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Neutral Safety Switch
#1
I needed a new Neutral safety switch and not learning from a million previous mistakes, didn't bother to see what the plug(s) looked like on the end before buying a new one. Angry

I get it yesterday and went to install it today. Easy to remove the old switch, but it has 2 plugs on it and the new one only has 1 plug. Looking at different versions online I can find one with 2 plugs, but it appears that they only have 2 wires per plug. I assume 2 for the safety circuit & 2 for the revers lights. My switch has a 4 wire plug and a 2 wire plug. Chin

Can any one shed any light on this conundrum ? 

[Image: P1010001.jpg]



I did take the switch apart just to learn what it looked like inside.

[Image: P1010002.jpg]

73 ragtop, 1999 Mustang Bright Atlantic Blue Paint, Phoenix Engine 302-335HP,  Edelbrock Carb & Performer manifold; c4 with 2000 stall and shiftkit; 3:55 auburn limited slip differential, Hedman shorties; Car Chemistry Exhaust

Classic Air; Tilt Steering Wheel; 1999 Chrysler Sebring bucket Seats ; power windows;
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#2
There are two different switches.

C9ZZ-7A247-B is a single four plug Neutral Safety Switch for a C4 or C6 is the same for cars built after 12/15/1966-1969

D2ZP-7A247-AA, BA or D2ZZ-7A247-C Neutral Safety Switch has a two plug and a four plug and is for Mustangs/Cougars produced AFTER December 1, 1971

1973 H Code Convertible - Medium Copper Metallic - June 8, 1973, Built Ford Marketing Sales Vehicle
[Image: DSC_0266xsm.jpg]
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#3
The four pin plug is your standard NSS/BU switch; the blue 2 pin plug is for the seat belt reminder system.

Let me check your shorts!
http://midlifeharness.com

[Image: Flamicon2.jpg]


[Image: oldfart.png]
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#4
(06-30-2018, 08:33 PM)midlife Wrote: The four pin plug is your standard NSS/BU switch; the blue 2 pin plug is for the seat belt reminder system.
Thanks

Cool, since I don't have the seat belt reminder functioning, I can just use the new switch. thumb

How does the seat belt circuit work ? Reminder light on when you shift into gear and then off when you latch the seat belt ?

73 ragtop, 1999 Mustang Bright Atlantic Blue Paint, Phoenix Engine 302-335HP,  Edelbrock Carb & Performer manifold; c4 with 2000 stall and shiftkit; 3:55 auburn limited slip differential, Hedman shorties; Car Chemistry Exhaust

Classic Air; Tilt Steering Wheel; 1999 Chrysler Sebring bucket Seats ; power windows;
  Reply
#5
(06-30-2018, 08:45 PM)mudbilly Wrote:
(06-30-2018, 08:33 PM)midlife Wrote: The four pin plug is your standard NSS/BU switch; the blue 2 pin plug is for the seat belt reminder system.
Thanks

Cool, since I don't have the seat belt reminder functioning, I can just use the new switch. thumb

How does the seat belt circuit work ? Reminder light on when you shift into gear and then off when you latch the seat belt ?

Yes. It completes a ground connection thru the seatbelt retractors. There is also passenger seat sensor under the seat that triggers the reminder when the passenger seat has weight on it when in gear, and don't forget there is a relay buzzer as well.
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#6
(06-30-2018, 07:40 PM)mudbilly Wrote: I needed a new Neutral safety switch and not learning from a million previous mistakes, didn't bother to see what the plug(s) looked like on the end before buying a new one. Angry

I get it yesterday and went to install it today. Easy to remove the old switch, but it has 2 plugs on it and the new one only has 1 plug. Looking at different versions online I can find one with 2 plugs, but it appears that they only have 2 wires per plug. I assume 2 for the safety circuit & 2 for the revers lights. My switch has a 4 wire plug and a 2 wire plug. Chin

Can any one shed any light on this conundrum ? 

[Image: P1010001.jpg]



I did take the switch apart just to learn what it looked like inside.

[Image: P1010002.jpg]

Can you post a photo of the other side of the switch apart? Going to attempt a repair of mine for reverse lights, and want to see what I am in for
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#7
It was relatively easy to take apart. I had to drill out these 2 swages and used a tiny flat screw driver to pry up the Circuit Board. The copper rods that look like fuses are spring loaded and makes the connection between the wire harness and the switch location.

[Image: drilled.jpg]

You'd have to drill and tap these in order to put it back together again.

Here is the opposite side. Really nothing there, this is the side you see when locking at the transmission.

[Image: P1010001_1.jpg]

Drilled out an pried open

[Image: P1010003.jpg]

Close up of drilled pad.
[Image: P1010002_1.jpg]


Circuit Board inside, you can see the copper strip that makes the connection. There was a flat precut gasket all around the border but that pretty much fell apart when I opened it up.

[Image: P1010002_2.jpg]

I'm thinking that if I'd clean these pads that the connections would work again, But that is just a guess, I didn't try to see if there was copper underneath. I'll check hese out later today when I get back out to the garage.

[Image: Capture.jpg]


The inside is full of grease.

[Image: P1010003_1.jpg]

73 ragtop, 1999 Mustang Bright Atlantic Blue Paint, Phoenix Engine 302-335HP,  Edelbrock Carb & Performer manifold; c4 with 2000 stall and shiftkit; 3:55 auburn limited slip differential, Hedman shorties; Car Chemistry Exhaust

Classic Air; Tilt Steering Wheel; 1999 Chrysler Sebring bucket Seats ; power windows;
  Reply
#8
Got the new switch in and it works as it should. Start in Park & Neutral, no go in gears.  Of course I only tried it a couple times, as long as it doesn't let me stranded somewhere.

But I still do not have back up lights.

73 ragtop, 1999 Mustang Bright Atlantic Blue Paint, Phoenix Engine 302-335HP,  Edelbrock Carb & Performer manifold; c4 with 2000 stall and shiftkit; 3:55 auburn limited slip differential, Hedman shorties; Car Chemistry Exhaust

Classic Air; Tilt Steering Wheel; 1999 Chrysler Sebring bucket Seats ; power windows;
  Reply
#9
(07-01-2018, 05:35 PM)mudbilly Wrote: Got the new switch in and it works as it should. Start in Park & Neutral, no go in gears.  Of course I only tried it a couple times, as long as it doesn't let me stranded somewhere.

But I still do not have back up lights.

Did you adjust/Calabrate the NSS using a pin in the hole? I can post the full procedure if needed.

1973 H Code Convertible - Medium Copper Metallic - June 8, 1973, Built Ford Marketing Sales Vehicle
[Image: DSC_0266xsm.jpg]
[Image: satellite.png] Proud Space Junk Award Winner!












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#10
It might be good to have the adjustment procedure added as part of all the documentation in this post. Then someone can just bookmark this post and have it all in one spot.
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