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Our 73 Mach1
#1
Well since we picked her up in June we've cleaned the wheels and serviced all the moving parts. Going to put a set of Cooper Cobra Radial GT's on next month. I have 14x7 wheels so I was thinking 215/70/14 all around.

We have 90% of the interior removed. Currently getting read of the surface rust. Then it'll be time to weld in new floor pans and the metal portion of the package tray.

We're trying to piece together underneath the engine compartment. The AC was completely drained and hoses disconnected. This is my last priority though. Where I am stuck right now is here...

I've got the PCV valve in the oil cap and the original rubber hose. I finally found the metal tube to connect it to the rear of the carb. Then I ran into the power brake assist being attached to where I thought the metal tube went. Should I have a T back here to connect both or am I completely wrong here?

Additionally I get two stories from people and diagrams when I look at the passenger side valve cover. I see just a 90° elbow from the valve cover going to the small filter inside the air cleaner. Then I see or hear someplace else on the '73 only it should be the F shaped elbow on the passenger side valve cover with one line going to the small filter. No guidance on the other portion of the F shaped elbow. Is it just capped off or is it suppose to go somewhere or is the L shaped elbow correct?

Look forward to posting here, sharing experiences, reading yours, and gaining a wealth of knowledge.

Here are a couple of exterior pictures shortly after we got it home.


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Eric Nonamaker
1973 Mach1 351C 2V
Colorado Springs, Colorado
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#2
I would go with 225/70/14s. 215s are a little small.

- Mike
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#3
Welcome to the forum, your car reminds me of what mine looked like when we bought it.

351w - Ford racing GT40X 178 cc aluminum heads - Ford racing(crane) 1.7 roller rockers - Comp Cams 280H magnum cam .544" / .544" lift - ARP hardware - hedman longtubes - magnaflow exhaust with X pipe - Duraspark - MSD digital 6al box - MSD TFI coil - optima red top battery - tuff stuff 140 amp alternator - weiand stealth intake  - edelbrock 1406 600 carb  - march pullies and brackets - Be cool fan controller - derale electric fan - FMX trans - motive 4.11 gears - traction lok - lakewood traction bars.                                            










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#4
mach71351c;255366 Wrote:I would go with 225/70/14s. 215s are a little small.

Do the 225's fit pretty well with no rubbing or do you have to do some spacers/hammering to make them work? The back currently has 235/60/14 so I know that area is good.

Eric Nonamaker
1973 Mach1 351C 2V
Colorado Springs, Colorado
  Reply
#5
Hey Eric!

225s on 14" rims are pizza cutters compared to some of the wheel/tire combos others are running. Big Grin

I actually have 245/60R15s up front, and 295/50R15s out back on mine. You'll be fine. thumb

I have a '71, and my engine has been heavily modified, so I can't speak to what was factory proper for your car. But typically, the PCV valve goes to a small filter attached to the air cleaner, or has multiple breathers. Vacuum for the brake booster should be routed to a 'clean' vacuum source, typically a dedicated source on the intake manifold or the base of the carb. Some of the other guys will have the right information for you on the proper vacuum & PCV routing.

Looks like it's going to be a fun project! Good luck with it and keep us posted - we love seeing these awesome cars come back together!

Eric

[Image: mach1sig2.gif]
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#6
Cool project. Glad your son wants to be involved. Growing up my dad and I always wanted to restore a Mustang together but never got the chance. He passed away back in 2010 and that's when my search started to get one and do a resto-mod of sorts just like we had planned. My daughter is excited and loves to "help out dad" in the garage.

'73 Grandé H Code. Headman long tube headers, T-5 Transmission, 3.70 Traclok, Lowered 1" all around, Aussie 2v heads w/ 2.19 intake, 1.71 exhaust, screw in studs, full roller cam 608/612 lift 280/281 duration LSA 112, Quick Fuel 750 CFM double pumper, AirGap intake.

'73 F code convertible. Bright red. Needs total restore. (IE HOT MESS)

- Jason
  Reply
#7
ejnonamaker;255400 Wrote:
mach71351c;255366 Wrote:I would go with 225/70/14s. 215s are a little small.

Do the 225's fit pretty well with no rubbing or do you have to do some spacers/hammering to make them work? The back currently has 235/60/14 so I know that area is good.

They will fit no problem.

- Mike
  Reply
#8
ejnonamaker;255353 Wrote:Well since we picked her up in June we've cleaned the wheels and serviced all the moving parts. Going to put a set of Cooper Cobra Radial GT's on next month. I have 14x7 wheels so I was thinking 215/70/14 all around.

We have 90% of the interior removed. Currently getting read of the surface rust. Then it'll be time to weld in new floor pans and the metal portion of the package tray.

We're trying to piece together underneath the engine compartment. The AC was completely drained and hoses disconnected. This is my last priority though. Where I am stuck right now is here...

I've got the PCV valve in the oil cap and the original rubber hose. I finally found the metal tube to connect it to the rear of the carb. Then I ran into the power brake assist being attached to where I thought the metal tube went. Should I have a T back here to connect both or am I completely wrong here?

Additionally I get two stories from people and diagrams when I look at the passenger side valve cover. I see just a 90° elbow from the valve cover going to the small filter inside the air cleaner. Then I see or hear someplace else on the '73 only it should be the F shaped elbow on the passenger side valve cover with one line going to the small filter. No guidance on the other portion of the F shaped elbow. Is it just capped off or is it suppose to go somewhere or is the L shaped elbow correct?

Look forward to posting here, sharing experiences, reading yours, and gaining a wealth of knowledge.

Here are a couple of exterior pictures shortly after we got it home.

Hello,
I have a very original 73 Mach 1 Q code 4 speed, 12,000 miles. I put a couple pictures under the hood so you can see how this one is. I will pull the air cleaner today and maybe get some more pictures. It is very dusty has been sitting there since 1983.
If you want specific pictures just ask.
Here are some more pictures with air cleaner moved.
David


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When a man is in the woods and talks and no women are there is he still wrong??
Tongue
David
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#9
Here are some pics from what we've done so far.

Here are some more.


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Eric Nonamaker
1973 Mach1 351C 2V
Colorado Springs, Colorado
  Reply
#10
A couple of things

What is your goal for the car? Are you looking to build a driver, or for a correct restoration?

Also, the heavily rusted area on the interior of that wheel may be a problem. It can result in a wheel that may not hold air properly. 14's are commonly available if you want to source a replacement. If your budget at this time doesn't allow that, then I would suggest that with the inside very clean that you treat the area with rust converter. If there is rust on the bead surface, the tire may not seal well.

Using a nitrogen inflation often will help, but you may also want to paint the inside of the rims or use slime to minimize leaks.

[Image: 1_01_07_15_8_53_18.png]

"I love my Hookers!" and "Get some Strange" probably have a different connotation to non automotive enthusiasts!
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