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Power steering leak
#11
(09-13-2019, 08:28 AM)Don C Wrote: You can get Crowfoot wrenches that fit on a socket wrench. Then you can use a long extension to get to places like this. There are also flare nut Crowfoot socket wrenches available.
https://www.harborfreight.com/7-piece-3-...94426.html
https://www.harborfreight.com/7-piece-sa...93137.html
 Mine are just regular crow-foot, Harbor Freight didn't have the Flare nut type when I got my set, or I would for sure have bought those. Even with a long 3/8" extension, it's a bit of pita to get the best angle especially if there is a booster in the way.
Buy the Flare type would be best bet for this job.
Geoff.

I learn something new every day!
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#12
I use the flare type whenever I can, even on regular bolts and nuts, one less PITA not having the wrench slip off the nut, plus grips better, and more leverage available with the ratchet or breaker bar (compared to an end wrench).



“If you can't explain it simply, you don't understand it well enough.”
--Albert Einstein
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#13
(09-13-2019, 02:19 PM)Don C Wrote: I use the flare type whenever I can, even on regular bolts and nuts, one less PITA not having the wrench slip off the nut, plus grips better, and more leverage available with the ratchet or breaker bar (compared to an end wrench).
Too true!

I learn something new every day!
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#14
Do you guys put any thread sealant on the fittings going to the gear box or pump, especially the high pressure one?



I'm was thinking of maybe a Permatex liquid sealant as opposed to teflon tape.

thoughts?

Its actually not to bad getting to the lower fittings if the support brace is moved out of the way and using the crows foot socket.





Thanks!
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#15
(09-15-2019, 10:07 AM)SteveO_71 Wrote: Do you guys put any thread sealant on the fittings going to the gear box or pump, especially the high pressure one?



I'm was thinking of maybe a Permatex liquid sealant as opposed to teflon tape.

thoughts?

Its actually not to bad getting to the lower fittings if the support brace is moved out of the way and using the crows foot socket.





Thanks!


If it's flare tubing as the power steering lines are then a sealant will not do any good.  The seal is created at the flare and the seat.  Sealant on the threads will not prevent a leak.  The leak will still occur between the nut and the tubing.  Also putting sealant on a the flare or seat can cause issues with contaminating the fluid and posing other problems.  But to say  I haven't put sealant on a flare would be lying.  Have done it after all else has failed and have been extremely careful of trying to keep it from getting into the system.  The one area I will not do it on is the brakes.  To much at risk.  If the flare leaks then I  re-flare or replace the line.

Kilgon


"The only dumb question is the one not asked"
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#16
Would something like Nylog work on these situations?

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1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump
Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes
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#17
Good question. Brother in law sells ac and I have used the product helping him. For those who don't know Nylog is a sealant developed for the HVAC industry and has found other uses in the market place.

There are two types, red and blue. The blue is made of POE oil which is a type of synthetic oil used in refrigeration compressors. The red is a mineral oil base product and probably would not cause any problems in the trans or power steering. I would use sparingly. You have to remember that any foreign material that might gel of clump can cause problems by blocking passages and ports.

Remember there are 3 types of flares. Single, double and bubble. Our mustangs use the single on the ps and trans. The brakes use the double.
Also, most leaks that occur on flare lines happen from over tightening and distorting the flare especially on the brake lines. Odds are that if the flare leaks at the seat you are going to have a leak regardless of where you put any type of thread sealer.

There are specific torque values for tightening flare fittings based on the usage and type of tubing used. A good general rule of thumb to use is first try to seat the flare in the fitting by pushing the line in. Next, start tightening the nut until snug. Once snug give 1/4 to 1/2 more turns. Test for leaks.

If needed, do 1/8 of a turn at a time until leak stops. Do not overtighten. If leak does not stop take line back off and check for any dirt or cracks on the flare. Wipe clean and try again.

I would still not use Nylog on brake lines.

Kilgon


"The only dumb question is the one not asked"
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