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painting engine compartment
#1
Getting ready to sand down the engine compartment and all the parts inside and was wondering what's a good primer and paint to use (preferably in a can don't have a air compressor yet)? Satin,gloss, etc?
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#2
I used Rustoleum metal etching primer, and rustoleum automotive paint satin black, its actually pretty tough stuff, I have had a few leaks and everything wiped clean with no scratches. I think the trick is to let it cure for a couple weeks before doing anything with it.
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#3
I used SPI black epoxy and let it that way. Turned out perfect and is very durable!

- Jim
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#4
You might want to check out the Preval system. Inexpensive, but you can purchase urethane or any other true automotive paint from your local paint supplier and apply it using these sprayers. You'll still need to mix any hardeners, thinners, etc. It's recommended you practice on something non-essential to learn how it sprays since I've found the spray can be much heavier (sags, etc) than any paint can.

Replacement CO2 cartridges are only a couple bucks so I usually have one or two extra standing by. Not as effective as a decent gun and compressor, but a step up from cans

https://preval.com/
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#5
Duplicolor DE 1635 semi-gloss engine paint is close in being the correct sheen and is reasonably durable and adhesion is good if the surface is properly prepared. There is an epoxy black primer available from these people http://www.rubber-seal.com/default.asp. I've not used the product so I can't say how close the sheen is to original. I suspect it would be too flat. Chuck
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#6
I agree with Omieo1 if you are going to use rattle cans. A couple suggestions. Wash the area around the battery tray with baking soda to kill the acid that is always present from the battery charging. If you go to bare metal you should use something to etch the surface to get better adhesion. The self etching primer is some help. As always wash with lots of hot soapy water using Dawn dishwashing and then a wipe down with lacquer thinner and then a metal prep before priming. The actual paint that Ford used under the hood was quite rough and did not have a smooth surface and I have never found anything that looks like it.
David


When a man is in the woods and talks and no women are there is he still wrong??
Tongue
David
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#7
I have used Sherwin Williams E2B931, 3.5, black epoxy primer and found it to be VERY close. Just my experience. Chuck
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#8
Thanks guys going with the Rustoleum primer
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#9
What do u guys recommend after final coat of paint? Do you clear coat it, is there a sealer you put on it or just leave it?
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#10
I would just leave it, clear has no pigment so it does not last as long as color. Most of our cars see little use after paint so nobody really worries that much. You might go around the seams with sealer to keep the water out. I assume you have the front fenders off and grill. You will see big cracks in the sealer around where the inner fender meets the firewall and the torque boxes and all the seams. I scrape this off and apply POR 15 or any good rust preventative. then put seam sealer back on and spray the undercoat back on that I scraped off. If you do not do this our biggest enemy, water, will get in all the cracks and there goes the rust. All the metal in these cars was raw steel so if it is not protected it will rust. You can also clean up the splash guards under the fenders. After getting all the tar and goop off them I blast them with walnut shells at low pressure and then spray satin clear on them and they look new. I just switched computers so I cannot put pic on might see if I can later today. When doing a spruce up not restore I have to keep telling myself "This is not a show car". If I don't I will have the whole car laying in the floor.
A little time now saves days and weeks later.
David


When a man is in the woods and talks and no women are there is he still wrong??
Tongue
David
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