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Non power disk brakes???
I have had four wheel manual disc brakes on my car from the time we put it together.  No it did not come that way but is the way I chose to go as Jeff eluded to by my cam/engine build choice. The brakes work extremely well. But also my car is a driver not a concourse correct trailer queen that has been restored to factory specs. So it really boils down to what you want for your car and what works best for you.
So were are you on this upgrade, change over etc?.
As I've already done this as a conversion, I found a few pictures of my firewall that shows the original M/C position  and with the cover plate removed. By the way, this plate needs to be cut to suit the opening and reinstalled as it has spacers welded in place that are necessary when putting it all back together. If it is not put in the whole bracket, booster position and even the column will be out slightly. I recommend a new rubber seal as well on the steering column. I tend to go overkill on stuff like this, so I used a sealant called Automotive Goop, which is NOT a silicone to ensure no leaks. If you have not removed the column, I strongly suggest you do, it's not hard, but extra long socket extensions are very useful!
Here are a few pictures which I hope you find useful.
They loaded in reverse order, but you get the "picture". The pedal arm shows the top original non power pin location and the new position for the booster. Sorry, but for what ever reason, I did not take a picture of the new booster in place, least ways, I can't find it.
 Also, note the distribution block. This is the non-power drum brake version and can be used as a connector for the front brakes. I used a separate rear brake adjustable valve which can be seen just to the rear, supplied with the SSBC kit I installed. This set-up give excellent control over the rear brake bias.

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Here is the Pedal difference between Manual and Power, I did the Power Disc conversion 3 week ago, I originally had 4 wheel Manual Drum.
The all Black pedal is the Power brake (the pin is lower 2.5"), the pedal with the rust is the manual (Pin is 2.5" higher), I used the same brake light switch, it worked just fine.
To convert from manual to power is not a big deal at all.

[Image: 20170407_192608.jpg]

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[Image: 2zem9nk.jpg]
1972 Mustang convertible run_horse  
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Thanks guys!! I havent worked on the car in a while. Life in general always seems to limit your time. These pics really help. Since the entire dash is alr3ady out it just makes sense to go ahead and change the pedal and put a new boot and rag joint on the column.

Is that pedal pretty easy to find used?


1972 Mach 1 351 cj 4speed

"We confide in our strength, without boasting of it; we respect that of others, without fearing it."--Thomas Jefferson
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