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No Power 73 Mach 1
#1
Hi guys,

The other day I started up my 73 Mach 1 like I do every couple weeks or so. I tried shutting it off, but that didn't seem to work, so I pulled the coil wire, and it eventually died. However, when I reconnected the wire, I tried restarting the car, and there wasn't any power to anything (Interior lights, head lights, etc) I checked the battery and the positive terminal was hot to the touch.

Any ideas?
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#2
Remove only your negative terminal on the battery. Either measure from the negative on the battery to body ground for voltage. Or, if you don't have a meter, use a 12V socket and bulb and do the same thing. If it lights, you have a short.

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Just cruising along minding our own business when BAM!!! The LAWS show up.
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#3
Okay, thanks! Will do this tomorrow and report back.
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#4
stangup;102623 Wrote:Okay, thanks! Will do this tomorrow and report back.
Check your fuseable links at the solenoid...they are designed to burn in two before other wires are damaged....do not replace with regular wire.
I am guessing the solenoid stuck and caused this.
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#5
I love these kinds of problems!!!

I was thinking ignition switch, as your ignition hot wire runs through the ignition switch. If you turn the key, the switch should be open, stalling the car.

Don't know how your car can keep running if that switch is working properly.

But, then you said you have no lights...I guess that mean no headlights. Headlights don't go through the ignition switch.

This is going to be a good one....are you good with a VOM?

Not to step on Mark, but measure battery voltage first, so you have a base reading. If you battery has dumped and has 0 volts, you will need to get that fixed before doing anything else.

Once you know you have voltage at the battery, measure voltage between negative on battery and a ground on the car- Engine Bolt, Frame Bolt.

If you DO have voltage, take a PICTURE of your solenoid wiring and maybe even tape/mark the wires so you can remember what wire goes where.

You can remove one wire at a time from the posts on the solenoid and recheck battery negative to car ground. When the voltage goes away, you know the wire to begin chasing.(Alternatively, you can remove ALL wires and add one at a time).

Keep us posted.

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When I drive past a herd of cows, the cows MOO at me
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#6
don29163;102640 Wrote:
stangup;102623 Wrote:Okay, thanks! Will do this tomorrow and report back.
Check your fuseable links at the solenoid...they are designed to burn in two before other wires are damaged....do not replace with regular wire.
I am guessing the solenoid stuck and caused this.

I had the same problem a few years ago and it was the fusible link. My solenoid failed again shortly thereafter.

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"I love my Hookers!" and "Get some Strange" probably have a different connotation to non automotive enthusiasts!
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#7
If you pulled the coil wire and it continued act like it was running (with no secondary electric voltage) then it sounds like you still had power on the red wire with blue stripe. This would energize the starter so that it was cranking the engine -- this likely happened until your batter ran out power, (i.e., it is similar to having your key in the ignition and keeping it turned all the way to 'start' position -- this is the only time you should expect power on red wire with blue stripe). When you say your postive post is hot - do you mean hot to touch or has power?

If it is hot to touch then you may want to have your battery checked out too (may need to recharge it).

It sounds like a sticking solenoid -- if you have a spare available you may want to replace it.

I had a similar problem but mine turned out to be a short in the red wire with blue stripe -- you may look for damaged wire insulation too. (I had neutral safety switch issues.)

1971 Mustang
Grabber Lime with black deluxe interior
302 engine with C-4 transmission and 9" rear end with 3.50 gears
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