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Noises while running/ fine tuning
#1
Hello everyone.

Mine now starts and runs consistently.  Woo Hoo!!  She needs coaxing when cold, but idles solid after a few minutes of warmup.  I do have some noises and adjustments to look into, so I need some help.

1) I tuned the Holley Ultra using a vacuum gage.  Should that be an iterative process as I compete the PCV system, etc?  It still smells rich to me.

2) Has anyone found a way to put the original idle boos solenoid on a Holley?  I need to kill it with a clutch dump when she is warm.

3) I have ticking sounds, like an exhaust leak.  how do you check for exhaust leaks?

4)  Power steering is in, filled, and does not leak.  It does not provide much assistance either. Do pumps go bad and cause this without leaking?

5) Tires -  Anyone go with the Goodyears, or the Firestone Wide Oval versus  the BFG Radial TA?

6)  I have a clunk from the suspension when I back off the curb into the street.  I have no clue,

I will think of more,,,,,

kcmash
[+] 1 user Likes kcmash's post
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#2
Yes, every time you change anything that changes the airflow or timing you'll likely need to adjust the carburetor. Just installing an air cleaner can change mixtures, as it changes the flow of air into the carburator. Adding a functioning PCV will usually lean it out some, unless there is a lot of fuel in the oil.
Holley used to have the brackets, I've modified the originals to fit, trimming or adding metal as needed.
Yes, power steering pumps can go bad internally. Nonfunctioning is often caused by air in the system.
That clunk usually come from an exhaust pipe moving enough to make contact with something close to it. Shock bushings and spring bushings are also high on the list, as are loose hardware.



“If you can't explain it simply, you don't understand it well enough.”
--Albert Einstein
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#3
I did crank the engine with the return dumping to waste until I got solid PS fluid.  Of course I found a leak at the High pressure hose and the steering box, so I fixed that.  I have NOT done the stop to stop bleed on it yet.  I guess that is the next step.  Ready to get to the front clip as soon as I am sure I can leave it on!

kcmash
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#4
The rich idle and "run on" after you turn the key off are symptoms of too much transition slot exposure.
 
What is the initial timing? This plays a role in establishing idle speed and ultimately t-slot exposure.

73 conv. 460, D0VE large valve heads, Performer RPM manifold, Voodoo 227/233 cam, Holley 950 HP carb, C6 trans, 3.25 trak-loc.
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#5
.
KC,
As Don C stated, adding a pcv valve will help, as it is a metered vacuum leak by design.
That should help raise the idle speed , then you should be able to get back under the transition slots.
Don't forget to re- adjust the mixture screws again.
Holley at one time offered a bracket for the anti- run on solenoid, as I have one on mine and have installed them for others.
As for the solenoid, rockauto is inexpensive to get one, or at the local scrap yard.
Also the Ford trucks with 351 W and 4vH olley (4165 ? ) have a bracket as well, not sure if it was attached to an electrical solenoid of a vacuum damper of sorts, but I have a scrap one in the garage with a bracket on it.
The solenoid is always a good idea, especially with the Holley's and a hot camshaft
I usually strive for highest vacuum when setting the idle mixture but without touching the curb idle screw.
Know where the transition slot is and don't go beyond it or you will get sore eyes.
Boilermaster
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#6
For searching for the exhaust leak, a piece of 3/16"± copper tubing curved the get around the exhaust manifold, connected to a 2 or3 foot long rubber hose that you can hold up to your ear works good.

The ticking could also be a valve lifter adjusted wrong, leaking, or with a chunk of gunk in it.



“If you can't explain it simply, you don't understand it well enough.”
--Albert Einstein
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#7
(07-03-2019, 07:43 PM)boilermaster Wrote: .
KC,
As Don C stated, adding a pcv valve will help, as it is a metered vacuum leak by design.
That should help raise the idle speed , then you should be able to get back under the transition slots.
Don't forget to re- adjust the mixture screws again.
Holley at one time offered a bracket for the anti- run on solenoid, as I have one on mine and have installed them for others.
As for the solenoid, rockauto is inexpensive to get one, or at the local scrap yard.
Also the Ford trucks with 351 W and 4vH olley (4165 ? ) have a bracket as well, not sure if it was attached to an electrical solenoid of a vacuum damper of sorts, but I have a scrap one in the garage with a bracket on it.
The solenoid is always a good idea, especially with the Holley's and a hot camshaft
I usually strive for highest vacuum when setting the idle mixture but without touching the curb idle screw.
Know where the transition slot is and don't go beyond it or you will get sore eyes.
Boilermaster
Thanks for the info.  I have an original solenoid off of the 2V carb that came factory along with a bracket, but it does not fit the Holley,  Yep, I have the high compression heads and a decent cam, so I will need some help to shut a warm engine down.  

Does Rock Auto have the solenoid and bracket for a Holley?

Last time I set the carb I went for high vacuum too.  The idle kept creeping up as did the vacuum so i had to drop the idle screw back off.  Today was the first running with the PCV system hooked up, so i need to re-calibrate.

I am thrilled that it kept cool and had no leaks!  Hopefully I can get a chance to run it tomorrow too.

kcmash
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#8
Kc,                                                                                                                                                                The Holley brackets are pn # 20-58 for 4160 carbs @ $11.14 and 20-72 universal @ $ 23.54                                  They also sell the solenoid for around $95.00.                                                                                                    Could not find the inexpensive solenoid on rock auto or at Standard ignition, that's why I suggest the bone yard.      Looking at the ford truck holley, I uses electrical solenoid and vacuum dashpot and it's offset may be different than what you need for the carb you are using.                                                                                                       Would suggest the BFG tires for looks, a decent ride and great burnouts, but if you have any real power, they are not a good traction tire.                                                                                                                                   Boilermaster
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#9
Does anyone know if that Holley bracket will hold the original Ford solenoid?

I have been planning on BFG for a long time.  Just wanted to see if there were more financially friendly options since I need financial approval.

kcmash
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#10
kcmash Wrote:Does anyone know if that Holley bracket will hold the original Ford solenoid?

I have been planning on BFG for a long time.  Just wanted to see if there were more financially friendly options since I need financial approval.

kcmash

Kcmah, it will, my solenoid is oem type.                                                                                                         Boilermaster
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