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New cam for my 408.
#1
Hey guys. Im looking at pulling my motor out of my car tomorrow and I am going to go through it again and reseal a few things and also put in a new cam and lifters. After all the lifter issues I have been having and also having trouble getting my carb dialed in, I have decided to ditch it all and start again. I did some more research on my original cam and have found that a lot of people were having trouble with getting their carbs dialed in with this Comp cam. My old cam is a Comp cams big mutha thumpr series hydraulic roller. Lift is .580/.564  duration at .050 is 243/257. lobe separation is 107.  From what I have read the valve overlap is too much to get a good signal for the carb. Makes it difficult to dial in and is rough on valvetrain parts. But gives it that crazy rough idle sound.  Well I spoke with comp and explained to them what I had and what I wanted to do with the car and they recommended a magnum series hydraulic roller cam. Lift is .612/.612 duration at .050 is 244/244. and lobe separation is 110. They say this will be more street friendly even though it has more lift. It will also idle better than the thumpr. Be easier to tune and sure actually make more power. So what do you guys think??  I know everyone has their own opinions on cams but just thought I would ask. This car will probably never see the strip. Its a weekend cruiser and ice-cream wagon LOL! 
Heres some other specs on the motor.
408 scat stroker kit
4" stroke 4.030 bore 6"rods
AFD 4vs aluminum heads
ported polished
long tube headers
850 quick fuel carb
msd 6al ignition and billet dizzy
edelbrok torque II intake
Harland sharp 1.73 roller rockers
C4 auto trans with 2800-3000 stall converter.
373 gears 26" tall tire.

Let me know what you guys think??
Kevin

1971 Mach 1
408C Stroker
C4 w/3,000 stall
8.8" Rear w/3.73's
Disc brakes all way around.

[Image: 28ivsix.png]




                                                                                             
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#2
Sounds like a monster!  I was wondering if you were going to stick with your roller... everything. thumb
Eric

[Image: mach1sig2.gif]
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#3
I don't remember the specs for the rest of the engine so I can't suggest anything other than get multiple recommendations. In my opinion the larger the company the worse the recommendations are. Trying to use a 107 LSA on street 408C is a real bad idea. Who recommended that cam? If you have OEM 4V heads you will need 8-10 degrees more duration on the exhaust than the intake. The best recommendations come from engine builders that specialize in Ford engines. I can recommend Lykins Motorsports, near Louisville, KY. http://www.lykinsmotorsports.com Brent, the owner will likely answer the phone. Let us know what you decide on.

Chuck

Edit: Sorry I didn't read you full signature data.
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#4
I too am a believer in people who specialize in camshafts and valvetrain. Off the shelf camshafts rarely optimize a combination of parts, especially ones where a Cleveland engine is concerned. My go-to company is http://www.flowtechinduction.com/ford-2/. I have used them with several of my unique builds and couldn't be more satisfied. The owner is a long time and well respected camshaft designer for many of the top NMRA racers. I started talking with him about different LSAs and Cleveland specifics and he quickly debunked many myths and preconceptions that I had brought to the table with my internet research. He really knows his stuff.
Mike
__________________________________
Black 1985 GT
Yellow 1973 Mustang Mach 1
Black 2012 5.0 GT, 6-speed, Brembo brakes, 3.73's
Wimbledon White 1966 F-100 Shortbed Styleside, 390ci, Tremec 3550, FiTech EFI
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#5
(05-18-2017, 01:25 PM)turtle5353 Wrote: Hey guys. Im looking at pulling my motor out of my car tomorrow and I am going to go through it again and reseal a few things and also put in a new cam and lifters. After all the lifter issues I have been having and also having trouble getting my carb dialed in, I have decided to ditch it all and start again. I did some more research on my original cam and have found that a lot of people were having trouble with getting their carbs dialed in with this Comp cam. My old cam is a Comp cams big mutha thumpr series hydraulic roller. Lift is .580/.564  duration at .050 is 243/257. lobe separation is 107.  From what I have read the valve overlap is too much to get a good signal for the carb. Makes it difficult to dial in and is rough on valvetrain parts. But gives it that crazy rough idle sound.  Well I spoke with comp and explained to them what I had and what I wanted to do with the car and they recommended a magnum series hydraulic roller cam. Lift is .612/.612 duration at .050 is 244/244. and lobe separation is 110. They say this will be more street friendly even though it has more lift. It will also idle better than the thumpr. Be easier to tune and sure actually make more power. So what do you guys think??  I know everyone has their own opinions on cams but just thought I would ask. This car will probably never see the strip. Its a weekend cruiser and ice-cream wagon LOL! 
Heres some other specs on the motor.
408 scat stroker kit
4" stroke 4.030 bore 6"rods
AFD 4vs aluminum heads
ported polished
long tube headers
850 quick fuel carb
msd 6al ignition and billet dizzy
edelbrok torque II intake
Harland sharp 1.73 roller rockers
C4 auto trans with 2800-3000 stall converter.
373 gears 26" tall tire.

