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Our 73 Mach1
#11
Jeff73Mach1;255740 Wrote:A couple of things

What is your goal for the car? Are you looking to build a driver, or for a correct restoration?

Also, the heavily rusted area on the interior of that wheel may be a problem. It can result in a wheel that may not hold air properly. 14's are commonly available if you want to source a replacement. If your budget at this time doesn't allow that, then I would suggest that with the inside very clean that you treat the area with rust converter. If there is rust on the bead surface, the tire may not seal well.

Using a nitrogen inflation often will help, but you may also want to paint the inside of the rims or use slime to minimize leaks.


We're building a driver. That's what these things were made for in my opinion. Not to sit around and look pretty.

That rust is all gone on the wheels. They've been holding their own sitting on the shelf for 8 months with no new corrosion. They received a thorough cleaning and refinishing.

Eric Nonamaker
1973 Mach1 351C 2V
Colorado Springs, Colorado
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#12
Okay, for a driver, the simplest way to run the PCV is to vent one valve cover to a breather on the air cleaner and the other should valve cover should be equipped with a pcv valve which draws full manifold vacuum from the large port usually attached to the base of the carb. Nothing more complicated is necessary. If you don't use a breather and just use a solid cap, the engine will build excessive crankcase pressure and possibly spit out the oil dipstick.

[Image: 1_01_07_15_8_53_18.png]

"I love my Hookers!" and "Get some Strange" probably have a different connotation to non automotive enthusiasts!
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#13
Jeff73Mach1;255784 Wrote:Okay, for a driver, the simplest way to run the PCV is to vent one valve cover to a breather on the air cleaner and the other should valve cover should be equipped with a pcv valve which draws full manifold vacuum from the large port usually attached to the base of the carb. Nothing more complicated is necessary. If you don't use a breather and just use a solid cap, the engine will build excessive crankcase pressure and possibly spit out the oil dipstick.

Thanks. I've got lines running every which direction, pieces cut off, and hoses hooked up to where they shouldn't be. I've got all my pieces now for the PCV. Just trying to get everything pointed in the right direction again.

The oil cap side of the PCV is going to get routed back to the bottom of the carb tomorrow now that I have the metal tube and it's all cleaned up. Then I'm still not sure if I'm suppose to have an L shaped, F shaped, or straight nipple to go from the passenger side to the breather on the air filter. All three pieces are available within a 5 mile drive so no biggie.

The diagram for a 1973 351C 2V shows part 6767 (nipple type) but I keep getting told I need the F type elbow. I keep getting told that by folks with a 351C 4V Ram Air though. I say that because I have no idea what the second nipple of that F elbow would link up with.

My intake manifold has three hook ups on the stem located in the back. The power brake booster is going to be hooked back up there. I'm only to assume that the other two are suppose to run something on the A/C system which is present but completely disconnected.

Unless something for the emissions hooks up back there to. I haven't dove to hard in to the diagrams for the emissions or A/C system as of yet. Getting there slowly but surely.


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Eric Nonamaker
1973 Mach1 351C 2V
Colorado Springs, Colorado
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#14
So I was looking at the tires that are currently on the car. The fronts are way worse than the backs dry root wise. It's sad because the tread depth is near brand new. The fronts are 225/70/15. For some reason I though they were 205's. The back has 245/60/14's.

I was going to go 225/70/14 all around. Now I'm thinking 235/60/14 on all four. I want to keep it even all around and I want a wider tread without breaking the bank. Seems any bigger goes up significantly. I know they'll be okay in the back. Thought on any issues with rubbing in the front? Thoughts in general on a good size for highway driving and twisty West Virginia backroads?

Eric Nonamaker
1973 Mach1 351C 2V
Colorado Springs, Colorado
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#15
235's will clear without a problem, I ran them on my car with 15" wheels initially after I bought it. They handle pretty well.

[Image: 1_01_07_15_8_53_18.png]

"I love my Hookers!" and "Get some Strange" probably have a different connotation to non automotive enthusiasts!
  Reply
#16
Thanks! Like I said I want a wide tread more for touring than dragging. I don't want the wheel wells to look empty either. I'm not a fan yet of the bigger wheels with smaller sidewall profile tires on the classics yet.

Eric Nonamaker
1973 Mach1 351C 2V
Colorado Springs, Colorado
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#17
Got our new floor pans put in today. lol Atleast the ones that will let me move around inside without falling through the rusted out ones.


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Eric Nonamaker
1973 Mach1 351C 2V
Colorado Springs, Colorado
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#18
Sweet. Did I mention I love the old school chain steering wheel?

73 Grandé H Code. Headman long tube headers, T-5 Transmission, 3.70 Traclok, Lowered 1" all around, Aussie 2v heads w/ 2.19 intake, 1.71 exhaust, screw in studs, full roller cam 608/612 lift 280/281 duration LSA 112, Quick Fuel 750 CFM double pumper, AirGap intake.

- Jason


[Image: 082-hot-rod-power-tour-2017-1970-1970s.jpg]
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#19
You weren't a cool cat in the 70's unless you had a chain steering wheel, man. Actually I think the previous over had it on here as a shop steering wheel. I found the original two spoke wheel in a box in the backseat. I'm thinking of putting on a Grant steering wheel vs restoring the original for now.

Eric Nonamaker
1973 Mach1 351C 2V
Colorado Springs, Colorado
  Reply
#20
Coat em with epoxy resin and glue them down with a thickened mixture of the same and call it a day-should last 20 years or more. Will also add some heat and noise insulation and a bit of buoyancy in the event of a water landing.

Smart idea, it will seriously save you from some abrasions.

Now that I am mostly done being a smart ass for the next few minutes-are your tetanus shots up to date? You are going to get scratched and cut and if they aren't it would be a good idea to take care of that.

[Image: 1_01_07_15_8_53_18.png]

"I love my Hookers!" and "Get some Strange" probably have a different connotation to non automotive enthusiasts!
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