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Oil wt.
#1
What is the recommended engine oil weight to use? I am using 10-30 with break in additive but as the engine gets warmer I begin to lose oil pressure. Its almost zero when the engine is warmed. I want to fix this problem before I run it again.
thx
-jbojo

-john
(jbojo)
351C 4V cc heads, 10.5 : 1 CR, 290 Herbert cam, Flat top forged pistons, forged connecting rods, Atomic efi,
C6 with Gear Vendor overdrive, 3.89 Tru Trac, Hooker Super Comp with 2 1/2" Pypes Exhaust.        

Some Mod pictures can be seen at:

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#2
I use 10w-40 in the old cars and 10w-30 in the new, regardless 0 oil pressure with the lighter oil sure doesn't sound right. Mechanical guage?

351w - Ford racing GT40X 178 cc aluminum heads - Ford racing(crane) 1.7 roller rockers - Comp Cams 280H magnum cam .544" / .544" lift - ARP fasteners - hedman longtubes - magnaflow exhaust with X pipe -  MSD digital 6al box - MSD coil - optima red top battery - tuff stuff 140 amp alternator - ported weiand stealth intake  - edelbrock 1406 600 carb  - edelbrock rpm fuel pump - march pullies and brackets - Be cool fan controller - derale electric fan - FMX trans - motive 3.50 gears - traction lok - competition engineering subframe connectors - lakewood traction bars.                                            










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#3
Mikes73;170975 Wrote:I use 10w-40 in the old cars and 10w-30 in the new, regardless 0 oil pressure with the lighter oil sure doesn't sound right. Mechanical guage?

Yes, I have one in the engine compartment and that's how I caught it. When I was pre-lubing yesterday I was getting good oil pressure. I am waiting for the oil to cool down and I am going to use the drill to make sure there is pressure again. If so I was thinking of 40 or 50 wt for break in, thoughts?
-jbojo

Just to add, I just went out and checked it again and there was a little more pressure but not much. Checked the oil and it was really thin, like water consistency. I could see oil coming out the distributor area that normally lubes that gear and I could hear the oil draining back to the pan from the heads. The oil does not look contaminated with anything. I am using Joe Gibbs Break in oil 10-30 wt.

-john
(jbojo)
351C 4V cc heads, 10.5 : 1 CR, 290 Herbert cam, Flat top forged pistons, forged connecting rods, Atomic efi,
C6 with Gear Vendor overdrive, 3.89 Tru Trac, Hooker Super Comp with 2 1/2" Pypes Exhaust.        

Some Mod pictures can be seen at:

  Reply
#4
Does the oil smell like gas? It sure sounds like dilution.

Try some straight 30 wt.

Jeff T.

Low buck, touring style, '73 Convertible "rolling restoration", 351c, 2v heads with a shave and a haircut, Performer intake, Holley 650(ish), roller rockers, screw in studs, guideplates, stainless valves, Duraspark / Motorsports MSD, T-5 conversion. 1-1/8" front, 3/4" rear swaybars KYB shocks and some home brewed subframe connectors. Future plans; JGC steering box, Cobra brakes and... paint, interior, etc.

When I die I want to die like grandpa, peacefully in my sleep... not screaming, like his passenger.

[Image: 1_12_09_14_10_15_11.png]
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#5
I run Rotella 10w-40 oil for diesels.

Kevin

1971 Mach 1
408C Stroker
C4 w/3,000 stall
8.8" Rear w/3.73's
Disc brakes all way around.

[Image: 28ivsix.png]




                                                                                             
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#6
Id confirm that you have no metal in the oil. Seriously.
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#7
I use Valvoline 10W-30 VR-1 racing oil.
It has a high zinc and phosphorus content.
In what condition is your filter? My engine
has less than 5000 miles on it and the oil gauge
is usually at top of scale unless the engine is hot
then it drops to about 75% at idle.