Let me know what you guys think??
Kevin,
My Comp Cams hydraulic roller camshaft's lift is .580/.600, duration .230/.236 with lobe separation @ 110.  It ran great for over 5,000 miles, just the 850 carb was too rich.  I did buy the Quick Fuel 750 and will find out soon how that works out.  While you have the engine out you outta think about having the block machined out for the one-piece rear main seal.  It was only $150. and with no oil slinger on our stroker cranks, it made sense to me.  $150 is cheap, pulling an engine to fix a leaking RMS isn't.  Here's some info: http://351c.net/board/index.php?/topic/4...main-seal/ 

[Image: 20170405_150454.jpg]


The FoMoCo 1-1/4" npt threaded freeze plugs were also only $150 and added what I believe to be cheap insurance.  $150 is cheap, pulling an engine to fix a leaking plug isn't.


[Image: 20170504_163826.jpg]
Don't be afraid to try something new. Remember, amateurs built the Ark...Professionals built the Titanic! thumb

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#6
If you are going roller do not use the comp roller lifters. Have read many stories lately of issues with comp roller lifters. Morel is usually the lifter that is recommended.
73 conv. 460, D0VE large valve heads, Performer RPM manifold, Voodoo 227/233 cam, Holley 950 HP carb, C6 trans, 3.25 trak-loc.
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#7
...another option are the Lunati lifters (#72335-16) We had no issues with these lifters.


[Image: 774.jpg]
Don't be afraid to try something new. Remember, amateurs built the Ark...Professionals built the Titanic! thumb

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#8
Thanks for all the replies fellas.

Eric, I hope it runs well!! Big Grin

Chuck, The 107 lobe was recommended by the idiot that built my heads, Tim Barnett. Then I had all the troubles with everything in the heads. The cam is the last thing left that he recommended. So I am starting over again. I listed my engine specs at the end of my first post. I have a set of aluminum AFD 4vs heads.

MeZapU, I will check out flowtech and see what they offer. Thanks.

Eric, I was following your thread on your motor. Your definitely doing some nice upgrades. At this point I really don't want to tear the motor completely down. Im just gonna swap the cam and go from there. Im sure I will have the motor out again in the near future! Haha  Im getting pretty good at it! Can have it out in hour and half max.

Tommy,
I originally had the comp hydraulic roller rockers, had 3 collapse in a row and sent them all back to comp..... They are supposed to be refunding me but my machine shop is still fighting with them for the last 6-7 months. The comp lifters are absolute garbage now. I ordered a new set of morels and they just showed up yesterday! They look really nice! We will see how they hold up.
Kevin

1971 Mach 1
408C Stroker
C4 w/3,000 stall
8.8" Rear w/3.73's
Disc brakes all way around.

[Image: 28ivsix.png]




                                                                                             
  Reply
#9
Eric, word on the street is Morel makes those for Lunati.......... they look nice!
Also make them for Howards, PBM and a few others.
Kevin

1971 Mach 1
408C Stroker
C4 w/3,000 stall
8.8" Rear w/3.73's
Disc brakes all way around.

[Image: 28ivsix.png]




                                                                                             
  Reply
#10
(05-19-2017, 06:46 AM)turtle5353 Wrote: Thanks for all the replies fellas.

Eric, I hope it runs well!! Big Grin

Chuck, The 107 lobe was recommended by the idiot that built my heads, Tim Barnett. Then I had all the troubles with everything in the heads. The cam is the last thing left that he recommended. So I am starting over again. I listed my engine specs at the end of my first post. I have a set of aluminum AFD 4vs heads.

MeZapU, I will check out flowtech and see what they offer. Thanks.

Eric, I was following your thread on your motor. Your definitely doing some nice upgrades. At this point I really don't want to tear the motor completely down. Im just gonna swap the cam and go from there. Im sure I will have the motor out again in the near future! Haha  Im getting pretty good at it! Can have it out in hour and half max.

Tommy,
I originally had the comp hydraulic roller rockers, had 3 collapse in a row and sent them all back to comp..... They are supposed to be refunding me but my machine shop is still fighting with them for the last 6-7 months. The comp lifters are absolute garbage now. I ordered a new set of morels and they just showed up yesterday! They look really nice! We will see how they hold up.
I hope yours works out well for you this time too!  I know we've both been down this road a few times.

Wow!... 1 1/2 hours  I could have you drive from western PA to eastern PA, pull my engine and I think you might beat my mechanic!   Shootself
Don't be afraid to try something new. Remember, amateurs built the Ark...Professionals built the Titanic! thumb

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