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New sheet metal
#1
Again I have been watching a lot of body work videos, and the one thing that keeps coming up is poorly formed sheet metal. My question is this. Do the after market doors and fenders fit reasonably well on our cars? What about full or partial quarter panel replacements? I may need a new trunk lid has anybody used an aftermarket one yet? If so which brands. And then, The HOOD, I think I already asked once about after market hoods. Who makes the best one? Any input would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!! I fear body work, thats why all the questions!
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#2
All of the 71-73 sheet metal is made by Dynacorn. I was talking with Daniel Carpenter about how crappy the panels are. He said pretty much the same supplier in Taiwan makes all the repo metal.
I was an automotive product, process and tooling engineer. There are several things that make the panels not as good as OEM. They use very soft metal to produce the parts so the panels are easy to form. The issue with that is if you lean on a car with Taiwan metal it bends very easily. The tooling was originally made using wood patterns to trace the shape from. All they can do to repo is find a NOS panel and they laser scan that. A fender or quarter panel off the car is just a floppy piece of sheet metal so they have no ideal where the zero is for the part being scanned.
When you do use Taiwan metal you should strip the black e-coat off on the outside completely. The reason is the panels sit around and sometimes start to rust and the rust is under the e-coat. Not always but not worth the risk of it coming out.
The Dynacorn hoods are also very soft and usually have too much crown in the form front to back. They do not weld the hem around the outside so that you can change the arch of the hood. Some people try to shim the fender and bend it but much better to just work the hood. The way you do it is to put the hood on the floor with blocks of wood on all 4 corners. Then you cut a block for the center edge so that you can actually stand on the hood to bend in down to take some of the arch out. Do it slowly a little at a time and keep checking the fit. Once you get the arch right then you tack weld the hem and seam seal it so no rust bleeds out.
Also even though they e-coat the hoods and trunks there is not enough space between the inner and outer panels so there is no paint inside there. You can buy some cans of spay from Eastwood with long wands so you can put some protection inside.
The same goes for doors you need to seal the seams inside and out. Water goes inside the doors from rain or washing and sits in the seam and rust it.
When you do body panel replacement you need to be sure the unibody structure is in correct factory position. This is done by a frame shop that can pull the car back into position. Then you need to support the body to prevent deflection when you cut panels off. Also bracing needs to be added to prevent deflection.
When fitting panels even in the factory they do not line up. They twist, bend and hammer to fit on the assembly line.
You should never do panel replacement on a rotisserie. You can go to rotisserie for your sanding and painting but all fitting needs to be done with the car supported either on wheels or you can invest in a specific frame made to hold the car in position.
New repo sheet metal will never be a clamp it on and weld it. You have to make it fit first. Might even require you to split a new panel and then weld it back to make it fit. Watch lots of how to videos and check out builds on the forum.
If you are close to an outlet for the panels you can save some money buy going to pick them up. I am only 100 miles from NPD in Charlotte it saves a lot of shipping cost and also damage from handling. They will ship LTL, Less Than Load, that means they might load and unload the panels several times during the transport so damage happens. You can also maybe pick the up at a swap meet. Have a Mustang parts vendor bring them and you pick them up there.
BTW most of the NOS panels out there have been tossed around for so many years they are not right either. When we ran parts for service they could be rejects that were not good enough to go to the assembly plant. In other words we sent our scrap parts to be service parts. I got new Ford front fenders for my 1984 mustang and had to fix a dozen dents and low places in the new parts straight from Ford warehouse.


When a man is in the woods and talks and no women are there is he still wrong??
Tongue
David
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#3
sounds like you would be money ahead to invest in one or more parts cars to strip parts off of.

"I drank what?" - Socrates
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