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New intake- need to remove distributer?
#1
I just bought an Air Gap for my 351C. Do I need to remove my distributer?
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#2
It would certainly help, but if you can work around it you don't "need" to.

Mike
__________________________________
Black 1985 GT
Yellow 1973 Mustang Mach 1
Black 2012 5.0 GT, 6-speed, Brembo brakes, 3.73's
Wimbledon White 1966 F-100 Shortbed Styleside, 390ci, Tremec 3550, FiTech EFI
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#3
Space, the final frontier.....with care it can be done.

Live, Laugh, love
ECTA, Ohio mile Landspeed record holder
C/GALT-136.36, AA/FALT 159.38 mph, New B/GALT Record 180.577mph- speed is the need !
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#4
I would remove it. The front and rear seals are very prone to leaking if the manifold isn't set down squarely. While you can slip it into position with the distributor in place, it is harder to get it on perfectly. I use threaded rod in the 4 big bolt holes when putting the manifold on to help guide it into place (then remove and use bolts) but the distributor will get in the way of doing it in this manner.

It isn't that hard to pull a distributor. If you are hesitant to do so, it is time to tackle the task and get comfortable with it.

[Image: 1_01_07_15_8_53_18.png]

"I love my Hookers!" and "Get some Strange" probably have a different connotation to non automotive enthusiasts!
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#5
Jeff73Mach1;212699 Wrote:It isn't that hard to pull a distributor. If you are hesitant to do so, it is time to tackle the task and get comfortable with it.

+1. Pulling and replacing the distributor is fairly straight forward and doesn't take long. I would do it if I were replacing my intake.

Doc

[Image: 6y14ea.jpg]

Project started 8-7-10
Completed: All new suspension, rebuilt 351C H Code bored .030 over with mild cam and intake, new 3.50 TracLok, custom exhaust system
Current "mini-project": interior upgrade Undecided
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#6
+2
I would remove it. Much less chance of the rubber seals shifting and leaking. Using the small threaded studs to help align the manifold works really well.

-john
(jbojo)
351C 4V cc heads, 10.5 : 1 CR, 290 Herbert cam, Flat top forged pistons, forged connecting rods, Atomic efi,
C6 with Gear Vendor overdrive, 3.89 Tru Trac, Hooker Super Comp with 2 1/2" Pypes Exhaust.        

Some Mod pictures can be seen at:

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#7
Yep easier to remover dizzy. Just make sure you use a sharpie and mark the distributor, where the rotor is pointing and a mark on the block. then when you put it back in you can just line up all the sharpie marks. Just make sure you don't turn the motor over while the dizzy is out. Also what Jeff said about all thread is good idea definitely helps with alignment. Also just my personal preference, I never use the rubber seals at the end of the intake. I use a nice fat bead of silicone and call it done. I have had those damn rubber seals leak more than once on me.

Kevin

1971 Mach 1
408C Stroker
C4 w/3,000 stall
8.8" Rear w/3.73's
Disc brakes all way around.

[Image: 28ivsix.png]




                                                                                             
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#8
When you go to take it out, be cautious that the oil drive doesn't start to come out with it and then drop back down into the motor. Remove it slowly.

Of course, cover or plug the hole.

'Mike'
73 Convertible - 351C/4V CC heads/4bolt/forged flat tops/comp 270/rhodes/mallory unilite/tri-power/hookers/glasspacks/c6/3.50 limited slip/Gear Vendors/Global West sub frames, strut rods and shelby style traction bars/ Rear sway bar/tilt steering (not original)

Pics of modifications included in:
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