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New fuel line after intake and carb change.
#1
I have a 351 Cleveland that was originally a 2v motor, and in an air conditioned 71' Mach 1
[Image: 339.jpg]


[Image: 338.jpg]

. I have had the motor rebuilt and added an Edelbrock performer rpm air gap manifold and a Holly Avenger carburetor. The car no longer has air conditioning. It appears to me that the original fuel line from the fuel pump is not going to work.
Have any of you had this issue? If so, what fuel line did you use to replace the original?

Thanks in advance.
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#2
I make my own steel lines to suit the position of the carburetor fuel inlet. It looks like you could adjust the line you have to get pretty close to a straight shot.


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#3
+1 I used some stainless fuel lines and a tubing bender to make my own. I used a wire coat hanger to make the template first.

73 Grandé H Code. Headman long tube headers, T-5 Transmission, 3.70 Traclok, Lowered 1" all around, Aussie 2v heads w/ 2.19 intake, 1.71 exhaust, screw in studs, full roller cam 608/612 lift 280/281 duration LSA 112, Quick Fuel 750 CFM double pumper, AirGap intake.

- Jason


[Image: 082-hot-rod-power-tour-2017-1970-1970s.jpg]
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#4
You could find fuel bowls, or a carb, that supports 60s, early 70s plumbing. Spendy, but looks right. Chuck
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#5
Thanks to all. I purchased a tubing bender and some tubing and fabricated my own.
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#6
Here's the one I fabricated for my 351C 4V with Holley 670 SA carb.
Sorry about the poor quality
[Image: IMG-0979.jpg]

[Image: IMG-0980-2.jpg]
I added a section of ethanol proof rubber to take up the vibration. Note proper fuel line clamps, no gear clamps ever.

[Image: IMG-0983.jpg]

Geoff.
 I learn something new every day!
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#7
I use a double flaring tool to make a small ridge around the end of the tube to help keep the rubber hose from pulling off, as it loosens from age (due to the rubber squeezing out from under the clamp and heat/cool cycles) and from shrinking in the winter.

I agree with not using gear clamps, either use the correct style that Stanglover showed in his post, or the spring type. The spring type seems to compensate for extreme temperature changes better, and are my preference. They're available for everything from fuel lines to radiator hoses. Just make sure they're the heavy duty ones, I've seen some light ones that are for vacuum hoses, only.
https://www.amazon.com/Hillman-Group-597...2272&psc=1



“If you can't explain it simply, you don't understand it well enough.”
--Albert Einstein
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#8
(12-07-2019, 02:29 PM)Don C Wrote: I use a double flaring tool to make a small ridge around the end of the tube to help keep the rubber hose from pulling off, as it loosens from age (due to the rubber squeezing out from under the clamp and heat/cool cycles) and from shrinking in the winter.

I agree with not using gear clamps, either use the correct style that Stanglover showed in his post, or the spring type. The spring type seems to compensate for extreme temperature changes better, and are my preference. They're available for everything from fuel lines to radiator hoses. Just make sure they're the heavy duty ones, I've seen some light ones that are for vacuum hoses, only.
https://www.amazon.com/Hillman-Group-597...2272&psc=1
 Don, on the tube shown, I did the same thing where the rubber tube is. Good point to mention. The tube diameter is 3/8" Forgot to mention that too.
Geoff.

Geoff.
 I learn something new every day!
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