• 0 Vote(s) - 0 Average
  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5
Oil change or not
#1
The 302 engine had a total rebuild about 3.5 years ago and I've been using Mobil 1 full syn.

I usually change the oil each spring at about 1000 miles per year.

Not that I want to be cheap, but does it really need an oil change or am I good
at least for another year 1000 miles?

Thanks

[/url][Image: mbpsrsig3_zps456db2cb.png]

[url=http://s165.photobucket.com/user/MPBsr25/media/mbpsrsig3_zps456db2cb.png.html]
  Reply
#2
Whats the color, or whats the odor like, do you have a lot of idle time on the motor? 
Is it stored inside a climate controlled garage? If it looks good and doesn't have a gassy smell to the oil run it. But when in doubt drop it, they make more.
  Reply
#3
The unseen problem with the oil is the amount of condensation and opportunity for the oil to break down as it sits.  So I usually say you should change if you have had a lot of start up and idle time over the year even though the mileage is not high,

I did learn in the engineering world that the oil formulations have changed over the years, so we are kinda stuck with more expensive oils for our older flat tappet engines.  Make sure you are using a good quality racing or high sulfur content oil to protect you cam from breakdown.

Maybe you already knew that though.

kcmash
  Reply
#4
Sulfur? I think you mean ZDDP or phosphorus in the oil is needed for our flat tappet cams.

Let me check your shorts!
http://midlifeharness.com

[Image: Flamicon2.jpg]


[Image: oldfart.png]
[+] 1 user Likes midlife's post
  Reply
#5
Christine is garage kept but not climate controlled.

I usually take her out at minimum for a 30 minute ride, at least once a month, even during the winter.

Pulled the dip stick and the oil still had that yellowish/gold color on the stick with no gas smell, but to play it safe prob better to just change it.

Thanks

[/url][Image: mbpsrsig3_zps456db2cb.png]

[url=http://s165.photobucket.com/user/MPBsr25/media/mbpsrsig3_zps456db2cb.png.html]
  Reply
#6
I would change it. As mentioned above condensation will form and breakdown the oil. Better safe than sorry.

'73 Grandé H Code. Headman long tube headers, T-5 Transmission, 3.70 Traclok, Lowered 1" all around, Aussie 2v heads w/ 2.19 intake, 1.71 exhaust, screw in studs, full roller cam 608/612 lift 280/281 duration LSA 112, Quick Fuel 750 CFM double pumper, AirGap intake.

'73 F code convertible. Bright red. Needs total restore. (IE HOT MESS)

- Jason
[+] 1 user Likes 73pony's post
  Reply
#7
(03-31-2018, 12:50 PM)kcmash Wrote: The unseen problem with the oil is the amount of condensation and opportunity for the oil to break down as it sits.  So I usually say you should change if you have had a lot of start up and idle time over the year even though the mileage is not high,

I did learn in the engineering world that the oil formulations have changed over the years, so we are kinda stuck with more expensive oils for our older flat tappet engines.  Make sure you are using a good quality racing or high sulfur content oil to protect you cam from breakdown.

Maybe you already knew that though.

kcmash

IIRC, Sulfur is added to gear oil to aid their ability to prevent wear in high psi loads faced by gears.  It is also a problem in engine oil as it promotes formation of acid when exposed to combustion byproducts.
  Reply
#8
Question; why use synthetic oil in these engine at all? When I had my engine rebuilt I was expressly told NOT to use synthetic oil, ever. Also NOT to use synthetic gear oil either.  I'm no mechanic or tech guy, but the reason given was synthetic is meant to be used in engines with tighter tolerances like modern engines. It is also an expensive product. I know many do run synthetics and there will always be pros and cons......... and heated discussions!! 
My choice has always been Castrol 10W30 conventional oil with ZDDP added and even that is not really necessary once the motor is broken in correctly, again according to the engine builder. And yes, I change it every spring, no matter what the mileage, for about 20 bucks plus a Fram filter.
  Reply
#9
Stanglover please use a different brand of oil filter, fram is at rockbottom for quality.


Attached Files
.jpg   Fram_PH8A_cortado.jpg (Size: 48.84 KB / Downloads: 127)
[+] 1 user Likes Canted 393's post
  Reply
#10
Geoff, I've heard from my engine builder FRAM oil filters to be the worst!
  Reply
Share Thread:  


Possibly Related Threads...
Thread Author Replies Views Last Post
  oil sender issue John J 6 624 07-20-2018, 02:57 PM
Last Post: John J
  Oil.... again Vinnie 31 2,579 07-20-2018, 02:53 PM
Last Post: Vinnie
  Oil sender issue John J 0 277 07-16-2018, 10:28 PM
Last Post: John J
  oil cap gasket John J 9 589 06-05-2018, 11:56 PM
Last Post: secluff
  1972 351c oil pan repair BoweP 4 1,385 01-31-2018, 04:19 PM
Last Post: Ron Tanzi
  Hot weather Oil viscosity 73pony 2 692 06-10-2017, 09:28 AM
Last Post: Don C
  Oil - How many quarts with an aftermarket pan NewAgeMuscle 5 747 03-30-2017, 04:40 PM
Last Post: EBSTANG
Wrench Pre-oil proceedure Helicopter 2 451 03-30-2017, 02:05 PM
Last Post: Jeff73Mach1



Users browsing this thread: 1 Guest(s)