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Painters Therapy
#1
Any experienced painters out there that can suggest effective techniques to emotionally deal with repeated paint screw ups? I almost took a hammer to the car today. Doing final buff when I notice a "shadow" (read through the clear) on the door. After I reattached my head to my shoulders, I masked the entire car, AGAIN, blew some base coat on the door. Thank God it didn't react badly with the clear, THIS time. Let dry. Time for clear coat. Adjusted pressure, pattern, and fluid. First coat looked a little dry, upped the fluid. Second coat looked good. Time to wait. 20 minutes later I go back to the garage. RUNS, SAGS, and ORANGE PEEL!!!! I almost had a S_ _T FIT. Sooo, if any painters have advice on dealing with the near insanity caused by this sort of stuff please let me know what they are. I may self medicate with some old man Jack and High Life until I hear from you.

P.S. After painting this car I now know why paint jobs cost so much, Psychiatrist fees!
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#2
c9zx;15701 Wrote:Any experienced painters out there that can suggest effective techniques to emotionally deal with repeated paint screw ups? I almost took a hammer to the car today. Doing final buff when I notice a "shadow" (read through the clear) on the door. After I reattached my head to my shoulders, I masked the entire car, AGAIN, blew some base coat on the door. Thank God it didn't react badly with the clear, THIS time. Let dry. Time for clear coat. Adjusted pressure, pattern, and fluid. First coat looked a little dry, upped the fluid. Second coat looked good. Time to wait. 20 minutes later I go back to the garage. RUNS, SAGS, and ORANGE PEEL!!!! I almost had a S_ _T FIT. Sooo, if any painters have advice on dealing with the near insanity caused by this sort of stuff please let me know what they are. I may self medicate with some old man Jack and High Life until I hear from you.

P.S. After painting this car I now know why paint jobs cost so much, Psychiatrist fees!
Yep..it's called step back & take a chill....What clear are u using ? & what temperature are u spraying at ? The biggest mistakes, people make is not allowing the proper flash time for the product , not using the correct clear for the application, not using the correct reducer for the temperature & not using the correct fluid tip for the product being sprayed..if you used an overall 2k clear when you did the repair on the door there's your problem since you only painted a panel...which requires a spot or panel clear..what happened to you is all part of the game or learning curve..stuff like this you only learn after years of experience (I have over 25+ years in the a/b business & painting was my main area of expertise) If your spraying in a garage or homemade booth you need a infrared digital thermometer to check METAL temperature not room temperature & a timer (to time flash exactly as per the instructions) Watch my epoxy primer vid & you will see how the pro's do it... & heres the clear I would have used for what you described..Welcome to the wonderful world of painting cars..you just paid some of your duesCool heres what you need to remove the runs ..My secret weapon ! WORKS AWSOME !!!! You need both corse & fine..saved me many a redo !
http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/p...374_369374
http://www.southernpolyurethanes.com/tec..._Clear.pdf
http://www.southernpolyurethanes.com/index.htm
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S4PVATPY94o




LOVE OF BEAUTY IS TASTE..THE CREATION OF BEAUTY IS ART
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#3
Guess all I can offer is sympathy... I'd offer Gentleman Jack if you were closeby! I haven't painted anything (yet!). I suppose I'm in for some trying moments as well. At least it's just one door?

Try again tomorrow. Wink
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#4
I know it's small consolation, but if I end up spraying my car now I know what to look for!

Steve



[Image: 25yvyp3.jpg]
  Reply
#5
Qcode351mach;15716 Wrote:
c9zx;15701 Wrote:Any experienced painters out there that can suggest effective techniques to emotionally deal with repeated paint screw ups? I almost took a hammer to the car today. Doing final buff when I notice a "shadow" (read through the clear) on the door. After I reattached my head to my shoulders, I masked the entire car, AGAIN, blew some base coat on the door. Thank God it didn't react badly with the clear, THIS time. Let dry. Time for clear coat. Adjusted pressure, pattern, and fluid. First coat looked a little dry, upped the fluid. Second coat looked good. Time to wait. 20 minutes later I go back to the garage. RUNS, SAGS, and ORANGE PEEL!!!! I almost had a S_ _T FIT. Sooo, if any painters have advice on dealing with the near insanity caused by this sort of stuff please let me know what they are. I may self medicate with some old man Jack and High Life until I hear from you.

