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Name that wire
#1
Does anybody know where the large black wire hanging by the steering box shown in photo in the link below goes? pic belongs to firefighter 1816. Hopefully he won't mind me posting it and thank you to him. Thanks in advance.


http://s1127.photobucket.com/albums/l624...1_0193.jpg

351w - Ford racing GT40X 178 cc aluminum heads - Ford racing(crane) 1.7 roller rockers - Comp Cams 280H magnum cam .544" / .544" lift - ARP fasteners - hedman longtubes - magnaflow exhaust with X pipe -  MSD digital 6al box - MSD coil - optima red top battery - tuff stuff 140 amp alternator - ported weiand stealth intake  - edelbrock 1406 600 carb  - march pullies and brackets - Be cool fan controller - derale electric fan - FMX trans - motive 4.11 gears - traction lok - competition engineering subframe connectors - lakewood traction bars.                                            










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#2
That routes around to the starter solenoid @ the battery + side. It's the accessory feed wire for power windows, power top, various accessories that demand more current. It should have a 3 hole female bullet connector under the left kick panel.
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#3
Cool thanks, I am trying to get my dashlights and turn signals working and Im trying to narrow down all possibilties.

351w - Ford racing GT40X 178 cc aluminum heads - Ford racing(crane) 1.7 roller rockers - Comp Cams 280H magnum cam .544" / .544" lift - ARP fasteners - hedman longtubes - magnaflow exhaust with X pipe -  MSD digital 6al box - MSD coil - optima red top battery - tuff stuff 140 amp alternator - ported weiand stealth intake  - edelbrock 1406 600 carb  - march pullies and brackets - Be cool fan controller - derale electric fan - FMX trans - motive 4.11 gears - traction lok - competition engineering subframe connectors - lakewood traction bars.                                            










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#4
Dashlights are fed power from the headlight switch (Light blue-Red #19) directly off the headlight switch, then to the fusebox (short, 3 amp fuse) and the Turn Signals are fed thru the accessory feed of the ignition switch (Black-Light Green #297). This also feeds the windshield wipers. Power from #297 goes thru the Acc fuse then becomes wire #296 (White-Purple) to the flasher unit, then it becomes wire #44 (Light Blue) then to the turn signal switch in the steering column.

Do your emergency flashers work? Do you have +12 volts at the black-light green side of the turn signal flasher?
I'd suspect for the dash lights a poor connection at the fuse box or bad headlight switch.

For the turn signals, I'd suspect the flasher unit then the turn signal switch, although I wouldn't rule out the ignition switch.

Look at the top of the main page of the website and you see a "Data" tab. Under it are PDF's of the wiring diagrams of the cars. That's what I've been reverencing for the above wire numbers and colors. If you can read a street map, you probably can read the wiring diagrams. If not, don't worry. Check for the presence of +12 volts at the above points and let us know if the other accessories work OK, then we can troubleshoot from there.

Do you have a volt meter or a test light?? You'll need one or preferably both for this. More tools, Yeah!
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#5
Thank you for the in depth and very informative response, I really appreciate your time. I will check out everything you mentioned on wednesday. I cleaned up all of the connections at the fusebox and replaced all of the fuses with new ones and there was no change. The headlight switch I got off of a parts car that sat for many years so really dont know if it is working 100%, the headlights, taillights, tag light and all running lights are working though. The headlights will go bright/dim but no indicator light on the instrument panel. No horn, lighter, turn signals, blower fan, trunk light or dashlights work at this time.

Thanks again for you time.

351w - Ford racing GT40X 178 cc aluminum heads - Ford racing(crane) 1.7 roller rockers - Comp Cams 280H magnum cam .544" / .544" lift - ARP fasteners - hedman longtubes - magnaflow exhaust with X pipe -  MSD digital 6al box - MSD coil - optima red top battery - tuff stuff 140 amp alternator - ported weiand stealth intake  - edelbrock 1406 600 carb  - march pullies and brackets - Be cool fan controller - derale electric fan - FMX trans - motive 4.11 gears - traction lok - competition engineering subframe connectors - lakewood traction bars.                                            










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#6
Mikes73;81491 Wrote:Thank you for the in depth and very informative response, I really appreciate your time. I will check out everything you mentioned on wednesday. I cleaned up all of the connections at the fusebox and replaced all of the fuses with new ones and there was no change. The headlight switch I got off of a parts car that sat for many years so really dont know if it is working 100%, the headlights, taillights, tag light and all running lights are working though. The headlights will go bright/dim but no indicator light on the instrument panel. No horn, lighter, turn signals, blower fan, trunk light or dashlights work at this time.

Thanks again for you time.
Horn is powered directly from the fuse box, tied together with the lighter (lower most left hand fuse). The blower fan is on its own circuit (uppermost right fuse). The horn routes through the turn signal switch, so I'd be suspicious there, but since the lighter doesn't work, I'd place my bet on the fuse box. Trunk light is tied to the courtesy lights, lowermost right fuse.

