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power to starter in run position
#1
When I turn the key from off to run the starter instantly trys to start. I've replaced the starter solenoid and the ignition switch. still power to starter in the run position. Does anybody know how to fix this?
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#2
Are you sure that you don't have the two push on wires at the solenoid reversed? The solenoid has 2 functions:
1. provides power to the starter motor when key in the start position.
2. Provides 12v to the coil when key is in the start position otherwise it will have about 9v when key is in the run position.

I am thinking that you may have the wire that provides 9v in the run position connected to the post that energizes the solenoid. When you put the key to run you are energizing the solenoid with the 9v coil power and energizing the starter motor. Quick check would be to have the wire with 0v on the small post closest to the radiator when the key is in the run position. The other wire should have about 9v when the key is in the run position and on the small terminal post of the solenoid closest to the firewall. Hope this makes sense.

EDIT:
Wire that is Red with light blue stripe is power to energize the starter solenoid and should be connected to 1st push on post.
Wire that is red with light green stripe is for 12v power to coil during start, then goes to 9v when in run position. This goes on the second post closet to firewall.

These should be the color codes for a 73 Mustang.

-john
(jbojo)
351C 4V cc heads, 10.5 : 1 CR, 290 Herbert cam, Flat top forged pistons, forged connecting rods, Atomic efi,
C6 with Gear Vendor overdrive, 3.89 Tru Trac, Hooker Super Comp with 2 1/2" Pypes Exhaust.        

Some Mod pictures can be seen at:

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#3
I switched the two wires and it doesn't even turn over

I checked the wiring and I had them reversed. But why doesn't it even turn over. I had red w/light blue to the second post and red w/yellow stripe to first post
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#4
Is it an automatic? Sounds like the neutral safety switch may need adjustment. Try placing the shift selector in neutral if an automatic and try starting it again. If the NSS switch is not properly adjusted the car will not turn over. This switch prevents you from starting the car in drive. Will only allow car to start in neutral or park if this switch is adjusted correctly. Could also be the connector is loose for this switch or has become disconnected. Sounds like now you are not getting the 12v to the starter solenoid when the ignition switch is in the start position.

-john
(jbojo)
351C 4V cc heads, 10.5 : 1 CR, 290 Herbert cam, Flat top forged pistons, forged connecting rods, Atomic efi,
C6 with Gear Vendor overdrive, 3.89 Tru Trac, Hooker Super Comp with 2 1/2" Pypes Exhaust.        

Some Mod pictures can be seen at:

  Reply
#5
yes its an automatic. Still nothing. Maybe I had the wiring right before. do I need a new lock cylinder. Or maybe I was sold the wrong ignition switch.
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#6
The color codes for the wiring is correct for a 73 mustang. Was the car working correctly before you changed the solenoid? You need to check the NSS switch. My car did not turn over until I adjusted mine.

-john
(jbojo)
351C 4V cc heads, 10.5 : 1 CR, 290 Herbert cam, Flat top forged pistons, forged connecting rods, Atomic efi,
C6 with Gear Vendor overdrive, 3.89 Tru Trac, Hooker Super Comp with 2 1/2" Pypes Exhaust.        

Some Mod pictures can be seen at:

  Reply
#7
I would start tracing 12 volts, make sure you have 12 volts out of the ignition switch when in the start position, then make sure it's getting to the neutral safety switch and out of the NSS (with transmission in neutral and park) and then to the solenoid.



“If you can't explain it simply, you don't understand it well enough.”
--Albert Einstein
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#8
Well I'd like to thank you guys for all the information you gave me. So turns out you guys were right about the wiring. I had the two switched at the relay posts. When I switched them the car wouldn't even turn over. I did some checking and found out I have a wiring issue somewhere from where it leaves the ignition switch to the relay. I live in Wisconsin so I want to drive it now before it gets nasty out so I just ran a new wire straight from the ignition switch to the relay. Everything works great just now I have eliminated the nss. Ill fix that during the winter. Thanks for all the help!!
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#9
Glad to hear that you can start it with the key now. Just be careful as the car will start when in gear now. The NSS adjustment is really an easy one so I would get that done soon. Enjoy driving your car.

-john
(jbojo)
351C 4V cc heads, 10.5 : 1 CR, 290 Herbert cam, Flat top forged pistons, forged connecting rods, Atomic efi,
C6 with Gear Vendor overdrive, 3.89 Tru Trac, Hooker Super Comp with 2 1/2" Pypes Exhaust.        

Some Mod pictures can be seen at:

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