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need help
#1
i have a 71 with no gauges .all lights when i turn on the key the altnater light and oil light come on but not the temp.or brake light to show thay work so my question is do the oil and temp light come on at any time to run test and show thay work ? i hope i make my self clear if not let me know thanks norm



if someone with a 71 with no tack car can see if the brake and temp light comes on at anytime when you start the car please
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#2
I believe they should, as well as the brake light.

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#3
Do you have the right sensors in? The Temp light indicators uses switch type while gauges use the resistance type and they both look the same; Here is the NAPA one that you should have in the car.

http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/Catalo...0163100553

-john
(jbojo)
351C 4V cc heads, 10.5 : 1 CR, 290 Herbert cam, Flat top forged pistons, forged connecting rods, Atomic efi,
C6 with Gear Vendor overdrive, 3.89 Tru Trac, Hooker Super Comp with 2 1/2" Pypes Exhaust.        

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#4
i cant rember if the lights came on at any point other then when there is a failure (temp or brake) i have checked the 194 bulbs and they are good and the printed circuit on the board from the plug to the bulb is good thank you
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#5
For lights they use switch type sensors while gauges use resistance type sensors. It is important to have the right one in to get accurate indications. For the Temp switch sensor type it will show an open until the coolant temp reaches 230* F. When the coolant temp reaches the design temp the switch will close and apply a ground to one side of the light the other will have the voltage the lamp needs and completes the circuit and the indicator lights.

The gauge type sensor varies the resistance of the circuit as the coolant temp changes so that's why you see the gauge needle move as the motor warms up.

I believe that if you take the connector at the temp sensor and hook a ground to it the light will come on. You can also put a ohm meter to ground and the other lead to the sensor post and it should show an open. This is why the light does not come on at KO. If you want to do further testing take the sensor off and heat the plug end until 250* F is reached with a pencil torch and do the ohm meter test on a table. You should see a short as the switch is now made. I say 250* because these switches are available for 230 and 250 set points +/- 10% and not sure which one you have..

For the brake the proportional valve should have equal pressure on both sides of it for the front and rear brakes. If the internal seals go bad there is bleed by and the brake pressures have a pressure imbalance and the plunger inside the valve moves from the center position to the side that has the lessor pressure and makes the connection and the light comes on. I would not expect this to come on at KO either.

Newer cars have a indicator test path at KO so that you can tell the bulbs are still good, not for our years though.

-john
(jbojo)
351C 4V cc heads, 10.5 : 1 CR, 290 Herbert cam, Flat top forged pistons, forged connecting rods, Atomic efi,
C6 with Gear Vendor overdrive, 3.89 Tru Trac, Hooker Super Comp with 2 1/2" Pypes Exhaust.        

Some Mod pictures can be seen at:

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#6
jbojo;248696 Wrote:For lights they use switch type sensors while gauges use resistance type sensors. It is important to have the right one in to get accurate indications. For the Temp switch sensor type it will show an open until the coolant temp reaches 230* F. When the coolant temp reaches the design temp the switch will close and apply a ground to one side of the light the other will have the voltage the lamp needs and completes the circuit and the indicator lights.

The gauge type sensor varies the resistance of the circuit as the coolant temp changes so that's why you see the gauge needle move as the motor warms up.

I believe that if you take the connector at the temp sensor and hook a ground to it the light will come on. You can also put a ohm meter to ground and the other lead to the sensor post and it should show an open. This is why the light does not come on at KO. If you want to do further testing take the sensor off and heat the plug end until 250* F is reached with a pencil torch and do the ohm meter test on a table. You should see a short as the switch is now made. I say 250* because these switches are available for 230 and 250 set points +/- 10% and not sure which one you have..

For the brake the proportional valve should have equal pressure on both sides of it for the front and rear brakes. If the internal seals go bad there is bleed by and the brake pressures have a pressure imbalance and the plunger inside the valve moves from the center position to the side that has the lessor pressure and makes the connection and the light comes on. I would not expect this to come on at KO either.

Newer cars have a indicator test path at KO so that you can tell the bulbs are still good, not for our years though.

i do thank you for your input and time /help
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