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Pertronix and Factory Tach
#11
(08-04-2018, 07:45 PM)cheezsnake Wrote: Completed this project today.  Car starts and runs good.  Still needs a road test.  But, for those using a P1 with factory tach and aftermarket carburetor, I thought I’d share what worked for me. I believe the brown wire may have originally connected to the solenoid on the factory carb. I repurposed it to feed the Pertronix relay. On my car, the voltage on this wire varies from 10-12 volts, but the relay works fine. The red wire I connected to the battery post on the starter solenoid. Thanks again for all the input.
[Image: E75_DA215_273_E_43_FD_8519_9417_F524_A2_A5.jpg]

So the P1 and F1 with existing wiring and tach didn't work?  (ref Don C's post 7/30/18) 

Are you using a Flamethrower coil or existing?  And how is this different from the instructions provided with the Ignition Power Relay? I would guess it's the source of the switched power to the relay...?

Since it's now a year later, how'd it work out for you?
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#12
Find my thread on this.  I had so much trouble trying to get my new engine to run with the Ignitor III and Flamethrower coil that I eventually just returned them.  Back to points and my car starts consistently so I can have the confidence to break the motor in.

kcmash
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#13
(07-11-2019, 09:51 PM)kcmash Wrote: Find my thread on this.  I had so much trouble trying to get my new engine to run with the Ignitor III and Flamethrower coil that I eventually just returned them.  Back to points and my car starts consistently so I can have the confidence to break the motor in.

kcmash

Oh.  That's a little disappointing.  But I'm trying with the stock carb and the Ignitor I, so it's too soon to give up.  Will search out your other thread.
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#14
Most people on our forum that use it have had good luck with P1, most that have tried P3 have returned them or thrown them in the trash, bad design on the adapter base.

With the P1 all you have to do is remove the points and replace them with the module, no wiring changes or changes to the tachometer. If you want to use the Flamethrower coil with it get the one for reduced voltage (resistor wire/ballast systems) that has 1.5 ohms internal resistance. You can also run the P1 on full battery voltage, using Cheezsnake's wiring diagram, just make sure you use the 1.5 ohm coil.



“If you can't explain it simply, you don't understand it well enough.”
--Albert Einstein
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#15
(07-12-2019, 08:18 AM)Don C Wrote: Most people on our forum that use it have had good luck with P1, most that have tried P3 have returned them or thrown them in the trash, bad design on the adapter base.

With the P1 all you have to do is remove the points and replace them with the module, no wiring changes or changes to the tachometer. If you want to use the Flamethrower coil with it get the one for reduced voltage (resistor wire/ballast systems) that has 1.5 ohms internal resistance. You can also run the P1 on full battery voltage, using Cheezsnake's wiring diagram, just make sure you use the 1.5 ohm coil.

Thanks — I’m hoping you’re right. Returning now to the Pertronix page to see if the FlameThrower is a 1.5 ohm coil. Plan b: use the original coil.
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#16
Yes as stated many times the PIII is absolute junk (I tired one too, lasted all of about 200 miles before the timing would vary all over the place). The P1 and P2 are good solid units.

73 Grandé H Code. Headman long tube headers, T-5 Transmission, 3.70 Traclok, Lowered 1" all around, Aussie 2v heads w/ 2.19 intake, 1.71 exhaust, screw in studs, full roller cam 608/612 lift 280/281 duration LSA 112, Quick Fuel 750 CFM double pumper, AirGap intake.

- Jason


[Image: 082-hot-rod-power-tour-2017-1970-1970s.jpg]
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#17
(07-12-2019, 09:28 AM)RC92234 Wrote:
(07-12-2019, 08:18 AM)Don C Wrote: Most people on our forum that use it have had good luck with P1, most that have tried P3 have returned them or thrown them in the trash, bad design on the adapter base.

With the P1 all you have to do is remove the points and replace them with the module, no wiring changes or changes to the tachometer. If you want to use the Flamethrower coil with it get the one for reduced voltage (resistor wire/ballast systems) that has 1.5 ohms internal resistance. You can also run the P1 on full battery voltage, using Cheezsnake's wiring diagram, just make sure you use the 1.5 ohm coil.

Thanks — I’m hoping you’re right. Returning now to the Pertronix page to see if the FlameThrower is a 1.5 ohm coil. Plan b: use the original coil.

Check!  1.5 ohms.

[Image: Screen-Shot-2019-07-12-at-8-54-02-AM.png]
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#18
You shouldn't need to use the relay if you're running the P1, it's designed as a direct drop in points replacement.


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#19
(08-04-2018, 07:45 PM)cheezsnake Wrote: Completed this project today.  Car starts and runs good.  Still needs a road test.  But, for those using a P1 with factory tach and aftermarket carburetor, I thought I’d share what worked for me. I believe the brown wire may have originally connected to the solenoid on the factory carb. I repurposed it to feed the Pertronix relay. On my car, the voltage on this wire varies from 10-12 volts, but the relay works fine. The red wire I connected to the battery post on the starter solenoid. Thanks again for all the input.
[Image: E75_DA215_273_E_43_FD_8519_9417_F524_A2_A5.jpg]
I'm in the process of wiring up my car with the Pertronix distributor to the 2001 and my flamethrower coil to the Red/green wire.  Just thought I'd check in and see if your car is still running good set up this way.  Pertronix says not to do it this way, and people I've mentioned it to have never heard of it working.  So, again, just checking in.
Thanks

1969 Acapulco Blue Convertible
     408C CJ, 5 Spd
1973 Lava Red Mach 1
     Being restored - 351C, 4V, AOD
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#20
(01-16-2020, 12:43 PM)dfayette Wrote:
(08-04-2018, 07:45 PM)cheezsnake Wrote: Completed this project today.  Car starts and runs good.  Still needs a road test.  But, for those using a P1 with factory tach and aftermarket carburetor, I thought I’d share what worked for me. I believe the brown wire may have originally connected to the solenoid on the factory carb. I repurposed it to feed the Pertronix relay. On my car, the voltage on this wire varies from 10-12 volts, but the relay works fine. The red wire I connected to the battery post on the starter solenoid. Thanks again for all the input.
[Image: E75_DA215_273_E_43_FD_8519_9417_F524_A2_A5.jpg]
I'm in the process of wiring up my car with the Pertronix distributor to the 2001 and my flamethrower coil to the Red/green wire.  Just thought I'd check in and see if your car is still running good set up this way.  Pertronix says not to do it this way, and people I've mentioned it to have never heard of it working.  So, again, just checking in.
Thanks
Thanks for checking... I am so far from this point.  I've been waiting since July, yes, seriously, to get my rebuilt power steering pump back.  It did come back in December, but it was not my pump and did not fit.  Basically, I'm down to just the block with an alternator.

Now considering it a goner and maybe for all the time I've wasted waiting I could have long ago purchased a new one.  But those fitting issues - argh.
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