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Phospate and oil/Parkerizing
#1
Wrench 
I have been meaning to do something with my hood latch and hood hinges before they go back on. Someone painted them black, and according to all the stuff I have read it was not Ford. The paint (as was all the paint in the engine compartment) was flaking and bad. I knew I was going to bead blast them, but then what?
I read that cast blast and some other paints do a decent job of appearing to be the phosphate and oil treatment that they got originally. However, on hinges and latches, I know that the paint is going to chip away.
I did some research and found DIY phosphating by Palmetto Enterprises.
http://www.palmettoenterprises.net/Palme...come-.html
I ordered a pint of the Zinc Phosphate (enough to make 4 gallons of solution) and gathered my materials. Basically you heat the solution to 190-200 degrees F and then dip it in for a while and watch it bubble. It worked really really well! I am happy with the look of the part. Now I need to blast my hood hinges and do them.
Here are a few pics of the progression from painted, to blasted, to plated. Last picture shows it near the satin black of the engine bay to get an idea of the contrast. I have to say it looks even better in person, the camera (flash or no flash) has a hard time conveying the color, but it looks *right*.
As it came out of the car:
   
After bead blast:
   
After Phosphating:
   
Contrast to the car:
   
~Jim
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#2
Very nice work and thank you for sharing your results. I read about the process in Mustang Monthly this month and will be anxious to try it out on my car as well
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#3
Looks pretty dang sharp, Jim. How much is that pint?

Doc

Doc

[Image: 6y14ea.jpg]

Project started 8-7-10
Completed: All new suspension, rebuilt 351C H Code bored .030 over with mild cam and intake, new 3.50 TracLok, custom exhaust system
Current "mini-project": interior upgrade Undecided
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#4
Looks good! I may have to give that a try!

[Image: 1gq8uo.png]
1971 Mach 1 - 306cid/C4 Bright Yellow
"Just relax, I've got a friend named Felix who can fix anything!" ~James Bond
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#5
73vertproject;14444 Wrote:Looks pretty dang sharp, Jim. How much is that pint?

Doc

It is $20.50 a pint, plus shipping. Shipping seems to vary as I think there are some chemical charges involved. Shipping for me to Ohio was $9. Remember that pint makes you 4 gallons of stuff, and it is reusable. If you have a mustang buddy or a club in the area splitting the cost and having a "Parkerizing Party" would make great sense.

Now I am trying to determine what else gets phospahted. I think most of the underhood sheetmetal bolts do. This is too much fun to stop.
~Jim
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#6
Looks real good. Read the same article in Mustang Monthly.
Jim

drive it like you stole it
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#7
honestly.. it´s fantastic!! it maybe similar process than the one using in guns, dont you think??
Doesn´t it need any clear coat or something to protect from rust??
Thanks for this tip!!



Damián Cool

[Image: 120x45bk1ani.gif]
Vote For 7173Mustangs.Com Every Day!
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#8
What did you use to "boil" the solution and do you have a pot big enough to fit the hinges?
Can you dip half of the hinge and then flip it over?
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#9
f117rt;14492 Wrote:What did you use to "boil" the solution and do you have a pot big enough to fit the hinges?
Can you dip half of the hinge and then flip it over?

I did the boil method, 190-200 degrees so just below boiling. I had a square stainless pan (non-kitchen use) that was perfect size for the latch. After much debating I went ahead and did it in the kitchen with the vent hood fan on high and the windows open. There really was no noticeable smell (even according to the wife). That said it occurred to me later that the side burner on the outdoor grille would be perfect!

I am trying to figure out how to do the hinges still. I may be able to collapse them small enough after removing the springs. If not, I may go to a plastic tub with a submersible heater. I'll let you know.

The oil still needs applied, many use a wipe of clean motor oil and reapply twice a year or so (I always have some to clean up during an oil change, so that might be a good interval).

I just realized my Mustangs Monthly subscription has slipped, as I do not recall seeing this in there. What issue was it in? On the MM subject….
Has anyone collected all of the Jeff Ford Lazarus articles in one tidy package? I have most of the issues, but did miss one or two during a similar subscription lapse. I would love to have just those articles listed out and put on a CD for reference...

EDIT: I did a search on the Mustang Monthly Lazarus project and they have a page listing most of the articles here(you do have to wait throught the ad). Now I just need to see if I have them all. Major hi-jack of my own thread here. Maybe this is worthy of its own.
Full article pg 2 here:
http://mustangmonthly.automotive.com/440...STITIAL_15

List from the article:
November 1996 pg. 20 Street Sleeper Cleveland
December 1997 pg. 59 Classic Cleveland Buildup
April 1998 pg. 42 Quarter-Panel Install
June 1998 pg. 54 Chemical Strip and De-rust
October 1998 pg. 24 Rear Axle-Housing Detail
January 1998 pg. 31 351 Cleveland Detailing
March 1999 pg. 80 Tilt Column Detail
May 1999 pg. 46 Taillight Housing
June 1999 pg. 58 Four-Speed Detailing
July 1999 pg. 73 Wheels and Tires
August 1999 pg. 56 Driveshaft Rebuild
October 1999 pg. 62 Prep for Paint
January 2000 pg. 66 Front Disc Brakes
February 2000 pg. 68 Suspension Detail
April 2000 pg. 43 Headliner Install
May 2000 pg. 66 How to: Glue in Glass
August 2000 pg. 72 How to: Roller Cam
October 2000 pg. 60 Engine Bay Detailing
November 2000 pg. 64 Dash Panel Assembly
December 2000 pg. 78 Door Assembly
January 2001 pg. 59 Interior Install
March 2001 pg. 55 SportsRoof Trunk
June 2001 pg. 72 Sport Stripes Detail


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Continued my Mustang Monthly search, and found that the phosphating article is online, and well done...here it is:
http://www.mustangmonthly.com/howto/mump...index.html
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#10
72Q-code,

I have all of the Lazarus articles and have set them aside for my resto. If you would like to PM me with your address I can put them on a disc for you. I will be traveling next week so it will need to be the week after that. I also explored the parkerizing and found several gun related websites that sell the same materials a little bit cheaper tham palmeto. I will be doing the same treatment to several of my parts. If you are an MCA member you can go to their website and download the judging rules for your year and it will indicate what pieces are oil phosphate treated. I plan to follow those for my restoration. Thanks for the advice last week regarding my weld cleanup questions. I have started on it this past weekend after scraping a pile of undercoating off with a heat gun. Next is to apply Rust Bullett and Lizardskin the interior floor pan and wheelhouses.

BKDunha
72 Mach 1 H-Code (Concourse driven restoration)
67 S-Code Factory GT with 4-Spd

68 Mercury Cyclone (Pro-Street project)
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