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My 71mach M code
#1
  • Big plans for my fairly rust free platform but it’s to using fresh straight steel for my inner rockers with a filler that is only to double the thickness and on top of that I’m putting a uni strut to run torque box to torque box. Figure that will help the tin man frame adder thing most of you had already used. Time to clean and coat with I’m using the international house brand P.O.R. Saving a dime here and there. So many hours work, for a bunch of car parts is nuts lol. I’d show my mostly rust free doghouse but it’s a shame being cut off but I got new shock tower assemblies...[Image: 3-FCB9617-CB75-46-A1-8-E2-C-D8762-EEF30-EC.jpg]
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[Image: CE8611-DC-373-F-42-FB-A58-F-D4925232-E42-C.jpg]
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#2
Looks pretty swell as you would imagine this is the step before tinkering with my very own inner rocker to sandwich behind. as it forced its way into the work queue.(sandwiched itself in there figuratively as of yet.)[Image: 904-AA6-BA-A1-AF-4419-BD08-03-BC82-CD096-D.jpg]

[Image: 3-A4-EB5-CB-4-C70-423-D-8232-59-F1-B37-EBD11.jpg]

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#3
Lots of work there to do.
I do hope you have the body supported to hold the chassis in correct plane before welding anything back.
Also the cowl is gone for sure that is what causes the floors to rot cowl leak. Will be around the hole for the heater box.
The chassis dimensions are on the forum do a search. You can measure and set to correct dimensions. Too late now but it is usually a good idea to take the car to a frame shop before you start and have the chassis pulled back to spec before starting. That way doors, fenders, hood and trunk will fit much better.
Keep posting your progress.


When a man is in the woods and talks and no women are there is he still wrong??
Tongue
David
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#4
(07-07-2019, 09:34 AM)Carolina_Mountain_Mustangs Wrote: Lots of work there to do.
I do hope you have the body supported to hold the chassis in correct plane before welding anything back.
Also the cowl is gone for sure that is what causes the floors to rot cowl leak. Will be around the hole for the heater box.
The chassis dimensions are on the forum do a search. You can measure and set to correct dimensions. Too late now but it is usually a good idea to take the car to a frame shop before you start and have the chassis pulled back to spec before starting. That way doors, fenders, hood and trunk will fit much better.
Keep posting your progress.
  a lot of kinks in the thick metal from p/o collision, car is, was pretty twisted but is getting cut out of its bind, I’m periodically making sure it’s remaining level,it’s welded to the ground lol. Just the rocker was pulled away from center but is remaining level after cutting. Before I started cutting I found the bottom of the rocker was 55” and the top was 55.5” right under Door Jamb. Not sure how I’m going to pull it back in. Might just reset the Jamb on rocker?  I’d have to dig in the shed for all the new stuff cowl and all lol getting closer to needing too. yippie kai yay. I have the rod and custom front member which is sweet, he had sent the dimensions in plain ol’ inches lol.
Wink
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#5
[Image: 0-F07466-C-4081-4-D4-B-B641-3793-FFDC89-CA.jpg]

[Image: 01848-E4-A-08-E4-42-CE-B13-B-0-B596-BA42-FBA.jpg]I’m happy with the rust removal on the inside of the door post, I also got in my nos passenger outer rocker which sure beats that twisted one. Now time for P.O.R Smile
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#6
Down to the bare bone of the outer door jamb.  I started with the B pillar because compared to the Windshield posts and door hinge supports of the A I thought getting closer to rust free would help push me, no joke. LOL[Image: 9-D41962-C-BB3-A-4887-B492-FB5-D38627-E0-E.jpg]
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#7
I said I was going to beef up the inner and here it goes onto new 14ga steel by a unistrut. Also dismantling the whole sports roof only because shown reinforcement goes well under the roof rain rail reinforcement... eh cheaper than dipping the car I guess.[Image: 58-E50276-D94-A-4926-8-FE5-6987073-D6-DCA.jpg]

[Image: 1-A592227-039-E-46-E0-AF41-1-A0-BC9-DD344-C.jpg]
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