P.S. After painting this car I now know why paint jobs cost so much, Psychiatrist fees!
Yep..it's called step back & take a chill....What clear are u using ? & what temperature are u spraying at ? The biggest mistakes, people make is not allowing the proper flash time for the product , not using the correct clear for the application, not using the correct reducer for the temperature & not using the correct fluid tip for the product being sprayed..if you used an overall 2k clear when you did the repair on the door there's your problem since you only painted a panel...which requires a spot or panel clear..what happened to you is all part of the game or learning curve..stuff like this you only learn after years of experience (I have over 25+ years in the a/b business & painting was my main area of expertise) If your spraying in a garage or homemade booth you need a infrared digital thermometer to check METAL temperature not room temperature & a timer (to time flash exactly as per the instructions) Watch my epoxy primer vid & you will see how the pro's do it... & heres the clear I would have used for what you described..Welcome to the wonderful world of painting cars..you just paid some of your duesCool heres what you need to remove the runs ..My secret weapon ! WORKS AWSOME !!!! You need both corse & fine..saved me many a redo !
http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/p...374_369374
http://www.southernpolyurethanes.com/tec..._Clear.pdf
http://www.southernpolyurethanes.com/index.htm
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S4PVATPY94o
Thanks for the advice. The clear was Kustom repair Ultra clear (no reducer), which I would recommend to no one. Although to be fair I have done several repairs with it. The re-coat sensitivity of the base (restoration shop) with the clear is insane (read wrinkle finish). I will be buying the tools you identified. Lord knows I've spent hours with a block and 2000 grit to do the other repairs. This has been a project that I decided I would learn new things. I learned I can paint but, I don't think I want to. I think I'll stick to the mechanical/electrical things. One of the lesson has to be, don't try to save on the materials. Past small jobs I've done with DuPont, Ditzler, and PPG products did not have the drama. I am working in my garage and I do have an infrared thermometer, although I didn't think to use it. AND I did neglect to change the tip in the gun to the 1.4. Now that I have confessed my sins may the paint gods forgive me and not let me be foolish enough to do this again. I bow to all good car painters. It is not witchcraft and voodo but it is art, skill, and experience. Thanks for taking the time to respond.

Chcuk

71_badmach;15718 Wrote:Guess all I can offer is sympathy... I'd offer Gentleman Jack if you were closeby! I haven't painted anything (yet!). I suppose I'm in for some trying moments as well. At least it's just one door?

Try again tomorrow. Wink
Thanks for the moral support. I did used to receive, as a gift, some excellent "home made remedy" from northern Alabama. Let me know if I can help before you start to paint. Better yet ask Qcode, he actuallly knows what he is doing.

Chuck
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#6
Qcode351mach;15716 Wrote:
c9zx;15701 Wrote:Any experienced painters out there that can suggest effective techniques to emotionally deal with repeated paint screw ups? I almost took a hammer to the car today. Doing final buff when I notice a "shadow" (read through the clear) on the door. After I reattached my head to my shoulders, I masked the entire car, AGAIN, blew some base coat on the door. Thank God it didn't react badly with the clear, THIS time. Let dry. Time for clear coat. Adjusted pressure, pattern, and fluid. First coat looked a little dry, upped the fluid. Second coat looked good. Time to wait. 20 minutes later I go back to the garage. RUNS, SAGS, and ORANGE PEEL!!!! I almost had a S_ _T FIT. Sooo, if any painters have advice on dealing with the near insanity caused by this sort of stuff please let me know what they are. I may self medicate with some old man Jack and High Life until I hear from you.

P.S. After painting this car I now know why paint jobs cost so much, Psychiatrist fees!
Yep..it's called step back & take a chill....What clear are u using ? & what temperature are u spraying at ? The biggest mistakes, people make is not allowing the proper flash time for the product , not using the correct clear for the application, not using the correct reducer for the temperature & not using the correct fluid tip for the product being sprayed..if you used an overall 2k clear when you did the repair on the door there's your problem since you only painted a panel...which requires a spot or panel clear..what happened to you is all part of the game or learning curve..stuff like this you only learn after years of experience (I have over 25+ years in the a/b business & painting was my main area of expertise) If your spraying in a garage or homemade booth you need a infrared digital thermometer to check METAL temperature not room temperature & a timer (to time flash exactly as per the instructions) Watch my epoxy primer vid & you will see how the pro's do it... & heres the clear I would have used for what you described..Welcome to the wonderful world of painting cars..you just paid some of your duesCool heres what you need to remove the runs ..My secret weapon ! WORKS AWSOME !!!! You need both corse & fine..saved me many a redo !
http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/p...374_369374
http://www.southernpolyurethanes.com/tec..._Clear.pdf
http://www.southernpolyurethanes.com/index.htm
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S4PVATPY94o


The Southern Poly looks like a great product. Thanks for putting me on to them. As an update I did manage to salvage the door without a redo. That was the last of the body and paint work, thank God. I don't think I could stand any more at the moment. Again, thanks for the information and help.

Chuck

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#7

The Southern Poly looks like a great product. Thanks for putting me on to them. As an update I did manage to salvage the door without a redo. That was the last of the body and paint work, thank God. I don't think I could stand any more at the moment. Again, thanks for the information and help.

Chuck

[/quote]

Glad you got it!