Let me check your shorts!
http://midlifeharness.com

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#7
Just went out and checked all the fuse locations with a digital multimeter, all fuses/ terminals show around 6.80ish volts, except fuse #3 which is reading around 3 volts with key in on position. Battery show 12.85 volts. Right now I only have the battery hooked up with the large yellow wire straight to battery positive, large heavy guage wire from battery negative to chassis gound, small black& white wire to ground also. Currently the car has no engine, trans, starter relay or regulator hooked up. I am just trying to figure out whats what with the cars electrical system before dropping the engine and trans in. Thoughts and thanks again for your time :-}

351w - Ford racing GT40X 178 cc aluminum heads - Ford racing(crane) 1.7 roller rockers - Comp Cams 280H magnum cam .544" / .544" lift - ARP fasteners - hedman longtubes - magnaflow exhaust with X pipe -  MSD digital 6al box - MSD coil - optima red top battery - tuff stuff 140 amp alternator - ported weiand stealth intake  - edelbrock 1406 600 carb  - march pullies and brackets - Be cool fan controller - derale electric fan - FMX trans - motive 4.11 gears - traction lok - competition engineering subframe connectors - lakewood traction bars.                                            










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#8
Mikes73;81528 Wrote:Just went out and checked all the fuse locations with a digital multimeter, all fuses/ terminals show around 6.80ish volts, except fuse #3 which is reading around 3 volts with key in on position. Battery show 12.85 volts. Right now I only have the battery hooked up with the large yellow wire straight to battery positive, large heavy guage wire from battery negative to chassis gound, small black& white wire to ground also. Currently the car has no engine, trans, starter relay or regulator hooked up. I am just trying to figure out whats what with the cars electrical system before dropping the engine and trans in. Thoughts and thanks again for your time :-}

Mike
If you're seeing 6.8 volts, you're seeing the middle of a resistance feed. On the small black&white wire, what size ring terminal is on the end of it? I'm looking at the wiring diagrams and I don't see a black&white wire that would be near the starter relay. There is a black & yellow power feed wire that should be connected to 12 +.
Fuse #3 showing lower voltage is the dash lights thru the dimmer switch, therefore it's a resistor and you should see less than full circuit voltage unless turned full right to where the courtesy lights come on.
Curtis
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#9
Mikes73;81528 Wrote:Just went out and checked all the fuse locations with a digital multimeter, all fuses/ terminals show around 6.80ish volts, except fuse #3 which is reading around 3 volts with key in on position. Battery show 12.85 volts. Right now I only have the battery hooked up with the large yellow wire straight to battery positive, large heavy guage wire from battery negative to chassis gound, small black& white wire to ground also. Currently the car has no engine, trans, starter relay or regulator hooked up. I am just trying to figure out whats what with the cars electrical system before dropping the engine and trans in. Thoughts and thanks again for your time :-}
The center taps on the bottom are battery power; the center taps on the top of the fuse box is ACC power. If these are not reading 12 Volts, you're losing voltage somewhere between the battery and the fuse box, and that's not good at all. Check for corrosion at the solenoid switch for your main harness power lead. Another idea is to disconnect the headlight harness from the main harness (that's at the fuse box) and measure the voltage on the headlight harness (largest pin): that's battery power. If not 12V, the problem is in your headlight harness. If that is 12V, then the problem is probably at the ignition switch or the main splice that takes the battery power from the headlight harness connector and distributes it to the headlight switch, ignition switch, and fuse box. I have never seen that OEM splice fail, however.

Let me check your shorts!
http://midlifeharness.com

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[Image: oldfart.png]
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#10
Okay cleaned up the ground wire connection and it is now getting 12 volts to the fuse box, the 2 smaller fuses are not getting any voltage readings at all. The dimmer function on the headlight switch is working on the 1 working interior light I have by the ac controls. Still no horn, turn signals, blower fan or instrument panel lights. I will keep trouble shooting til I figure it out. Couldnt find a black/yellow wire anywhere, where does it come through the firewall at? you guys are the best!

Man the previous owners sure left my head spinning, here is a pic of a couple more unhooked connectors. Guesses?

http://s59.photobucket.com/albums/g292/m...62CA3D.jpg

351w - Ford racing GT40X 178 cc aluminum heads - Ford racing(crane) 1.7 roller rockers - Comp Cams 280H magnum cam .544" / .544" lift - ARP fasteners - hedman longtubes - magnaflow exhaust with X pipe -  MSD digital 6al box - MSD coil - optima red top battery - tuff stuff 140 amp alternator - ported weiand stealth intake  - edelbrock 1406 600 carb  - march pullies and brackets - Be cool fan controller - derale electric fan - FMX trans - motive 4.11 gears - traction lok - competition engineering subframe connectors - lakewood traction bars.                                            










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