you disassemble the valve and move the switch manually, does it work? Also, you say that you just plugged off the rear line connector. Did the light switch issue started after this? The light switch works on pressure differential so if you plug the rear line connector I wonder if the switch is not self centering to turn the light off. It may be staying displaced to one side, and such, keep the light on.
 Tony, yes it worked before I disconnected the rear lines and plug them off, so obviously it needs both circuits pressurized to work. I think you are right that the switch is not self centering. It would be nice to know that at least my front brakes are good. Not sure what to do or even if it's worth looking at now as it would be a lot of work.
Thanks for your input.
Geoff.
  Reply
#9
(02-15-2018, 03:19 PM)Stanglover Wrote:
(02-15-2018, 03:00 PM)tony-muscle Wrote:
(02-15-2018, 02:06 PM)Stanglover Wrote:  That's more or less what I did, but I found the idiot light switch no longer works, light on all the time. I left it un-connected. So, would removing the prop. plunger fix that issue? All I did was plug off the rear line connectors on the block.
I don't know if removing the plunger/spring will make the switch work. In mine it always worked, but I had to be careful when assembling it that it was centered. If you disassemble the valve and move the switch manually, does it work? Also, you say that you just plugged off the rear line connector. Did the light switch issue started after this? The light switch works on pressure differential so if you plug the rear line connector I wonder if the switch is not self centering to turn the light off. It may be staying displaced to one side, and such, keep the light on.
 Tony, yes it worked before I disconnected the rear lines and plug them off, so obviously it needs both circuits pressurized to work. I think you are right that the switch is not self centering. It would be nice to know that at least my front brakes are good. Not sure what to do or even if it's worth looking at now as it would be a lot of work.
Thanks for your input.
Geoff.
The idiot light is just "idiot" since you won't know if you have a brake failure until you press the pedal.

        [Image: 20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg]

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump
4-wheel disc brakes
  Reply
#10
(02-14-2018, 09:39 PM)Bentworker Wrote: What I did...

Personally I run an adjustable prop valve on everything I have that does not have ABS brakes.
[Image: 0_AFD6_E96_BCE0_46_E7_B061_70794334_F976.jpg]

What master cylinder are you using?
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