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Power window problem
#1
Finally have some nice weather and went for a drive today. Had the power windows down (have been working ok) but when I got home and went to put the windows up, the passenger side would not work. The drivers side and both quarter windows work ok.
I am thinking that the motor is the problem because there is a draw on the electrical system when you work the switch (both the driver and pass. switch).

1) Does it sound like I am on the right track?
2) If so, does anyone know of a good source for motors - or can they be serviced?

I plan on taking the door apart tomorrow to see what I can find out.

Any advice is appreciated, thanks.
Ron

'72 Mach 1, 351 4v CJ, Ram Air, C6, 3:50 Trak Lock, a/c, ps, pw, pb, frt disc, Wimbledon White w/Vermillion int.
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#2
rockauto.com sells new power window motors for $18...DORMAN Part # 742251

Good Luck

Jeff
1972 Q Code Convertible
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#3
Thanks Jeff, if it is the motor I will check them out - it sure is a great price.
Ron

'72 Mach 1, 351 4v CJ, Ram Air, C6, 3:50 Trak Lock, a/c, ps, pw, pb, frt disc, Wimbledon White w/Vermillion int.
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#4
i used them in a Bronco a few years ago, they worked perfectly even at that cheap price. Do these units have those horrible nylon pins for the drive system?

[Image: 1_01_07_15_8_53_18.png]

"I love my Hookers!" and "Get some Strange" probably have a different connotation to non automotive enthusiasts!
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#5
Jeff...I think they all have those nylon pins. When I got my car neither window worked and it turned out the motors were fine but the pins were broken. I ended up just replacing them but they were almost as much as these brand new complete motors.

Jeff73Mach1;170286 Wrote:i used them in a Bronco a few years ago, they worked perfectly even at that cheap price. Do these units have those horrible nylon pins for the drive system?

Jeff
1972 Q Code Convertible
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#6
i replaced those pins in several units with .45 caliber lead bullets of a 255 grain weight IIRC-worked great and I still know the owner years later and he has never had a problem with them. Don't tell the EPA!

I figured the lead never deteriorates anymore than to develop a thin layer of oxidization and coated in grease, they should last forever. Being dead soft they will deform if overloaded Big Grin

[Image: 1_01_07_15_8_53_18.png]

"I love my Hookers!" and "Get some Strange" probably have a different connotation to non automotive enthusiasts!
  Reply
#7
You CAN find those nylon shear pins cheaply. I didn't know this & sawed up some solid nylon rod to fix mine - which ain't ever going to break. There's always something more important to fix than wondering if the windows are going to malfunction though...
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#8
Someone on TheLincolnForum.net cut pieces of fuel hose of an appropriate diameter in place of the sheer pins. Worked well, I hear.

-Kurt

[Image: satellite-valiant-mustang-license-tags-signature.png]
How to buy a '71-73 Mustang:
Rule #1: Assume all classic car sellers are guilty until proven innocent.
Rule #2: No classic car dealer is ever innocent; thus, they are all guilty.
Rule #3: Buy from trustworthy people: Fellow forum members. Visit 7173Mustang's For Sale forum.
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#9
I agree, those bushings are the problem 99% of the time $8 fix.vthe front motors are the same ford used since the 50's. The rears are the very unique problem. There is also a version that uses springs instead of the pins. If you have that kind just use the Dorman P/N 15196-05055581 that fits either side. around $13 to 28.
  Reply
#10
Thanks to all of you for your help and suggestions. I pulled the door apart, removed all of the power window components, and cleaned and inspected everything:
- bench tested the motor (after removing from the regulator) and it worked fine. The gear is in good shape.
- lubed the regulator and re-assembled it to the motor and bench tested again - worked good.
- cleaned and lubed the window guide and roller, installed the motor/regulator back into place and adjusted all of the guides and stops. It is now working great better than before.
I think the problem may have been that the bottom window stop may have been adjusted (or bent) to low, allowing the window regulator to over-travel and bind.
Hopefully it is fixed - but I am going to pick up a spare motor just in case.

'72 Mach 1, 351 4v CJ, Ram Air, C6, 3:50 Trak Lock, a/c, ps, pw, pb, frt disc, Wimbledon White w/Vermillion int.
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