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Parts list for my 351C 1983 Rebuild
#1
I  was wondering if  anyone  had any thoughts on my motor build and help identifying a  part  number.    


I recently found the  rebuild receipt that  came with my  72  Mach  1.   The motor is a 351C and the parts list date is 9/2/1983.   Since  the  car sat for  30 years it is a  fairly  fresh  motor so  I figured I'd leave  it  alone.     The  CAM is  a Sealed  Power CS-173R and based on  what  I've found,  it explains the lope.

After a few hours  on the  web,  I  was able  to  identify all  of  the parts  of  the rebuild  except for the  (what I think) are the pistons.

I was  wondering  if  anyone here might know  where  to point me  or  if the  part number  on  the  list makes sense.

It  is listed as Sealed  Power  2403P-30

I was able to find all of the  other parts based on the person's handwriting,  but  not this one.    I've found  WL-2403 and  others that are close.   

Any help or recommendations  as to  the build  is  welcome!  Thanks!


[Image: Rebuild_Parts.png]


[Image: SP173_Spcs.jpg]
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#2
closest I see are speed pro pistons and those are for gm, is it possible the mechanic was dyslexic and meant to write 4032 as in a sealed power forged 4032 piston?
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#3
The only reason I can see that the Chevy pistons were installed is that rod length was changed, either because the builder believed that GM had a better idea or the engine was stroked. There may be another parts list you don't have that shows rods and crankshaft.



“If you can't explain it simply, you don't understand it well enough.”
--Albert Einstein
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#4
I actually  knew the guys  that did  the build and they were huge Ford/Cougar 351W guys.  They convinced the guy who had it rebuilt to put in the aftermarket  Sealed Power  Boss 351-like cam .    Who knows if they would've used Chevy parts but not a bad idea to figure out the part number.  

But, I'm starting to think that the parts counter guy wrote it down wrong.
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#5
(01-21-2018, 05:26 PM)mrmolding Wrote: I actually  knew the guys  that did  the build and they were huge Ford/Cougar 351W guys.  They convinced the guy who had it rebuilt to put in the aftermarket  Sealed Power  Boss 351-like cam .    Who knows if they would've used Chevy parts but not a bad idea to figure out the part number.  

But, I'm starting to think that the parts counter guy wrote it down wrong.

that's entirely possible too, if you really wanna know you can borescope it and look at the top and see if you see anything unique, other than that you might just have to crack it open. I cant think of a reason you really need to know for sure since you know the cam specs. If its good i'd just go with it and worry about it in 150k miles.
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#6
(01-21-2018, 03:37 PM)Don C Wrote: The only reason I can see that the Chevy pistons were installed is that rod length was changed, either because the builder believed that GM had a better idea or the engine was stroked. There may be another parts list you don't have that shows rods and crankshaft.

So I found a GM similar piston to the part number -- SEALED POWER L2403NF and I get your point about no rods or crankshaft in the  receipt.   Thanks!
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#7
The -30 signifies that it was bored 0.030 over.



“If you can't explain it simply, you don't understand it well enough.”
--Albert Einstein
  Reply
#8
(01-21-2018, 05:54 PM)libram Wrote:
(01-21-2018, 05:26 PM)mrmolding Wrote: I actually  knew the guys  that did  the build and they were huge Ford/Cougar 351W guys.  They convinced the guy who had it rebuilt to put in the aftermarket  Sealed Power  Boss 351-like cam .    Who knows if they would've used Chevy parts but not a bad idea to figure out the part number.  

But, I'm starting to think that the parts counter guy wrote it down wrong.

that's entirely possible too, if you really wanna know you can borescope it and look at the top and see if you see anything unique, other than that you might just have to crack it open. I cant think of a reason you really need to know for sure since you know the cam specs. If its good i'd just go with it and worry about it in 150k miles.

I  think we have a winner on this one!  I'll enjoy it!  I've been having really bad un-burnt fuel smell issues (I don't mind it, but the fam doesn't like riding in it)  and I  wanted to see if  I could dig up info on the cam, etc from the parts list.   I've set the idle mixture, timing is pretty much perfect, the only thing left is the jets -- it's an Edelbrock 1406 600 carb.  

But, since I posted the original post, I put in NGKs from Autolites and gapped a little larger due to Pertronix I/Flamethrower 40K and it has come alive.  Wow, what a difference.  It starts almost like an EFI car.     The odor is much less, but still present.  I guess I'll be driving solo!

Thanks again everyone!
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#9
(01-21-2018, 06:31 PM)Don C Wrote: The -30 signifies that it was bored 0.030 over.

Ahh!  Thanks for that.   Right in front of me!
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#10
(01-21-2018, 06:33 PM)mrmolding Wrote:
(01-21-2018, 05:54 PM)libram Wrote:
(01-21-2018, 05:26 PM)mrmolding Wrote: I actually  knew the guys  that did  the build and they were huge Ford/Cougar 351W guys.  They convinced the guy who had it rebuilt to put in the aftermarket  Sealed Power  Boss 351-like cam .    Who knows if they would've used Chevy parts but not a bad idea to figure out the part number.  

But, I'm starting to think that the parts counter guy wrote it down wrong.

that's entirely possible too, if you really wanna know you can borescope it and look at the top and see if you see anything unique, other than that you might just have to crack it open. I cant think of a reason you really need to know for sure since you know the cam specs. If its good i'd just go with it and worry about it in 150k miles.

I  think we have a winner on this one!  I'll enjoy it!  I've been having really bad un-burnt fuel smell issues (I don't mind it, but the fam doesn't like riding in it)  and I  wanted to see if  I could dig up info on the cam, etc from the parts list.   I've set the idle mixture, timing is pretty much perfect, the only thing left is the jets -- it's an Edelbrock 1406 600 carb.  

But, since I posted the original post, I put in NGKs from Autolites and gapped a little larger due to Pertronix I/Flamethrower 40K and it has come alive.  Wow, what a difference.  It starts almost like an EFI car.     The odor is much less, but still present.  I guess I'll be driving solo!

Thanks again everyone!

the fuel vapor canister can be a culprit in heavy fuel odor too,
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