Picked up new rod bolts, rings and gasket set from speed shop today. Was told new bolts are pressed in so has to go back to machine shop to press in and resize caps after pressing in bolts. Also advised to use top quality break-in oil run 1hr, change filter add 1qt run 100 miles and change to everyday oil and new filter.
If i remember correctly from messing with my 300ci I6 autozone sells a tool that remove and install press in rocker arm studs. It might work with those as well.
That is correct, anytime the rod bolts are replaced the rod should be resized. as for the break-in procedure it looks good. Maybe run break-in oil for the first oil change as well to give the zinc and phosphorous a good chance to adhere to the new components.
Low buck, touring style, '73 Convertible "rolling restoration", 351c, 2v heads with a shave and a haircut, Performer intake, Holley 650(ish), roller rockers, screw in studs, guideplates, stainless valves, Duraspark / Motorsports MSD, T-5 conversion. 1-1/8" front, 3/4" rear swaybars KYB shocks and some home brewed subframe connectors. Future plans; JGC steering box, Cobra brakes and... paint, interior, etc.
When I die I want to die like grandpa, peacefully in my sleep... not screaming, like his passenger.
10-26-2010, 04:22 PM
(This post was last modified: 10-26-2010, 04:28 PM by jorgem2.)
Follow your cams break-in procedure to the letter. Especially if its a flat tappet. Most require an imidiate startup and rev up to 2500-3000 rpms and hold it there for 20-25 minutes. then lowering rpms 500 at a time untill you return to idle.
Your car is likely to overheat during this so make sure that you set up some fans blowing an the radiator and that it is completely full of water and then get ready to add more after it starts and t-stat opens.
Use breakin oil or a zinc additive like Lucas break in additive, or comp cams, or others.
After the first 30 minutes of brak-in you should change oil and filter and add more zinc additive then run for about 100-200 miles and change again to your everyday oil which if using a flat tappet cam will still require a high zinc oil or an additive.
Best of luck...
PS. You have to resize the rods after new bolts, or If roundness has been verified on the rods and the bearings were running true, you can order new nuts only from ARP and use the existing bolts. I have read that the nuts are the weak link, not the factory bolts.