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paint
#1
Today I was driving home from work heading North on the 15 in San Diego and saw a clean green fastback, it was soooo nice. It just makes me want to finish my coupe that much more!!! Does anyone in the San Diego area know of a paint shop that allows people to rent the booth out to do their own paint work? I really want to give this a try and don't think my neighbors or the EPA will like it too much if I do it in my driveway. Plus I don't have any equipment and don't have much room for it in the garage. Thanks everyone. Smile


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<img src="http://www.7173mustangs.com/gallery/1_12_09_14_10_32_45.png" />

- Nik
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#2
I hope you know the risks of isocyanides - and the protection required to work with them. Just a warning to the wise if you don't know of the dangers already.

If you don't, start Googling.

-Kurt

[Image: satellite-valiant-mustang-license-tags-signature.png]
How to buy a '71-73 Mustang:
Rule #1: Assume all classic car sellers are guilty until proven innocent.
Rule #2: No classic car dealer is ever innocent; thus, they are all guilty.
Rule #3: Buy from trustworthy people: Fellow forum members. Visit 7173Mustang's For Sale forum.
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#3
Yeah I was reading that waterborne paint, which I would be required to use here in California, is safer for the environment, but are inherently more dangerous for humans. This is why I am trying to find a paint booth to rent.

<img src="http://www.7173mustangs.com/gallery/1_12_09_14_10_32_45.png" />

- Nik
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#4
71_resurrection;166506 Wrote:Yeah I was reading that waterborne paint, which I would be required to use here in California, is safer for the environment, but are inherently more dangerous for humans. This is why I am trying to find a paint booth to rent.

Both are equally as dangerous and require full-suit forced-air injection.

Do yourself a favor and have someone else risk it. It'll be cheaper than paying a pro to show you all the ropes.

-Kurt

[Image: satellite-valiant-mustang-license-tags-signature.png]
How to buy a '71-73 Mustang:
Rule #1: Assume all classic car sellers are guilty until proven innocent.
Rule #2: No classic car dealer is ever innocent; thus, they are all guilty.
Rule #3: Buy from trustworthy people: Fellow forum members. Visit 7173Mustang's For Sale forum.
  Reply
#5
cudak888;166507 Wrote:
71_resurrection;166506 Wrote:Yeah I was reading that waterborne paint, which I would be required to use here in California, is safer for the environment, but are inherently more dangerous for humans. This is why I am trying to find a paint booth to rent.

Both are equally as dangerous and require full-suit forced-air injection.

Do yourself a favor and have someone else risk it. It'll be cheaper than paying a pro to show you all the ropes.

-Kurt

Kurt,
I've been spraying SPI primer on my approns, engine bay and still need to do my underside. I use a respirator but not a suit. Can you elaborate on the dangers. My biggest concern with doing my restoration is killing myself or looping off an appendage.
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#6
Rick Bacon, former host of Muscle Car, is moving back to Sonora very soon. I know it's not close to San Diego, though. He's been working on my F150, and will finish painting and buffing it out before he leaves Nashville. PM me if you're interested and I can get you in touch with him. Just a thought.

Ron
Rusty, a 1973 Mach 1, needs a lot of work.
Billy, a 1976 Ford Bronco, also needs a lot of work.
El Guapo, a 1986 F150, frame-off Resto-Mod.
Bubba, my 1994 F150, daily driver
Formerly, a 1973 Ford Mustang Coupe - a work in progress, then a car-b-qued banana.
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#7
sdstang;166514 Wrote:Kurt,
I've been spraying SPI primer on my approns, engine bay and still need to do my underside. I use a respirator but not a suit. Can you elaborate on the dangers. My biggest concern with doing my restoration is killing myself or looping off an appendage.

The HAMB has it covered:

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showt...hp?t=78946

AutoReWire's post (#14) is particularly noteworthy:

Quote:While cyanide is poisonous Isocyanides are only moderately toxic.

Isocyanates on the other hand are another beast.

But know this... there are different chemical compounds all commonly referred to as Isocyanates.

Overexposure to Methyl Isocyanate is what killed 3800 people in Bopal, India in 1984.

The chemicals used to harden polyurethane enamels are called Isocynates but are not near as deadly as Methyl Isocyanate. However there are chemical similarities. And they are all TOXIC.

The three main forms of Isocyanates used for polyurethane reaction are: TDI, MDI and HDI. These forms react with an alcohol to produce a urethane linkage. These compounds are reactive and therefore toxic and are known to cause asthma in humans, both through inhalation exposure and dermal contact.

The quickest way to become sensitized to Iso's is to breath them. What happens is the Iso reacts with water (moisture in your lungs) to become a polyurea. Polyurea is a hard plastic that is now in the lung tissue. Your body doesn't like this foreign object and starts to fight it like a bad bug.

The most common reaction is an asthmatic reaction where the bronchial tubes become inflamed and restrict, shutting off airflow.

If you are asthmatic and become sensitized you are in big trouble real quick. If you’re not asthmatic it will just take a little longer to become sensitized. Given enough exposure ALL persons will eventually become sensitized.

Dermal reactions take place in individuals who develop a dermal sensitive to the chemical. Blond haired, blue eyed, fair skinned people seem to suffer before person of darker complexion.

So there is only ONE way to deal with the new 2K Polyurethane Enamels. You MUST spray in an area with adequate ventilation to reduce exposure to the skin. You MUST use a forced air respirator and wear protective clothing and appropriate eye, and skin protection. A chemical cartridge respirator will not provide antiquate protection. A dust mask will KILL you. With Nitrocellulose lacquer you would just pickle your brain with enough exposure to the solvents but ISO’s will destroy your health real quick.

DON’T TAKE A CHANCE. DO IT RIGHT AND LIVE TO ENJOY THE GOOD LIFE.

Also post #11 here: http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showt...&showall=1

More: http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showt...t=urethane

-Kurt

[Image: satellite-valiant-mustang-license-tags-signature.png]
How to buy a '71-73 Mustang:
Rule #1: Assume all classic car sellers are guilty until proven innocent.
Rule #2: No classic car dealer is ever innocent; thus, they are all guilty.
Rule #3: Buy from trustworthy people: Fellow forum members. Visit 7173Mustang's For Sale forum.
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#8
A few years back my buddy took a night paint and body class at Palomar collage in San Marcos and painted his Datsun Z. I met a kid at Escondido Cruisin Grand last year and he was doing his own body work on his Maverick Grabber. I believe he said he was doing it at Palomar.
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#9
I have heard more than one person mention Palomar, I am going to check it out. I would like to do at least the body work myself, for the experience.

<img src="http://www.7173mustangs.com/gallery/1_12_09_14_10_32_45.png" />

- Nik
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#10
both water born and solvent based you do not want in your lungs or in your blood. remember there is no water based clear that will hold up to UV. If you have never messed with painting before I would not want my first job to be a complete. Good material is every expensive and you do not want to buy twice. Also with the material you will need to buy extra cause you will need to buy all reducers and hardeners how they are packaged. Example you might need 1.25 gallons of clear but you will be buying 2, a body shop can mix just what they need to spray and save some money in material costs.
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