Region: Southeast
Location: The Villages, FL
Finally have some nice weather and went for a drive today. Had the power windows down (have been working ok) but when I got home and went to put the windows up, the passenger side would not work. The drivers side and both quarter windows work ok.
I am thinking that the motor is the problem because there is a draw on the electrical system when you work the switch (both the driver and pass. switch).
1) Does it sound like I am on the right track?
2) If so, does anyone know of a good source for motors - or can they be serviced?
I plan on taking the door apart tomorrow to see what I can find out.
Any advice is appreciated, thanks.
Ron
'72 Mach 1, 351 4v CJ, Ram Air, C6, 3:50 Trak Lock, a/c, ps, pw, pb, frt disc, Wimbledon White w/Vermillion int.
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Region: West
Location: So Cal
03-11-2014, 09:15 PM
(This post was last modified: 03-11-2014, 09:17 PM by jeff8877.)
rockauto.com sells new power window motors for $18...DORMAN Part # 742251
Good Luck
Jeff
1972 Q Code Convertible
1973 Q Code Mach 1 Ford Marketing Sales Vehicle
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Region: Southeast
Location: The Villages, FL
Thanks Jeff, if it is the motor I will check them out - it sure is a great price.
Ron
'72 Mach 1, 351 4v CJ, Ram Air, C6, 3:50 Trak Lock, a/c, ps, pw, pb, frt disc, Wimbledon White w/Vermillion int.
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Region: Southeast
Location: Nashville, Tennessee
i used them in a Bronco a few years ago, they worked perfectly even at that cheap price. Do these units have those horrible nylon pins for the drive system?
"I love my Hookers!" and "Get some Strange" probably have a different connotation to non automotive enthusiasts!
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Region: West
Location: So Cal
Jeff...I think they all have those nylon pins. When I got my car neither window worked and it turned out the motors were fine but the pins were broken. I ended up just replacing them but they were almost as much as these brand new complete motors.
Jeff73Mach1;170286 Wrote:i used them in a Bronco a few years ago, they worked perfectly even at that cheap price. Do these units have those horrible nylon pins for the drive system?
Jeff
1972 Q Code Convertible
1973 Q Code Mach 1 Ford Marketing Sales Vehicle
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Region: Southeast
Location: Nashville, Tennessee
i replaced those pins in several units with .45 caliber lead bullets of a 255 grain weight IIRC-worked great and I still know the owner years later and he has never had a problem with them. Don't tell the EPA!
I figured the lead never deteriorates anymore than to develop a thin layer of oxidization and coated in grease, they should last forever. Being dead soft they will deform if overloaded
"I love my Hookers!" and "Get some Strange" probably have a different connotation to non automotive enthusiasts!
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Region: Europe
Location: United Kingdom
You CAN find those nylon shear pins cheaply. I didn't know this & sawed up some solid nylon rod to fix mine - which ain't ever going to break. There's always something more important to fix than wondering if the windows are going to malfunction though...
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Region: Southeast
Location: South Florida
Someone on TheLincolnForum.net cut pieces of fuel hose of an appropriate diameter in place of the sheer pins. Worked well, I hear.
-Kurt
How to buy a '71-73 Mustang:
Rule #1: Assume all classic car sellers are guilty until proven innocent.
Rule #2: No classic car dealer is ever innocent; thus, they are all guilty.
Rule #3: Buy from trustworthy people: Fellow forum members. Visit 7173Mustang's For Sale forum.
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Region: Northwest
Location: wa state
03-13-2014, 01:24 AM
(This post was last modified: 03-13-2014, 01:30 AM by 74proii.)
I agree, those bushings are the problem 99% of the time $8 fix.vthe front motors are the same ford used since the 50's. The rears are the very unique problem. There is also a version that uses springs instead of the pins. If you have that kind just use the Dorman P/N 15196-05055581 that fits either side. around $13 to 28.
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Region: Southeast
Location: The Villages, FL
Thanks to all of you for your help and suggestions. I pulled the door apart, removed all of the power window components, and cleaned and inspected everything:
- bench tested the motor (after removing from the regulator) and it worked fine. The gear is in good shape.
- lubed the regulator and re-assembled it to the motor and bench tested again - worked good.
- cleaned and lubed the window guide and roller, installed the motor/regulator back into place and adjusted all of the guides and stops. It is now working great better than before.
I think the problem may have been that the bottom window stop may have been adjusted (or bent) to low, allowing the window regulator to over-travel and bind.
Hopefully it is fixed - but I am going to pick up a spare motor just in case.
'72 Mach 1, 351 4v CJ, Ram Air, C6, 3:50 Trak Lock, a/c, ps, pw, pb, frt disc, Wimbledon White w/Vermillion int.
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