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NZ Vert Rebuild
#11
Very nice!  thumb

[Image: Stang1.jpg]
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#12
Sweet,,,,,,,,,,personally, i would have put in black seats............but that's just me, nothing wrong with the white. thumb

73 ragtop, 1999 Mustang Bright Atlantic Blue Paint, Phoenix Engine 302-335HP,  Edelbrock Carb & Performer manifold; c4 with 2000 stall and shiftkit; 3:55 auburn limited slip differential, Hedman shorties; Car Chemistry Exhaust

Classic Air; Tilt Steering Wheel; 1999 Chrysler Sebring bucket Seats ; power windows;
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#13
Hi mate.
Cheers. The white seats arent my favourite either but they are what came with the car. Bit light on funds at this stage to swap them out. A black convertible thunderbird owner raves about the white seats as they stay relatively cool with the top down. I am thinking of having them professionally sprayed in a dark red (seats only not seat and quarter panels) to match the tail lights to really make the car stand out. The red replacement covers on the US mustang sites seem to be bright red (vermillion red) so will see. Just rushing to get her complied by the end of March and changes will come slowly after that!
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#14
If you don't like the white seats why not just dye them black?
My coupe came with white/blue olympic seats so I just painted them and came out fine, also freshened up the door trims
Make sure you use only the best vinyl dye SEM in Landau black which is a satin black
Also get their vinyl prep and you should use their plastic adhesion primer for the plastic parts, I used a cheaper brand to do the plastic seat backing and it doesn't stick as well
Also important you scrub clean everything prior to paint prep including the piping
Expensive stuff but would not use anything else and you can buy in NZ
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#15
(02-26-2019, 09:42 PM)OzCoupe72 Wrote: If you don't like the white seats why not just dye them black?
My coupe came with white/blue olympic seats so I just painted them and came out fine, also freshened up the door trims
Make sure you use only the best vinyl dye SEM in Landau black which is a satin black
Also get their vinyl prep and you should use their plastic adhesion primer for the plastic parts, I used a cheaper brand to do the plastic seat backing and it doesn't stick as well
Also important you scrub clean everything prior to paint prep including the piping
Expensive stuff but would not use anything else and you can buy in NZ

I have purchased the black plastic seat backs and new black standard door cards (you might call them door panels) and had the rear quarters vinyl sprayed black as well. 
I used the vinyl cleaner and have the plastic prep stuff too as I re-painted the main gauge plastic inner black too. will try a small bit of dark red fabric first like a seat cover to see if I like that otherwise they will end up black.
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#16
runninpony 
Nice looking Convertible, all black interior would look better though!

71-73 Mustangs never die, they just go faster!
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#17
So she is finally off for compliance here in NZ. Unfortunately my park brake isn't ratcheting properly. I have new cables and she won't ratchet under tension. I unbolted it (after a mission dropping the vent box out of the way to get to one bolt) and when the cable is unattached it seems to ratchet ok. Other than replacing the whole mechanism with a dynacorn one from CJ pony parts $79 USD is there any simple solution (new tension spring etc ) I can tell compliance workshop as s working handbrake is a requirement here. All vehicles earlier than 2000 have a 6 monthly warrant of fitness check. Post 2000 is annual.
[Image: IMG-20190304-084627.jpg]

[Image: IMG-20190304-074759.jpg]
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#18
Steve - Can you pull / push the cable from inside the car to prove that it is moving freely ? Could be twisted or jammed underneath. If it's ratcheting O K without the load, the problem would seem to be the cable set up. You mention new tension spring but you should be able to move the cable back & forth to mirror this action to start with. The W o F guys probably need to test it so an explanation may not satisfy them. Dig a bit deeper first.
Good work.
PKJ
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#19
(03-04-2019, 05:28 PM)6DUB606 Wrote: Steve -  Can you pull / push the cable from inside the car to prove that it is moving freely ? Could be twisted or jammed underneath.  If it's ratcheting O K without the load, the problem would seem to be the cable set up.  You mention new tension spring but you should be able to move the cable back & forth to mirror this action to start with.   The W o F guys probably need to test it so an explanation may not satisfy them.  Dig a bit deeper first.
Good work.
PKJ

The cable seemed right. I unwound the adjuster under the car out fully (the spring on thread) but couldn't pull it up enough to release the ball on the end of the cable out of the saddle on the brake mechanism until I unbolted the whole pedal mechanism.
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#20
Well I had the fail report back from the compliance workshop
Had tested all the lights on Saturday before she went to compliance Monday but might have been before I tested the washer motor.
Report says
RR brake lights and indicator not working
RF lights not working properly
Headlight aim needs adjusting
Rear brake balance needs adjusting for better performance

Not bad considering this amateur put it together with an old wiring loom out of a wrecked 73 Grandé! . Must have blown a fuse or bad earth.
Their auto sparky will take a look and they can sort the rest
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