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New pistons and rings needed

The block is to the shop waiting for the new pistons cause the block needs to be oversized.
The bigger size is 101.70 mm or 4.0039". I guess the block needs to be machined 0.020" oversize so pistons should be 0.020" plus?

My question:  which brand of pistons should I buy? (engine will be more or less like stock performance).
And could I still use the rods as they are in good condition?



Mustang, beer and rock'nroll
u list 2 cars with different engines. i'll assume u are talking about the 351cj ?? the last one's i used i believe were pro-seal flat topped.
i might add that u would ck the pricing on 30 over vs 20 over. off hand i'd say the 30's are cheaper for many times u bore 30 over.
boring then engine should still be very close to same cost if not the same.
Your shop should not bore the engine until they have the pistons. Different types of pistons require different clearances. If you bore and then the pistons need less clearance you might crack skirts with too much clearance. Too little and they stick. Never bore the engine until you have the pistons you are going to use. Cast, Forged, Skirt design all change the clearances.
I will not make a suggestion have been out of shop too long to know who is good now.

When a man is in the woods and talks and no women are there is he still wrong??
The mecanic waits i bring him à piston before start to bore thé blockbuster. This is for the Mach 1 engine 4V.

Mustang, beer and rock'nroll

If you type 351C in the search you will get a whole cornucopia of results.

I’m sure someone will chime in that is familiar with the 351C 4v, and have some piston suggestions. That being said you should also get one of the old pistons from the machine shop and measure it to verify everything before you purchase new ones.
Well, you can spend a little or a lot depending on what you are wanting for power and performance.
If you are looking for a stockish engine as I was, I went with Keith Black KB148 13cc dish top Hyperutectic pistons. I actually had to do my engine twice, but that's another story! The first time the shop installed KB177 flat top and my comp ratio was about 11:1, a bit too high for our gas. The second time it dropped the ratio to just a tad under 10:1. Both these pistons are .020" higher (compression height) than the stock Ford ones so you'll end up pretty much at zero deck height after the block is trued up. You will need to take that into consideration when choosing head gaskets.
Running a 351C 4V and depending on what heads you have, you'll likely need to do some major distributor surgery to get the sweet spot of 34 -36 deg. total mechanical with an initial setting of 14-16 deg. which is what these motors love. Mine only has about 6 deg. of vacuum advance set into it and runs strong and NO spark rattle. I've posted lots on my saga of finding out how to build and curve a dizzy to get exactly what was needed for my engine. The cam I chose was a Melling MTF 2, which has just slightly more lift than the stock Ford one. It suits my need for speed and my wallet!
+1 for sure on bentworker's suggestion. Get an old piston from that engine to be sure of what you need first. It may have already been rebored. Regardless, the experts will tell you that a MAX of +.040" is as far as you can safely go on a Cleveland.

EDIT NOTE: IF you go with Hyprer pistons, the top ring will need to be gapped more than on other types, or it can break the top edge of the piston. While I don't know the exact gap required, your engine builder should, so check.
Engine is stock with original pistons, just want to install same style, oversized.
Didn't know was so hard to find the right pistons. Actually didn't went so far in a restoration.
Thanks for help guys.

Mustang, beer and rock'nroll
If you want forged (4032 alloy) pistons look at Mahle or Auto-Tech. Great pistons and rings. Wait until pistons are received to final hone the bores, with deck plates. If you want a less expensive cast piston, look at speed pro. Watch all compression distance measurements as it changes CR a lot. The stock rods should be checked straightness and pin and big end roundness and dimensions. I would suggest new bolts, or at a minimum new bolt nuts. Good luck with the build. Chuck
That's pistons were in my engine. I found two of them hit by the intake valves. I understand now why I found some pushrods bended.

[Image: IMG_20180313_205315.jpg]

[Image: IMG_20180313_205332.jpg]

Mustang, beer and rock'nroll
Have you machinist check the compression distance (from the center of the piston pin hole to the top of the piston) of the pistons and compare that to the factory compression distance. Reinstall the crank and the damaged piston and rod (with bearings), bring that cylinder to TDC and measure to see if the piston comes out of the bore. Is more than one piston showing contact with the valves? Chuck
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