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Need tips from welding experts
#1
Hey guys, I am going to be welding a competition engineering sump onto a new stock style gas tank with a lincoln 140 mig welder. Are there any tricks to doing it or is it just like welding regular sheet metal?
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#2
I can't help you much! We just got a Miller Mig and I'm still watching the instructional video...LOL! My Dad can well pretty good though, so I'm safe for now!
[Image: 1gq8uo.png]
1971 Mach 1 - 306cid/C4 Bright Yellow
1972 Coupe - 306cid/C4 Gold Glow (in restoration phase)
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#3
You'll probably want to tig weld it. Better heat control and less porosity. IMHO
Jeff T.

Low buck, touring style, '73 Convertible "rolling restoration", 351c, 2v heads with a shave and a haircut, Performer intake, Holley 650(ish), roller rockers, screw in studs, guideplates, stainless valves, Duraspark / Motorsports MSD, T-5 conversion. 1-1/8" front, 3/4" rear swaybars KYB shocks and some home brewed subframe connectors. Future plans; JGC steering box, Cobra brakes and... paint, interior, etc.

When I die I want to die like grandpa, peacefully in my sleep... not screaming, like his passenger.

[Image: 1_12_09_14_10_15_11.png]
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#4
Tig would be the best but you could probably use mig. I would test the heat on similar metal. I assume your cutting the hole in the tank slightly smaller than the sump so that you have double thickness of metal to weld to. Not edge to edge. I would tack it in several places. Middle,corners. Good tacks. If they stick up hit with grinder. I would start maybe the middle bottom tack and go to the right corner stop. then top middle tack and go to the left corner and so on. Staggered pattern to keep the heat down. MB I just looked at mine. With the ribs in the fuel tank may make it tough. A flat surface would be much easier.
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#5
(08-02-2010, 07:24 PM)machman_73 Wrote: Tig would be the best but you could probably use mig. I would test the heat on similar metal. I assume your cutting the hole in the tank slightly smaller than the sump so that you have double thickness of metal to weld to. Not edge to edge. I would tack it in several places. Middle,corners. Good tacks. If they stick up hit with grinder. I would start maybe the middle bottom tack and go to the right corner stop. then top middle tack and go to the left corner and so on. Staggered pattern to keep the heat down. MB I just looked at mine. With the ribs in the fuel tank may make it tough. A flat surface would be much easier.

The way I've seen it done is to drill several holes in the tank with a holesaw and trim the sump to fit the tank. http://www.hotrod.com/howto/70438_gas_ta...to_10.html
I'm thinking of just doing everything up to tacking it up, then having someone weld it on with a TIG. I'm going to call a local shop to get a price on having it done. Thanks
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#6
(08-03-2010, 04:42 PM)downwardspiral Wrote:
(08-02-2010, 07:24 PM)machman_73 Wrote: Tig would be the best but you could probably use mig. I would test the heat on similar metal. I assume your cutting the hole in the tank slightly smaller than the sump so that you have double thickness of metal to weld to. Not edge to edge. I would tack it in several places. Middle,corners. Good tacks. If they stick up hit with grinder. I would start maybe the middle bottom tack and go to the right corner stop. then top middle tack and go to the left corner and so on. Staggered pattern to keep the heat down. MB I just looked at mine. With the ribs in the fuel tank may make it tough. A flat surface would be much easier.

The way I've seen it done is to drill several holes in the tank with a holesaw and trim the sump to fit the tank. http://www.hotrod.com/howto/70438_gas_ta...to_10.html
I'm thinking of just doing everything up to tacking it up, then having someone weld it on with a TIG. I'm going to call a local shop to get a price on having it done. Thanks
That would be the best bet. Checked out some of that link. Looked like some good info. machman.
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#7
Your mig should be fine .The first rule of welding is {practice practice practice} Like machman says try your hand on similar gauged steel.When you get a good setting tack it real good and only do small welds do not try to weld it all at once.You can use a wet rag to help cool the steel quicker.And again I agree with machman to cut the hole in the tank a little smaller the extra thickness will help alot.
Eric


[Image: a58hgh.jpg]
DRIVE IT DON'T STORE IT!
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#8
Is the tank galvanized? If so, you have to remove the galvanizing from the area to be welded.
[Image: 4zw1hv.png]
Dave

1931 Ford Model A Station Wagon
1969 Mach 1 - 351C, TKO-600, 4WDB, R&P, A/C, Shaker, Fold Down, etc.
1972 Mach 1 - 351C, FMX, PDB, PS, A/C, Fold Down, Console
1996 Mustang Cobra Convertible - 10psi Procharger
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#9
(08-09-2010, 12:07 AM)69 Rustang Wrote: Is the tank galvanized? If so, you have to remove the galvanizing from the area to be welded.

Very good point there--If you dont you will have all kinds of splatter and possibly a huge headache--ask me how I know Dodgy
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#10
One thing that I need to know from the welding expert was to know more on the operating modes and their characteristic into the part of welding. It could be great to know the classification of all operating modes, just like for the plasma welding. I think that it was a good challenge to have more scrapped welding.
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