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Power loss and knocking sound cil 3
#1
Hallo .

I have a problem. After i had the car front up say about 45 degree and for 2 days for brake job . My motoris making probleem s at first idle stall in gear . And rough idle . And bad starting have to give full throttle and then it wil idle in p rough. Now i have a knocking sound at cil 3 but not always and not every time say it makes knock knock knock and 5sec nothing and knock . When half throttle no knocking .

I have the carburettor cleant. I have new cabels new distributor new plugs .

Every thing where good before the brake job.

I hope somebody haves a idee.
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#2
I would start by removing and examining the spark plug for that cylinder.



“If you can't explain it simply, you don't understand it well enough.”
--Albert Einstein
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#3
Don C;271689 Wrote:I would start by removing and examining the spark plug for that cylinder.

I have removed the sparkplug and everthing is good .

Now i have pulled the intake . And i see that the intake is leaking inside on cil 2 . 3 . 6. 7 . Also many bolts on the intake where hand tight
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#4
Update . Everything put back toghter. And now i am playing with the valve clearness but when i thigten then nut al the way down the valve on exhaust and intake stays open
So what do i wrong?? Still runs crap .

Help needed
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#5
Maybe when you had the car on angle the float in the carburetor got hung up?
Tap on the float bowl of the carb with soft hammer not hard just tap. What engine are you working with? There are videos on the internet that show how to properly adjust the valves. With a lifter that has oil in it the valve will open sometimes as you tighten the adjuster and be ok when running. Go look at some videos they explain it with pictures much easier than I can. Look for one for your engine.


When a man is in the woods and talks and no women are there is he still wrong??
Tongue
David
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#6
Did it run OK before the brake work? I don't know what has been done to the engine but, the attachment may help with getting the lifter preload right. Due to previous machine work to the block deck and head surface (material removal) that the pushrod now is too long. This would cause too much preload when the bolt is tightened down. This is just a guess. Chuck

http://www.panteraplace.com/Tech%20Info/...20info.pdf
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#7
Are you sure the piston is at top dead center (TDC) on the compression stroke when you tighten the lifter nuts?



“If you can't explain it simply, you don't understand it well enough.”
--Albert Einstein
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#8
We need a lot more information than what you've given so far..
Engine size
Hydraulic or solid lifters
Type carburetor
Type intake manifold
Distributor
What work have you done so far..
Please be detailed and accurate..
Thaks

The person who says it cannot be done should not interrupt the person doing it. 
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#9
piper62j;271965 Wrote:We need a lot more information than what you've given so far..
Engine size
Hydraulic or solid lifters
Type carburetor
Type intake manifold
Distributor
What work have you done so far..
Please be detailed and accurate..
Thaks

Hallo.

Engine 347 stroker.
Hydraulic liftera
Holly 750cfm
Edelbrock rpm
Standard distributor with perdox installed. And flametrower coil

Cam is unknown . I know it has more lift then the original i pulled out of the engine. But how much i dont know . Its second hand pulled out other engine that i have for parts

But i have a update . Its now working fine

The intake where leaking to the inside of the engine.
Now i only have to fine tune the distributor and carburettor

Thanks for the helps and my best greeting to you al.
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