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#8
ITS ALITTLE LATE. BUT FOR SOME REASON I JUST SAW YOUR POST. YOU ARE ONLY EXPERIENCING WHAT EVERYONE HAS. I REMEMBER ONE TIME WHEN I WORKED AT A CADDILAC DEALERSHIP, WE WERE STILL USUNG ACRYLIC ENAMELS AND I PAINTED A CAR, THOUGHT IT LOOKED GREAT, WALKED OUT HAD A SMOKE CAME BACK AND DIED. I GOT 5 GAL CAN OF REDUCER AND STARTED WASHING IT OFF BY HAND. IT HAPPENS.. DONT KNOW YOUR COLOR BUT LIGHT HIGH METALLICS ARE THE WORST FOR SHADOWS. ( LIKE SILVER) IT COMES FROM THE OVERLAP OF YOUR SPRAY PATTERN. ONE PLACE WET AND THE NEXT DRY, METALLICS CAN BE COLOR ADJUSTED TO DIFFERENT SHADES BY HOW WET YOU SPRAY IT. DRY SPRAY, LIGHTER COLOR, WET SPRAY DARKER COLOR. THATS THE SECRET TO MATCHING SPOT REPAIRS. ALTHO YOU DO STILL NEED A GOOD COLOR MIX FOR SPOT REPAIR. ON COLORS LIKE THAT SOMETIMES I CHANGE DIRECTION OF MY PATTERN, GO LONG WAYS ONCE THEN CROSSWAYS, THEN BACK LONGWAY JUST TO TRY TO EVEN THINGS OUT. YOUR REDUCER AND TEMP WILL HAVE AN EFFECT,BUT MOST HAVE A RANGE OF TEMP USAGE, LIKE 60 TO 75 DEGREES. I GUESS IF I HAD TO MAKE ONE SUGGESTION TO A BEGINNER I WOULD SAY START WITH A REDUCER THAT HAS A MEDIUM DRYING RATE. A SLOW DRYING REDUCER WILL RUN FAST IF ITS TO WET. THE TRICK BEING GETTING IT AS WET AS POSSIBLE FOR FLOW, BUT NOT ENOUGH TO RUN. AGAIN IT HAPPENS TO EVERYONE. I PAINTED MY FIRST CAR AT 15, LOOKED PRETTY GOOD. DESTROYED THE SECOND ONE, AND LEARNED FROM THERE. IM NOW 61 SO I HAVE SEEN A FEW SUCCESES AND FAILURES ANYONE WHO SAYS THEY HAVENT IS NOT A NICE PERSON.
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#9
PAPPY HAROLD;20530 Wrote:ITS ALITTLE LATE. BUT FOR SOME REASON I JUST SAW YOUR POST. YOU ARE ONLY EXPERIENCING WHAT EVERYONE HAS. I REMEMBER ONE TIME WHEN I WORKED AT A CADDILAC DEALERSHIP, WE WERE STILL USUNG ACRYLIC ENAMELS AND I PAINTED A CAR, THOUGHT IT LOOKED GREAT, WALKED OUT HAD A SMOKE CAME BACK AND DIED. I GOT 5 GAL CAN OF REDUCER AND STARTED WASHING IT OFF BY HAND. IT HAPPENS.. DONT KNOW YOUR COLOR BUT LIGHT HIGH METALLICS ARE THE WORST FOR SHADOWS. ( LIKE SILVER) IT COMES FROM THE OVERLAP OF YOUR SPRAY PATTERN. ONE PLACE WET AND THE NEXT DRY, METALLICS CAN BE COLOR ADJUSTED TO DIFFERENT SHADES BY HOW WET YOU SPRAY IT. DRY SPRAY, LIGHTER COLOR, WET SPRAY DARKER COLOR. THATS THE SECRET TO MATCHING SPOT REPAIRS. ALTHO YOU DO STILL NEED A GOOD COLOR MIX FOR SPOT REPAIR. ON COLORS LIKE THAT SOMETIMES I CHANGE DIRECTION OF MY PATTERN, GO LONG WAYS ONCE THEN CROSSWAYS, THEN BACK LONGWAY JUST TO TRY TO EVEN THINGS OUT. YOUR REDUCER AND TEMP WILL HAVE AN EFFECT,BUT MOST HAVE A RANGE OF TEMP USAGE, LIKE 60 TO 75 DEGREES. I GUESS IF I HAD TO MAKE ONE SUGGESTION TO A BEGINNER I WOULD SAY START WITH A REDUCER THAT HAS A MEDIUM DRYING RATE. A SLOW DRYING REDUCER WILL RUN FAST IF ITS TO WET. THE TRICK BEING GETTING IT AS WET AS POSSIBLE FOR FLOW, BUT NOT ENOUGH TO RUN. AGAIN IT HAPPENS TO EVERYONE. I PAINTED MY FIRST CAR AT 15, LOOKED PRETTY GOOD. DESTROYED THE SECOND ONE, AND LEARNED FROM THERE. IM NOW 61 SO I HAVE SEEN A FEW SUCCESES AND FAILURES ANYONE WHO SAYS THEY HAVENT IS NOT A NICE PERSON.

Excellent info!

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#10
71_badmach;15718 Wrote:Guess all I can offer is sympathy... I'd offer Gentleman Jack if you were closeby! I haven't painted anything (yet!). I suppose I'm in for some trying moments as well. At least it's just one door?

Try again tomorrow. Wink

so just where are you in North Bama?Smile
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