mike

[Image: 1_11_11_13_11_50_27.png]
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#8
droptop73,
I tried pre-lubing the motor with a drill again and now I am getting around 25 lbs of pressure. Oil is definitely circulating through the motor. I can still hear the oil draining back from the heads to the pans but not as much now. The oil does not smell like gas so I don't think its being diluted. Also checked the radiator water to see if its contaminated. It's rust colored but I think that its because the engine sat for awhile before I tried started it. I also changed the water and will check again when I start it again.

kidwithfastback=fast.
I am going to filter the oil when I drain it. I want the oil completely cold and I am going to check the oil pressure again. If I have good pressure I will replace it with straight 40 or 50 wt, still deciding on which to use.

turtle5353,
Does the oil feel pretty thick? I opened a quart of the Joe Gibbs oil and it still feels pretty light.

Thx for all the suggestions. I regret now not running this motor on a test stand before installing it. A good lesson learned. When I get to my next project I won't make these mistakes again.

BTW, all the engine sensors indicate everything is ok. The A/F ratio is 14.7 : 1 .

Also what do you think the engine temp should be when running? I was getting around 205* and the thermostat is a 192* one. Bothe cooling fans were on.
-jbojo

goodnigh;171004 Wrote:I use Valvoline 10W-30 VR-1 racing oil.
It has a high zinc and phosphorus content.
In what condition is your filter? My engine
has less than 5000 miles on it and the oil gauge
is usually at top of scale unless the engine is hot
then it drops to about 75% at idle.

mike

The filter is new, I have the NAPA Gold one right now. I'll probably wind up replacing the oil with a straight wt. I was looking at Valvoline and called the parts house for 50 wt oil and they had the 8 qts I need. Just waiting for the oil to completely cool down to see what kind of pressures I get. What filter are you using? Just hoping I don't have a oil pump issue.
-jbojo

-john
(jbojo)
351C 4V cc heads, 10.5 : 1 CR, 290 Herbert cam, Flat top forged pistons, forged connecting rods, Atomic efi,
C6 with Gear Vendor overdrive, 3.89 Tru Trac, Hooker Super Comp with 2 1/2" Pypes Exhaust.        

Some Mod pictures can be seen at:

  Reply
#9
I don't think zero oil pressure will be solved by changing the weight of the oil. If you hear oil draining back you know some it getting up there. Is it zero only at idle or when you rev it a little too? I would verify the gauge is working correctly.

'Mike'
73 Convertible - 351C/4V CC heads/4bolt/forged flat tops/comp 270/rhodes/mallory unilite/tri-power/hookers/glasspacks/c6/3.50 limited slip/Gear Vendors/Global West sub frames, strut rods and shelby style traction bars/ Rear sway bar/tilt steering (not original)

Pics of modifications included in:
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#10
will e;171012 Wrote:I don't think zero oil pressure will be solved by changing the weight of the oil. If you hear oil draining back you know some it getting up there. Is it zero only at idle or when you rev it a little too? I would verify the gauge is working correctly.

will e,
The pressure was zero no matter how fast the drill was going. I checked a couple hours later and I was getting about 25# of pressure. I'll be going out again to check it and see what I get. I am just hoping that the oil pump has not failed or something bad like that. The sound of the oil draining back was like water, didn't sound like any viscosity to the oil. I am hoping that I won't have to pull the motor again. I don't have any coolant loss and the oil isn't milky as if water was in it so not sure what the problem is. Maybe bad oil?
-jbojo

Both the mechanical and the electrical oil gauges showed no pressure

Second update: I just went out and looked at the oil pressure and I can now get 50#'s using the drill. I can't hear the oil draining back to the oil pan from the heads anymore

-john
(jbojo)
351C 4V cc heads, 10.5 : 1 CR, 290 Herbert cam, Flat top forged pistons, forged connecting rods, Atomic efi,
C6 with Gear Vendor overdrive, 3.89 Tru Trac, Hooker Super Comp with 2 1/2" Pypes Exhaust.        

Some Mod pictures can be seen at:

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