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non adjustable to roller rocker?
#1
well i thought i had an exhaust leak, but it turns out i got 2 loose lifters? and since theyre not adjustable im gonna need to replace and might as well go roller right? the car is a 351c with 4v heads. whats yalls recommendation? from what ive read ill need this? http://www.summitracing.com/parts/crn-52.../make/ford also what rockers do yall recommend. i see several people using harland sharps but its all foreign to me.
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#2
I use the harlan sharp ones with no issues so far.
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#3
do the harlans require the guideplate conversion kit?
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#4
slawnugget;101555 Wrote:do the harlans require the guideplate conversion kit?

I have screw in studs and guide plates on mine, but I am also running AFD heads

http://www.airflowdynamics.com.au/site_f..._heads.htm
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#5
slawnugget;101555 Wrote:do the harlans require the guideplate conversion kit?

Typically yes, or screw in studs which involves a trip to the machine shop. There are a couple of options for bolt down adjustable rocker arms that don't require machine work. Here is one:

http://www.rmcompetition.com/Rocker_Arms_.html

73 conv. 460, D0VE large valve heads, Performer RPM manifold, Voodoo 227/233 cam, Holley 950 HP carb, C6 trans, 3.25 trak-loc.
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#6
+1 on the guide plates, also I found a set of studs from another brand of car that fit perfect and gave me the added length for my roller rockers much cheaper off the shelf, and second be sure when you assemble that your push rods are the right length to center your roller on the valve stem, you dont want it rolling off the edge of the stem. I had to get .50 shorter for mine but that all goes with your cam and rocker specs. Please be aware I'm talking about a 460
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#7
I put the Ford Motorsport non-adjustable roller rockers in. I have been running them a long time with no issues.

'Mike'
73 Convertible - 351C/4V CC heads/4bolt/forged flat tops/comp 270/rhodes/mallory unilite/tri-power/hookers/glasspacks/c6/3.50 limited slip/Gear Vendors/Global West sub frames, strut rods and shelby style traction bars/ Rear sway bar/tilt steering (not original)

Pics of modifications included in:
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#8
It depends on cam specs and intended use. With a reasonable flat tappet hydraulic cam the bolt down will work IF you get pushrod length and lifter preload right. Any American made roller rocker will work for reasonable street use. One source is http://www.scorpionracingproducts.com
If you are going to a roller cam and want to maximize the benefits of going to a roller (aggressive ramps/profiles), I'd suggest converting to adjustable valve train. I'd first find out what caused the slack in the lifters. If you lost .030-.040 (normal hydraulic lifter preload) it may be the cam lobes are gone. If so, you may be looking at more than a cam, springs, rocker, pushrod change. Chuck
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#9
I'd first ask myself the question... WHY did the rockers come loose?

Is the rocker actually loose, or are the lifter/cam lobes shot on each?
Bent pushrod(s)?
Pushrod eat into the rocker, possibly due to oil starvation?

Pete - MotoArts Decals and Signs
'71 Sportsroof 351C-4V/4-speed - FINALLY under construction - no, wait, on hold again...
'90 Mustang 7-Up 5.0 ragtop, rolling beater
'66 Sunbeam Tiger Mk.IA, survivor
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#10
You can pick up one of these relatively cheap. Bring each lobe up and use it to measure the distance. Be sure to get the right length based on what you have. Great way to measure the lobe wear.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/FORD-351C-351W-A...0799106508

[Image: 2rr7aiv.png]

Just cruising along minding our own business when BAM!!! The LAWS show up.
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