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Neutral Safety Switch
#11
(07-02-2018, 08:27 AM)SteveO_71 Wrote: It might be good to have the adjustment procedure added as part of all the documentation in this post. Then someone can just bookmark this post and have it all in one spot.

A PDF from the 1973 Shop Manual is already posted on the site... https://www.7173mustangs.com/thread-c6-t...ral+saftey

Here it is again.....


Attached Files
.pdf   Shop Manual Volume 1 - Part 17-02 Shift Control Linkage.pdf (Size: 2.99 MB / Downloads: 6)
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#12
(07-01-2018, 06:08 PM)rackerm Wrote: Did you adjust/Calabrate the NSS using a pin in the hole? I can post the full procedure if needed.

Yea, I even found a # 43 drill bit to make sure. I figure it is not an adjustment in the switch, since it works as it is supposed to as far as starting goes.

Got this from Stangnet
----------------------------------------------

Ready? straight from the factory manual

1 Remove the trans linkage rod from the tranmission downshift lever

2 Remove the transmission downshift outer lever retaining nut and the lever.

3 Remove the two retaining bolts

4 Disconnect the two electrical connections, then remove the switch.

5 Install new switch with the bolts

6 With the transmission manual lever in neutral, rotate the switch and install a #43 drill bit into the gauge pin hole. The bit should go in the switch 31/64 in order to make sure the adjustment is correctly made. I wrapped the drill with tape when I did mine, made it easy to know how far it was in.

7 Tighten the attaching bolts and remove the drill

8 Install outer downshift lever and attaching nut. Install the downshift linkage rod to the downshift lever. Note on some years the rod may be a cable.

73 ragtop, 1999 Mustang Bright Atlantic Blue Paint, Phoenix Engine 302-335HP,  Edelbrock Carb & Performer manifold; c4 with 2000 stall and shiftkit; 3:55 auburn limited slip differential, Hedman shorties; Car Chemistry Exhaust

Classic Air; Tilt Steering Wheel; 1999 Chrysler Sebring bucket Seats ; power windows;
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#13
With the transmission in reverse, check the continuity beteen the two backup light terminals. If the reading is close to 0.0 ohms the switch is OK, if not, the switch is bad. As has been stated on here many times, new does not mean good.



“If you can't explain it simply, you don't understand it well enough.”
--Albert Einstein
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#14
(07-02-2018, 06:29 PM)Don C Wrote: As has been stated on here many times, new does not mean good.

Bravo I believe that the older one gets, the better one gets as well! 


Oh...you're talking about car parts, eh?  Nevermind...

Let me check your shorts!
http://midlifeharness.com

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#15
(07-02-2018, 06:29 PM)Don C Wrote: With the transmission in reverse, check the continuity beteen the two backup light terminals.

Which color wires from the switch should I check continuity for when in R ?  I assume the other 2 must drive the starter circuit ?

73 ragtop, 1999 Mustang Bright Atlantic Blue Paint, Phoenix Engine 302-335HP,  Edelbrock Carb & Performer manifold; c4 with 2000 stall and shiftkit; 3:55 auburn limited slip differential, Hedman shorties; Car Chemistry Exhaust

Classic Air; Tilt Steering Wheel; 1999 Chrysler Sebring bucket Seats ; power windows;
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#16
(07-02-2018, 08:33 PM)mudbilly Wrote:
(07-02-2018, 06:29 PM)Don C Wrote: With the transmission in reverse, check the continuity beteen the two backup light terminals.

Which color wires from the switch should I check continuity for when in R ?  I assume the other 2 must drive the starter circuit ?

There should be a black/red and a white/purple wire.

Let me check your shorts!
http://midlifeharness.com

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#17
There was continuity across the white/purple & black red when I put the shifter in R, so the switch was good, (thankfully)

But I didn't have power to the White/Purple feeding into the connector with the key on. Although I could get the backups to light by putting 12v to the black/pink on that side of the connector.

Didn't want to go chasing wires, and since I have been running wires all over the engine bay, I was able to easily tap into a switched 12v that I had run for my headlight running lights. Spliced that to the connector white/purple going into the switch and Voila, I can finally see what is behind me when I back up at night. thumb

Thankyouyellow  ALL

73 ragtop, 1999 Mustang Bright Atlantic Blue Paint, Phoenix Engine 302-335HP,  Edelbrock Carb & Performer manifold; c4 with 2000 stall and shiftkit; 3:55 auburn limited slip differential, Hedman shorties; Car Chemistry Exhaust

Classic Air; Tilt Steering Wheel; 1999 Chrysler Sebring bucket Seats ; power windows;
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#18
(07-03-2018, 02:07 PM)mudbilly Wrote: There was continuity across the white/purple & black red when I put the shifter in R, so the switch was good, (thankfully)

But I didn't have power to the White/Purple feeding into the connector with the key on. Although I could get the backups to light by putting 12v to the black/pink on that side of the connector.

Didn't want to go chasing wires, and since I have been running wires all over the engine bay, I was able to easily tap into a switched 12v that I had run for my headlight running lights. Spliced that to the connector white/purple going into the switch and Voila, I can finally see what is behind me when I back up at night. thumb

Thankyouyellow  ALL
Power for that white/purple wire comes from the fuse box, top left.  It also powers the factory radio plug and turn signal flasher can.  I wonder if your turn signals don't work...if not, then the fuse is likely the suspect.  If they do, then something is catty-whompus* with the white/purple wire running through the underdash harness and the headlight harness.

*A highly technical electrical term

Let me check your shorts!
http://midlifeharness.com

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#19
Midlife, you would slap me silly if you ever got to see what I have done to the wiring in my car. When something doesn't work, or i want to add something, I just bully my way through it and run new wires.

I have always hot and switched hot wires running everywhere. I can pretty much get power anywhere I want it. It is fugly under and behind the dash. But the turn signals, emergency, and I think everything else now works. I think the reverse lamps were the last hurdle.

Have multimeter will travel. Wrench

73 ragtop, 1999 Mustang Bright Atlantic Blue Paint, Phoenix Engine 302-335HP,  Edelbrock Carb & Performer manifold; c4 with 2000 stall and shiftkit; 3:55 auburn limited slip differential, Hedman shorties; Car Chemistry Exhaust

Classic Air; Tilt Steering Wheel; 1999 Chrysler Sebring bucket Seats ; power windows;
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