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Possible Valve Job
#1
Hello Everyone,

So i'm guessing that my car needs a valve job but i'm not completely sure. 

Some of the signs i've noticed are rough idle when the transmission is in drive, but neutral seems to smooth it out. Also some smoke from the exhaust. One of the alternator bolts snapped and i have a feeling it was due to the engine shaking. Anyone know what this problem could be? Advice would be very appreciated. 

Thanks guys,

-Zak
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#2
(02-12-2017, 05:25 PM)bigfoot72 Wrote: Hello Everyone,

So i'm guessing that my car needs a valve job but i'm not completely sure. 

Some of the signs i've noticed are rough idle when the transmission is in drive, but neutral seems to smooth it out. Also some smoke from the exhaust. One of the alternator bolts snapped and i have a feeling it was due to the engine shaking. Anyone know what this problem could be? Advice would be very appreciated. 

Thanks guys,

-Zak
Oh and my car is a 1972 Ford Mustang with a 351C-2V.
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#3
Do a compression check, and see what that tells you.  It should only take an hour or two.
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#4
look for a vacuum leak-symptoms are pretty much in line.

[Image: 1_01_07_15_8_53_18.png]

"I love my Hookers!" and "Get some Strange" probably have a different connotation to non automotive enthusiasts!
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#5
(02-13-2017, 01:15 PM)Jeff73Mach1 Wrote: look for a vacuum leak-symptoms are pretty much in line.

+1 sounds like vacuum leak.

Kevin

1971 Mach 1
408C Stroker
C4 w/3,000 stall
8.8" Rear w/3.73's
Disc brakes all way around.

[Image: 28ivsix.png]




                                                                                             
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#6
What color is the exhaust smoke? Bluish/gray is oil, black/dark gray is unburned fuel, white is water vapor. Oil burning indicates more problems than just needing a valve job. Water vapor that doesn't go away after engine is warmed up also indicates potential problems. Unburned fuel could be carburetor or ignition problems, also badly burned or recessed exhaust valves.



“If you can't explain it simply, you don't understand it well enough.”
--Albert Einstein
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#7
It does sound like it could be a vacuum leak, also you might need to replace your valve stem seals because they become brittle with age and end up in the oil pan causing the oil pump to lock up.

351w - Ford racing GT40X 178 cc aluminum heads - Ford racing(crane) 1.7 roller rockers - Comp Cams 280H magnum cam .544" / .544" lift - ARP fasteners - hedman longtubes - magnaflow exhaust with X pipe -  MSD digital 6al box - MSD coil - optima red top battery - tuff stuff 140 amp alternator - ported weiand stealth intake  - edelbrock 1406 600 carb  - march pullies and brackets - Be cool fan controller - derale electric fan - FMX trans - motive 4.11 gears - traction lok - competition engineering subframe connectors - lakewood traction bars.                                            










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#8
Dark grey or black smoke indicates a rich fuel mixture.. Light grey smoke is oil burning.. If there is a puff of light grey smoke at start up, that indicates defective valve seals.. Light grey smoke emitted all the time, or when the engine is under power indicates worn piston oil rings.

Test for a vacuum leak first.. I spray brake cleaner (the new type) around the base of the carburetor, along the intake manifold bolts, egr valve, and all vacuum hoses, even up at the power brake booster with the engine at idle.. If you notice a change in engine rpm, the area you sprayed last is where the vacuum leak is.

A compression test will tell you a lot also. There are two types. Compression and leak down..

Pick up a cheap Ford repair manual (usually a flea market or at the local library) which will give you the specs on all the above testing..

Lastly, you may want to inspect the distributor points (if you have them), dirty spark plugs fouled with oil and the voltage output on the secondary side of the ignition coil. All these can add up to poor performance.. A stuck pcv valve will wreak havoc too by sucking too much oil vapor from the valve cover.

The broken alternator bolt is the result of over torquing, not engine vibration. There should have been a spacer between the alternator and the bracket where it mounts to the cylinder head to spread the load.

The person who says it cannot be done should not interrupt the person doing it. 
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#9
http://www.alliedmotorparts.com/cylinder...ngine=1031
if your engine is an orig '72 ck them out.. i just got a set from them and looked great.. free shipping to u and free return of your old heads. you can call them and ask if the heads are really a '71 or just a fit.. if u want to keep it stock.
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#10
(02-16-2017, 08:34 AM)delawarebill Wrote: http://www.alliedmotorparts.com/cylinder...ngine=1031
if your engine is an orig '72 ck them out.. i just got a set from them and looked great.. free shipping to u and free return of your old heads. you can call them and ask if the heads are really a '71 or just a fit.. if u want to keep it stock.

All I can say is wow, $190 for a pair of "rebuilt" heads shipped and take your cores return for the same money. I have always and I like my stuff to be built to a quality not to a price. They're probably OK for a half worn standard engine, but to me for that price corners are cut somewhere. As the saying goes, good work ain't cheap and cheap work ain't good.
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