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New paint- soap type
#1
Just a quick question, my car was painted and I was told that I could not wax the car for three months. That's fine, however the only car wash I use is Mothers California Gold Wash and Wax.

I believe this soap just enhances the wax that is already on the car but I am afraid that it could suffocate the new paint. Unless wax in a soap is just to fool consumers- and it doesn't really seal the paint.

Would you guys use it? (It's the only brand that will fix with my well water)
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#2
To insure you don't violate any possible warranty I wouldn't use it, why risk it? I'd use just normal car wash without the wax for the first 3 months. The paint needs to breath, just my 2 cents.

Jim

Jim

M code 71 Mach 1, 351 4V Cleveland, Ram Air (not factory), C6 Trans, 3.5 rear
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#3
I'd love to hear from some of our painters on this.

I've heard in the past that you're not supposed to wax for a month... 3 months... 6 months... and I've also heard that as soon as it's been final sanded/compounded/buffed, it's "Game On" time for wash and wax.

I suppose it could have something to do with the type of paint and technique used, which only makes sense. But again, I've heard different stories from different painters, and different stories from those stories from people having received paint jobs from different painters.

Eric

[Image: mach1sig2.gif]
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#4
I would ask the body shop on what they recommend, just to be safe.

[Image: 2zem9nk.jpg]
Iyman
1972 Mustang convertible run_horse  
Visit the Mustang Car Club of New England Facebook Page

Visit the Mustang Car Club of New England Web Page

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#5
I spray martin senour paint and we recommend no power wash for 30 days and no wax for 3 months good to go after that
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#6
I don't know anything about the product your using (could call manufacturer) but paint has to cure. Even if they baked it I would wait a couple months. At this point the new paint doesn't need wax protection.
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#7
I've painted a few cars and done plenty of color sanding and buffing. Including washing the car, I personally would do as little as possible to the paint for the first three months. Not that it needs to breathe, but it is still relatively soft(in a manner of speaking). Even washing the car has a much higher chance of getting scratches into fresh paintwork. I've left a 1/16" of clear-coat in the bottom of a mixing bucket and seen how long it takes to cure. Granted it was thicker than any paint job but it was a proof of concept. After 24 hours it is about 95% cured. Its still mildly tacky to the long term touch. It takes the next three months to cure those last few percent until it truly feels like dry plastic.

I know it's not what you want to hear, but it's what I've experienced.

Mike
__________________________________
Black 1985 GT
Yellow 1973 Mustang Mach 1
Black 2012 5.0 GT, 6-speed, Brembo brakes, 3.73's
Wimbledon White 1966 F-100 Shortbed Styleside, 390ci, Tremec 3550, FiTech EFI
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#8
I don't mind waiting. I just know my car shampoo is a mixture of "wash and wax" but i didn't know if the soap had enough wax to really coat the car like a true wax job would. I picked up soap with no wax added for my weekly details.
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#9
Elizabeth,

What's been said above holds true. My two bob's worth if i may.I coluld ramble on and get technical about the whole subject but the short story - even though the 2pak clearcoat was baked after it came off the gun,the key is to let the paint finish fully cure and harden for a couple of months or longer if desired, before waxing. There is no need to wax a new paint film per say other than to offer protection from pollution and fallout.However, a lot of sprayshops will wax a new paint job to help give an added enhansed look to the finish. After the spray job is done, leaving the car in the sun for a few days will accelerate the curing and hardening process time greatly. Full cureout should have taken place before any sanding, cutting and power polishing was done, for good gloss retention and holdout and any not wanted sinkback issues.Also, cureout times vary from paint company to company depending on the chemical composition of their products. For example, i'm using Glasurit brand at the moment, and their clears take forever to fully cure out.

With washing, use a top quality wash and wax product. Hose the car first all over well to get most dirt and grit off. Not doing that will cause scratching in the new film. Most city/town waters contain salts, minerals and chemicals and vary in hardness. Don't wash in the sun and let the water dry, spot or pool on the hot surfaces, as the residues can chemically etch into the paint film and damage the paint. WASH IN THE SHADE AND CHAMOIS OFF AS SOON AS POSSIBLE. Stick to any quality wash and wax products always.They help to keep the wax on the car in between wax jobs. Don't use detergents only as some contain phosphates and chemicals that can harm new paint films, and accelerate rust in inner panels.

After full cureout, use a top quality carnuba wax cream or paste to protect against city pollution, tree sap and bird droppings.These pollutants will chemically etch into the new paint film and cause damage as well, especially if a waterbased basecoat was used. Again, don't wax in the sun, wax in the shade, and make sure all rags used are free from any grit.Hope that helps,

Greg.Smile

(Pro Spraypainter)

whistling LORD, MR FORD - JERRY REED
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#10
Austin Vert;187027 Wrote:Elizabeth,

What's been said above holds true. My two bob's worth if i may.I coluld ramble on and get technical about the whole subject but the short story - even though the 2pak clearcoat was baked after it came off the gun,the key is to let the paint finish fully cure and harden for a couple of months or longer if desired, before waxing. There is no need to wax a new paint film per say other than to offer protection from pollution and fallout.However, a lot of sprayshops will wax a new paint job to help give an added enhansed look to the finish. After the spray job is done, leaving the car in the sun for a few days will accelerate the curing and hardening process time greatly. Full cureout should have taken place before any sanding, cutting and power polishing was done, for good gloss retention and holdout and any not wanted sinkback issues.Also, cureout times vary from paint company to company depending on the chemical composition of their products. For example, i'm using Glasurit brand at the moment, and their clears take forever to fully cure out.

With washing, use a top quality wash and wax product. Hose the car first all over well to get most dirt and grit off. Not doing that will cause scratching in the new film. Most city/town waters contain salts, minerals and chemicals and vary in hardness. Don't wash in the sun and let the water dry, spot or pool on the hot surfaces, as the residues can chemically etch into the paint film and damage the paint. WASH IN THE SHADE AND CHAMOIS OFF AS SOON AS POSSIBLE. Stick to any quality wash and wax products always.They help to keep the wax on the car in between wax jobs. Don't use detergents only as some contain phosphates and chemicals that can harm new paint films, and accelerate rust in inner panels.

After full cureout, use a top quality carnuba wax cream or paste to protect against city pollution, tree sap and bird droppings.These pollutants will chemically etch into the new paint film and cause damage as well, especially if a waterbased basecoat was used. Again, don't wax in the sun, wax in the shade, and make sure all rags used are free from any grit.Hope that helps,

Greg.Smile

(Pro Spraypainter)

Excellent advise Greg! Also during the whole process if you drop a sponge or rag, stop using it until it's thoroughly cleaned and "absolutely" free of any possible grit...I learned the hard way, just shaking it and a visual doesn't cut it.

Jim

Jim

M code 71 Mach 1, 351 4V Cleveland, Ram Air (not factory), C6 Trans, 3.5 rear
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