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Oil Pan Leak
I have a small leak due to old seals on the oil pan.

My mechanic said that he could not just drop it as there's alot more in the way in getting it off the engine.

Does anyone know if there is an easy way to remove it?


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I replaced mine a couple of years ago with the engine still in the car. I had to remove the stablizer bar,disconnect the motor mounts and raise the engine a few inches. Mine was a front sump oil pan.so it can be done. I don't think it can be done with a rear sump.

drive it like you stole it
Yep, you have to raise the engine a bit and drop the sway bar. The main problem is the crossmember is welded in, unlike earlier Mustangs where it is bolted in. Just be careful, it doesn't take that long to do.

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1931 Ford Model A Station Wagon
1969 Mach 1 - 351C, TKO-600, 4WDB, R&P, A/C, Shaker, Fold Down, etc.
1972 Mach 1 - 351C, FMX, PDB, PS, A/C, Fold Down, Console
1996 Mustang Cobra Convertible - 10psi Procharger
We replaced the oil pan on my '71 351 Cleveland a while
back and only had to disconnect the engine mounts and
raise the engine a couple of inches or so. Now would be
a good time to inspect/replace the engine mounts as well.
One of mine was discovered to be broken.


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I'll speak from a 70 Mustang perspective because I just got done with that yesterday. The cars are very similar though.

You have to unbolt the crossmember (easy), disconnect starter (very easy) and disconnect the sway bar end links to rotate it up (very easy). I had about 3 inches of clearance to slide the pan back and then up. It was tight but I didn't need to raise my 302.

I went with the felpro 4 piece gasket as opposed to the 1 piece. I actually bought a 1 piece but it wasn't working out very well for me so I got the 4 piece instead.

I replaced the oil pump screen in the process as well. No leaks so far although I did snap off an oil pan bolt.

Pay attention to the torque sequence (middle to end) and the proper torque settings. I went 7 then 12 lb/ft.

If you drop the pan & frame cross-member that will be a good time to clean em up and at least paint the pan Corporate Ford Blue. Since you have it off (in a 70 at least) it's a good time to replace the sway bar end links ($15).

-Former 70 & 72 Mustang Owner.
-69 Torino GT, Formal Roof, 351W, Edelbrock 600 cfm, Edelbrock 351W Performer RPM intake, headers, AOD trans, dual flowmasters w/H pipe, Pertronix II Billet, 3.5 TRACLOC g/r, 15" Magnum 500s, 100A alt, aluminum radiator, electric fan, Pro-car seats, mini-starter...owned since Dec 13.
-70 Mach 1, 351W, Edelbrock E-Street EFI, VHX instrument cluster, Hooker headers, dual flowmasters, Pertronix II, 15" Magnum 500s, 150A alt, aluminum radiator, dual electric fans, Pro-car seats, mini-starter
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