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Pertronix Ignitor III
#1
In my original build plan I was thinking MSD box and distributor. I am considering an Ignitor III distributor instead to eliminate a box to fail. The ignitor module is small enough to keep a spare in the car in case of failure.

Anyone have experience (good or bad) with the Ignitor III set-up?
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#2
I had issues with the III. as have other members here. the II is a much better unit. My III could not keep timing after about 2-3 months. It would jump all over the place like it was loose or something. Didn't matter what I tried, including replacing it.

'73 Grandé H Code. Headman long tube headers, T-5 Transmission, 3.70 Traclok, Lowered 1" all around, Aussie 2v heads w/ 2.19 intake, 1.71 exhaust, screw in studs, full roller cam 608/612 lift 280/281 duration LSA 112, Quick Fuel 750 CFM double pumper, AirGap intake.

'73 F code convertible. Bright red. Needs total restore. (IE HOT MESS)

- Jason
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#3
UNLESS Pertronix have redesigned the plastic bushing between the two plates, DO NOT BUY THIS ONE!!
I bought one about 4 years ago and it failed because the stupid plastic bushing was so loose, it actually caused the air gap to close completely, and along with other factors that are too lengthy to go into right now, it was the direct cause of a load of ignition issues which were clearly seem on a distributor machine. I sent mine back to Pertronix and they, without admitting fault, replaced it with an Ignitor II AND matching coil. I am still running this today and is faultless. There was nothing wrong with the electronics as far as I could determine with the PIII, it was a poor mechanical design. By now, they may have redesign it, I don't know. If they have, it would be a good buy, if not stay away from it.
Also, not knowing your engine or distributor, you will very likely need to alter the amount of crankshaft degree rotation. What I mean is most reman or even stock Autolite, Motorcraft distributors are set with 30 degrees on the crank. A 351C typically runs best with only 20 deg. on the crank in order to be able to advance the initial timing from about 6 deg. to 14-16 deg. vacuum plugged off. Add in only about 4-6 deg vacuum on top and your motor will run like a charm without spark rattle on crappy ethanol low octane (91) fuel.
There have been many post on rebuilding a stock distributor and I have detailed my own experience learning just how to do it. However, dumb-ass me deleted all the pictures from my posts (you may have read about that!!) I'll be happy to go over that procedure again if you need it.
My choice would be to go for the Pertronix Ignitor II and coil. Don't forget also, you'll need a full 12 volts to run it. Your choices are cut and bypass the pink resistor wire or I believe Pertronix make a relay that will do the job without cutting the pink wire. Check that out.
Geoff.
EDIT: The reference to the Pertronix Ignitor III is for the Ford unit only.

I learn something new every day!
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#4
(01-11-2019, 10:46 AM)73pony Wrote: I had issues with the III. as have other members here. the II is a much better unit. My III could not keep timing after about 2-3 months. It would jump all over the place like it was loose or something. Didn't matter what I tried, including replacing it.

 That exactly what mine was doing. Bushing failure. Totally agree.
Geoff.

I learn something new every day!
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#5
The relay Geoff mentions to get the 12v is a good idea. I use one and it works great and no cutting and splicing original wires.

'73 Grandé H Code. Headman long tube headers, T-5 Transmission, 3.70 Traclok, Lowered 1" all around, Aussie 2v heads w/ 2.19 intake, 1.71 exhaust, screw in studs, full roller cam 608/612 lift 280/281 duration LSA 112, Quick Fuel 750 CFM double pumper, AirGap intake.

'73 F code convertible. Bright red. Needs total restore. (IE HOT MESS)

- Jason
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