• 1 Vote(s) - 5 Average
  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5
My FMX to T5 Conversion Thread
#1
Starting my T5 conversion thread this may help someone down the road.

I got a T5 off ebay described as "T5 out of a 89 5.0 Fox body Mustang"
$300 delivered from IL to CA (87.lbs)

Ebay is is a gamble for sure so do your research and ask questions before
bidding! Seller stated it was out of a wrecked 89 Fox Body he bought for
the interior and the trans had no issues according to the owner.


[Image: 1zvwoqv.jpg]


I could tell from the photos and the case # that it was a 94 WC T5. There
was no tag ID so it has been worked on and you can see the steel front
bearing retainer.

After taking delivery I confirmed the 94 T5 WC. I then measured the input
shaft length from the case and it was 7.2 in which is the earlier input shaft
for a fox body.

I was planning a bearing and Syncro refresh for this lump but after
inspection I think I will install and run it the way it is. maybe I got
lucky again? I put it in all gears effortlessly and it spins VERY smoothly
so I will take a chance and save the $300 for the rebuild kit for now.

Lucky? Well idunno it was delivered when I was at work and my wife was
home "WTH is THAT?" Angry

I'll make a list with prices for all the other bits I collect for you future swappers.

Paul
  Reply
#2
In my experience, never trust a used T-5 unless you get a guarantee. I've rebuilt dozens of these. I would say that 100% of the time I've ever run across one with a steel bearing retainer, they have not been shimmed /installed correctly. Usually they are too tight out of the box so people sometimes just remove the shims altogether which makes the trans loose and sloppy. Incorrect fluids installed can ruin one in short order as well. The worst ones to work on are ones that someone was already inside of. A row through the gears is a poor indicator of a T-5's state of effectiveness. The tailshaft must be removed, as well as the top cover to inspect the synchronizer blocker rings and the clutching teeth on the gears.

This is an article I wrote a few years ago. It should tell you a few things to look for if you decide to crack it open.

http://www.mustangandfords.com/how-to/dr...intenance/

A good T-5 is a commodity and a good one usually fetches around $550-$600 around these parts. I could sell them all day long for that price if I could find them any more to work on.

Maybe I'm just a naysayer but I hope you get lucky and it ends up being a good one.

Mike
__________________________________
Black 1985 GT
Yellow 1973 Mustang Mach 1
Black 2012 5.0 GT, 6-speed, Brembo brakes, 3.73's
Wimbledon White 1966 F-100 Shortbed Styleside, 390ci, Tremec 3550, FiTech EFI
  Reply
#3
Mike I agree 100%!

You should plan on doing a complete overhaul of any used transmission you pick up period!

I'm going to try this trans the way it is and see how it shifts and sounds I may get lucky
or it may come back out the same day I put it in for a complete overhaul.

Thanks for your thoughts.

BTW Nice Article! congrats I didn't know you were published well done sir!

Paul
  Reply
#4
Very cool, I did the exact same swap maybe two months ago. Just curious, what starter did you use? I only ask because it took me about a week and four different starters to find the right one.
  Reply
#5
I am still gathering parts.

I will use the starter MDL recommends.

Paul
  Reply
#6
MeZapU;243526 Wrote:In my experience, never trust a used T-5 unless you get a guarantee. I've rebuilt dozens of these. I would say that 100% of the time I've ever run across one with a steel bearing retainer, they have not been shimmed /installed correctly. Usually they are too tight out of the box so people sometimes just remove the shims altogether which makes the trans loose and sloppy. Incorrect fluids installed can ruin one in short order as well. The worst ones to work on are ones that someone was already inside of. A row through the gears is a poor indicator of a T-5's state of effectiveness. The tailshaft must be removed, as well as the top cover to inspect the synchronizer blocker rings and the clutching teeth on the gears.

This is an article I wrote a few years ago. It should tell you a few things to look for if you decide to crack it open.

http://www.mustangandfords.com/how-to/dr...intenance/

A good T-5 is a commodity and a good one usually fetches around $550-$600 around these parts. I could sell them all day long for that price if I could find them any more to work on.

Maybe I'm just a naysayer but I hope you get lucky and it ends up being a good one.

I bought my 73 mach 1 Q code with a T-5 manual about two months ago figuring out after the test drive the stick was really sloppy but shifted well in and out of the gears. What is your advise on fixing it or living with how sloppy it is even in gear?

Thanks
  Reply
#7
I am considering this conversion as well. I was planning on doing it a little further down the road but I happen to come along a good T-5 for cheap. By buddy ditched his 2000 Mustang V-6 trying to avoid a deer and they totaled the car. He bought it back to sell the parts off as the entire passenger side got peeled open like a tin can. Car only had 57K on it. My questions here are this...

It is for a 99-04 according to part number 1352-260. It there a better range of years to use one from when doing this conversion?
Is the T-5 from a V-6 car able to handle the power? 351c- 2v with headers, intake, 4bbl carb, Cam (TBD) or should I look for one from a 5.0?

He will sell it to me cheap. I have driven this car in the last year and the trans was perfect. Thoughts? Advice?
  Reply
#8
Bizkit73

There are a couple bushings in the shifter that could be warn.
The half ball one on the shifter stick that allows it to pivot
and one in the shift rail that the end of the stick plugs into
it's like a "cup".

You can PM MeZapU he is the authority on the T5

73 Pony

I believe the 96+ T5 uses a integral bell (T56?) that will not bolt up to the 5.0 pattern.

http://www.mustangandfords.com/news/mump...nsmission/

87-93 T5 is good and also 94-95 but has input shaft length +abt an inch.

If you run a 94-95 T5 you need a 94-95 bell to match or change the input shaft
to the shorter 87-93 length for a 87-93 bell.

I have a 94 T5 with the shorter 87-93 input installed in it by the PO.

I'm staying away from the V6 bells as I've read of people having issues
with the starter location. I'm no expert but I need to get this swap
done quickly and don't want to fool around with the starter.

Good Luck
Paul
  Reply
#9
Thanks for the info. I think I am going to pass on his trans for the reasons you mentioned above plus I did read that starting in 99 they did not include provisions for gear driven speedo.
  Reply
#10
How difficult is it to go from a C6 to T5. I assume like in your case, a clutch system is needed, what about the shifter and all that stuff. Does the shifter aligns with the tunel hole in our cars or some kind of adapter is needed?

1971 M-code Mach 1

        [Image: 20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg]

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump
4-wheel disc brakes
  Reply
Share Thread:  


Possibly Related Threads...
Thread Author Replies Views Last Post
  FMX / Kickdown return spring? Bentworker 4 334 10-03-2018, 11:30 AM
Last Post: Fabrice
  FMX to C4 Automatic Transmission fangstang 7 427 09-17-2018, 12:44 AM
Last Post: Studdley
  Efi conversion Cainsable 6 575 09-15-2018, 10:56 AM
Last Post: fangstang
  Anyone have an FMX and converter out of the car for some measurements? Bentworker 9 573 08-04-2018, 04:43 AM
Last Post: TommyK
  FMX Fluid Inlet and Outlet Location VasiliBrown 2 450 07-12-2018, 08:04 AM
Last Post: Don C
  Fmx shift shaft seal replacement Tucaz520 11 1,467 06-29-2018, 05:13 AM
Last Post: summerboy
  FMX Seal Change Mac 0 290 06-25-2018, 11:50 AM
Last Post: Mac
  Can FMX be removed from car without dismounting exhaust? Spechti 4 551 05-11-2018, 11:12 AM
Last Post: Spechti



Users browsing this thread: 1 Guest(s)